Rodeo Days

Rodeo Days

Online Exhibit

Springdale’s first rodeo was held in September 1926 at the local ball park. Two Oklahomans organized the event which featured twenty performers and various livestock. Cold weather led to a low turnout and the show lost money. People may also have stayed away because of their unfamiliarity with rodeo, described by the local newspaper as a “most unusual” type of entertainment.

The notion of holding another rodeo in Springdale started with Paul Bond and T. W. “Bill” Kelley, two Oklahoma construction workers who were in town on a remodeling job. The men, both rodeo promoters on the side, approached their boss, Walter Watkins of Welch’s Grape Juice Company, about staging a rodeo. Watkins passed the idea on to Thurman “Shorty” Parsons and Dempsey Letsch, owners of the Farmer’s Livestock Sales Barn on east Emma Avenue. With their support and that of the Clarence E. Beely American Legion post, the rodeo was on!

All of this happened in 1945 at the tail end of World War II, when patriotism was high and victory was in sight. The good folks of Springdale were ready to celebrate. It’s no wonder they chose the Independence Day holiday to stage the rodeo. Springdale had a long tradition of marking the Fourth of July with elaborate parades, picnics, races, ball games, band concerts, and speeches.

Organizers knew that they needed paying spectators in order to repay the loans necessary to bring lights, bleachers, performers, and stock to the empty lot next to Parsons and Letsch’s stockyard. Watkins organized a “goodwill caravan” to promote the rodeo. Members of the Springdale Riding Club and “Doc” Boone’s Skunk Holler Hillbilly Band hit the road, bringing horses, fancy riding gear, bluegrass, and comedy to the region’s towns. At each stop they’d perform music and boost the rodeo.

The promotion worked and tickets were sold for the three-day event. But on July 1 heavy rains fell and the rodeo’s first day was cancelled. Over the next two days good-sized crowds came to watch performers such as bronc stomper Sampson Sullivan of Oklahoma and local roper Glenn “Pup” Harp compete for $25 war bonds. Tragedy struck on the final night of the show. The wood bleachers collapsed, causing minor injuries to many spectators and severe injuries to a few. But despite bad weather and a terrible accident, the rodeo was a modest success.

Improvements were necessary for the 1946 rodeo, now dubbed the “Rodeo of the Ozarks.” Sturdy, permanent bleachers were built and lights installed for nighttime performances. The Legion constructed box seats and the Chamber of Commerce provided financial support for advertising and prizes. Once again a rodeo caravan rode forth to spread the word. Best of all, the Rodeo Cowboys Association sanctioned the event, making it more desirable for performers to compete. The rodeo was a rousing success.

The following year the newly formed Springdale Benevolent Amusement Association bought the rodeo grounds and took over management of the rodeo. Over the years the rodeo has grown and attracted numerous visitors and top-quality performers to Parsons Stadium. These days cowboys and cowgirls compete for over $100,000 in prizes, crowds line Emma Avenue to watch the parades, and thousands of people make their way to Springdale to participate in the excitement and drama of the rodeo.

Rodeo’s Beginnings

Rodeo’s beginnings stretch back to the early 1700s when Spanish missions dotted what eventually became the American West. Back then vaqueros, Spanish cattlemen, used such skills as riding, roping, branding, and herding in daily ranch life. As time went on these early cowboys’ style of dress, equipment, and ranching traditions were adopted and adapted by newcomers settling the open range.

After the Civil War cattle herds were increased to meet the demands of a growing country. Twice a year cowboys rounded up their free-ranging herds and drove them to market in Kansas City or Fort Worth, the end of the line for some railroads. After these long cattle drives cowboys held casual competitions to discover the best roper or rider.

By the late 1800s cattle drives were becoming a thing of the past. Barbed wire crisscrossed the range and ever-expanding railroads brought cattle cars to all points west. With the dwindling need for ranch hands and the homesteading of the plains, cowboys were at a loss on how to make a living. Enter Buffalo Bill Cody and the Wild West Show!

Designed to captivate and thrill audiences, the Wild West shows of the late 19th and early 20th centuries featured cowboys and Indians, bucking broncos, snorting bulls, and the like.The pageantry of the performers’ parade into the arena was followed by competitions of fancy riding, rope tricks, and other feats of showmanship.

During this time cowboys still held informal competitions at stock-horse shows and other venues, but now they performed in front of a paying audience. When Wild West shows fell victim to high production costs, cowboy competitions gained in popularity, often becoming the annual highlight of many a frontier town. Entry fees were added to prize purses, encouraging ropers and riders to compete for a little extra cash. As the sport grew, performers were able to earn a living on the rodeo circuit.

Rodeo soon professionalized itself. In 1929 the Rodeo Association of America was formed to set uniform competition rules. In the mid-1930s another organization was started by a group of cowboys angry about cheating rodeo promoters, poorly advertised shows, and unfair judging. Their efforts made a difference and the group became the Rodeo Cowboys Association in 1945. The modern era of rodeo had begun.

Springdale’s first rodeo was held in September 1926 at the local ball park. Two Oklahomans organized the event which featured twenty performers and various livestock. Cold weather led to a low turnout and the show lost money. People may also have stayed away because of their unfamiliarity with rodeo, described by the local newspaper as a “most unusual” type of entertainment.

The notion of holding another rodeo in Springdale started with Paul Bond and T. W. “Bill” Kelley, two Oklahoma construction workers who were in town on a remodeling job. The men, both rodeo promoters on the side, approached their boss, Walter Watkins of Welch’s Grape Juice Company, about staging a rodeo. Watkins passed the idea on to Thurman “Shorty” Parsons and Dempsey Letsch, owners of the Farmer’s Livestock Sales Barn on east Emma Avenue. With their support and that of the Clarence E. Beely American Legion post, the rodeo was on!

All of this happened in 1945 at the tail end of World War II, when patriotism was high and victory was in sight. The good folks of Springdale were ready to celebrate. It’s no wonder they chose the Independence Day holiday to stage the rodeo. Springdale had a long tradition of marking the Fourth of July with elaborate parades, picnics, races, ball games, band concerts, and speeches.

Organizers knew that they needed paying spectators in order to repay the loans necessary to bring lights, bleachers, performers, and stock to the empty lot next to Parsons and Letsch’s stockyard. Watkins organized a “goodwill caravan” to promote the rodeo. Members of the Springdale Riding Club and “Doc” Boone’s Skunk Holler Hillbilly Band hit the road, bringing horses, fancy riding gear, bluegrass, and comedy to the region’s towns. At each stop they’d perform music and boost the rodeo.

The promotion worked and tickets were sold for the three-day event. But on July 1 heavy rains fell and the rodeo’s first day was cancelled. Over the next two days good-sized crowds came to watch performers such as bronc stomper Sampson Sullivan of Oklahoma and local roper Glenn “Pup” Harp compete for $25 war bonds. Tragedy struck on the final night of the show. The wood bleachers collapsed, causing minor injuries to many spectators and severe injuries to a few. But despite bad weather and a terrible accident, the rodeo was a modest success.

Improvements were necessary for the 1946 rodeo, now dubbed the “Rodeo of the Ozarks.” Sturdy, permanent bleachers were built and lights installed for nighttime performances. The Legion constructed box seats and the Chamber of Commerce provided financial support for advertising and prizes. Once again a rodeo caravan rode forth to spread the word. Best of all, the Rodeo Cowboys Association sanctioned the event, making it more desirable for performers to compete. The rodeo was a rousing success.

The following year the newly formed Springdale Benevolent Amusement Association bought the rodeo grounds and took over management of the rodeo. Over the years the rodeo has grown and attracted numerous visitors and top-quality performers to Parsons Stadium. These days cowboys and cowgirls compete for over $100,000 in prizes, crowds line Emma Avenue to watch the parades, and thousands of people make their way to Springdale to participate in the excitement and drama of the rodeo.

Rodeo’s Beginnings

Rodeo’s beginnings stretch back to the early 1700s when Spanish missions dotted what eventually became the American West. Back then vaqueros, Spanish cattlemen, used such skills as riding, roping, branding, and herding in daily ranch life. As time went on these early cowboys’ style of dress, equipment, and ranching traditions were adopted and adapted by newcomers settling the open range.

After the Civil War cattle herds were increased to meet the demands of a growing country. Twice a year cowboys rounded up their free-ranging herds and drove them to market in Kansas City or Fort Worth, the end of the line for some railroads. After these long cattle drives cowboys held casual competitions to discover the best roper or rider.

By the late 1800s cattle drives were becoming a thing of the past. Barbed wire crisscrossed the range and ever-expanding railroads brought cattle cars to all points west. With the dwindling need for ranch hands and the homesteading of the plains, cowboys were at a loss on how to make a living. Enter Buffalo Bill Cody and the Wild West Show!

Designed to captivate and thrill audiences, the Wild West shows of the late 19th and early 20th centuries featured cowboys and Indians, bucking broncos, snorting bulls, and the like.The pageantry of the performers’ parade into the arena was followed by competitions of fancy riding, rope tricks, and other feats of showmanship.

During this time cowboys still held informal competitions at stock-horse shows and other venues, but now they performed in front of a paying audience. When Wild West shows fell victim to high production costs, cowboy competitions gained in popularity, often becoming the annual highlight of many a frontier town. Entry fees were added to prize purses, encouraging ropers and riders to compete for a little extra cash. As the sport grew, performers were able to earn a living on the rodeo circuit.

Rodeo soon professionalized itself. In 1929 the Rodeo Association of America was formed to set uniform competition rules. In the mid-1930s another organization was started by a group of cowboys angry about cheating rodeo promoters, poorly advertised shows, and unfair judging. Their efforts made a difference and the group became the Rodeo Cowboys Association in 1945. The modern era of rodeo had begun.

Fun Facts
  • Although the days of the caravan are long over, Rodeo of the Ozarks board members travel to other rodeos to promote the event and invite cowboys and cowgirls to participate.
  • In 1950 the Whisker Club was challenged by the men of Pea Ridge who, for some unknown reason, had begun growing beards weeks earlier. Springdale lost most of the beard-growing competitions (best groomed, most Abe-Lincoln-like), and were teased as “short beards.”
  • Rodeo cowboys often wear big, flashy belt buckles. When the sport was first professionalized, many cowboys were also boxers and received similar belts as prizes in the ring.
  • In 1946 Springdale’s citizens were asked to walk to the rodeo grounds or share a ride in an effort to keep parking spaces open for out-of-town visitors.
  • The pointed toe in a cowboy boot makes it easy to regain a lost stirrup while a tall, tapered heel helps hold the boot in place. If a boot should get stuck in the stirrup during a wild ride, the loose top allows the cowboy to slip out of his boot and avoid injury.
  • The phrase “cowboy up” means to face up to a difficult situation or challenge.
  • The Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association was originally called the Cowboy Turtles Association. When they organized in 1936, these men fought cheating rodeo promoters, poorly advertised shows, and unfair judging. They said that although they were slow to band together, they had to stick their necks out for their beliefs.
  • At one time fireworks were banned at the rodeo after they spooked the horses of the Springdale Riding Club, causing a stampede.
  • “Biting the dust” happens when a rider is thrown from his horse. “Broomtail” is slang for a wild mare. When a bronc rider is “grabbin’ the apple,” he’s reaching for the pommel of his saddle to keep from being thrown from his horse.
  • Bill Picket, an African-American cowboy who performed in Buffalo Bill Cody’s Wild West Show in the late 1800s, is believed to have invented the sport of steer wrestling. His style of bulldogging included jumping from his horse onto the steer’s back, biting the animal’s lip, and twisting its horns until it fell to the ground. Today’s wrestlers don’t bite.
  • The term “fishing” refers to a roper who has thrown at but missed an animal, but by chance the rope flips onto the animal’s neck.
  • In 1948 Frank Autry was the Rodeo of the Ozark’s arena director. He was a cousin of movie star Gene Autry.
  • A “honda” is the eye in the end of a rope through which the other rope end passes through, forming a loop.
  • Bronc is short for bronco, which is Spanish for “rough” or “wild.”
  • Fancy roping and trick riding were competitive events in early 1900s rodeos. Today they are paid performances.
  • Each time a contestant wins a rodeo event, the prize money is tallied. A rodeo “champion” is the person who wins the most money for the year in one of seven sanctioned events at Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association-approved rodeos. The term “added money” refers to the total prize money in each event. It’s made up of the contestants’ entry fees and the purse put up by the rodeo. “Ground money” is split evenly among the contestants should no one win the event.
  • In 1946 an 800-foot hitching rack was constructed at Parsons Stadium. That’s a lot of horses!
  • The Professional Women’s Rodeo Association was established in 1987.
  • The word “rodeo” is Spanish (pronounced ro-DAY-oh). It comes from the word rodear, meaning “to surround.”

1947 Rodeo of the Ozarks Parade

Photo Gallery

Rodeo Leaders
Early rodeo leaders, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 1946.  From left: Walter Watkins, Evert Head, B.B. “Cap” Brogdon (1946 parade marshal).

Early rodeo leaders, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 1946. From left: Walter Watkins, Evert Head, B. B. “Cap” Brogdon (1946 parade marshal). Springdale Chamber of Commerce Collection (S-84-157-69A)

Many noted Springdale residents and business leaders helped organize and operate the rodeo because “it was the thing to do.” The rodeo is part civic pride, part economic opportunity, and part good fun.

People like poultryman John Tyson, truckers Harvey Jones and Willis Shaw, grocer Don Harp, merchants Sandy Boone and Tex Holt, attorney Mace Howell, livestock men Shorty Parsons and Dempsey Letsch, and jeweler Mike Tatman have been among the many men and women who have contributed to the rodeo’s success.

Springdale Benevolent Amusement Association, 1963.

Springdale Benevolent Amusement Association, 1963. Seated, from left: Ulysses A. Lovell, Wayne Hyden, Thurman “Shorty” Parsons, Joe Sanford “Sandy” Boone, Mace Howell. Standing, from left: Gene Thompson, Johnnie Gladden, Jerry E. Hinshaw, Howard Long, J.W. “Slim” Bayley, M. Hugh “Chick” Otwell, Wayne High, Don Hoyt, Otis Cardwell. Not pictured: Jay Martens. Ray Watson, photographer. Pat Parsons Hutter Collection (S-94-54-30)

In 1947 Shorty Parsons sold the rodeo grounds to the newly formed Springdale Benevolent Amusement Association. The Association raised funds in a number of ways, including $25 memberships. The stadium’s mortgage was paid off in 1954. Parsons served as president from 1950 to 1988.

Over the years the Association has used its proceeds for many local projects such as outfitting the Springdale High School band, developing a Babe Ruth baseball field, building a community center, and contributing to Ducks Unlimited and the Springdale National Guard Armory.

Early rodeo organizers, Shiloh Park, Springdale, Arkansas, 1949.

Early rodeo organizers, Shiloh Park, Springdale, 1949. Seated, from left: Velma Robinson, Murl Letsch, Gladys Reed. Back row, from left: Isabel Cloppert, Mrs. Calvin Walker, Patricia Parsons, Georgia Ritter (seated low on fence), unidentified, Marguerite Walker. Howard Clark, photographer. Howard Clark Collection (S-2002-72-2124)

In the early days, rodeo leaders and their wives took on many responsibilities to make the rodeo a success. Shorty Parsons and his family served brown beans, cornbread, and strawberry shortcake to 400 or so rodeo participants at the Parsons’ home.

Rodeo can get into a person’s blood. Parsons’ daughter, Pat Parsons Hutter, has been involved with the Rodeo of the Ozarks most of her life. She served as rodeo queen in 1950 and since 1958 has coordinated the queen’s pageant. She was a national barrel racer for forty-five years and even met her husband at the rodeo. She has never missed a parade or rodeo.

Promoting the Rodeo
Springdale's Skunk Holler Hillbilly Band promoting the Rodeo of the Ozarks, Van Buren, Arkansas, June 1946. P. W. “Doc” Boone at the microphone, with Shelby Ford (in white hat).

Springdale’s Skunk Holler Hillbilly Band promoting the Rodeo of the Ozarks, Van Buren, Arkansas, June 1946. P. W. “Doc” Boone at the microphone, with Shelby Ford (in white hat). Don Hoyt Collection (S-86-315-39)

In the rodeo’s early days, goodwill caravans of horses, riders, and performers traveled miles and miles around Northwest Arkansas, eastern Oklahoma, and Southwest Missouri. The group put on short promotional shows. Their stage was a flat-bed trailer provided by Springdale produce broker Joe Robinson. In 1946 the caravan sold $16,000 in tickets.

In June 1950 the caravan was ordered to “not block the streets” and “move on” in Noel, Missouri, prompting the Springdale Chamber of Commerce to declare that Noel would “not get another chance to disapprove of rodeo visitors.” A few days later two Noel businessmen came to town to be “punished” by a dunking in a stock tank full of water.

“Mac” McRoberts being dunked by Charles Tansey (left) and Wayne High, Emma Avenue, Springdale, Arkansas, 1952.

“Mac” McRoberts being dunked by Charles Tansey (left) and Wayne High, Emma Avenue, Springdale, 1952. Sandy Boone Collection (S-2006-154-18)

Springdale merchants decorated their businesses to promote rodeo spirit. During Western Week residents were asked to wear at least two pieces of western-style clothing. In 1950 the Whisker Club began and men were encouraged to grow beards. Those who didn’t could purchase shaving permits, with the proceeds going to rodeo festivities.

Folks who didn’t comply might be fined a small fee, dunked in a stock tank full of water, or tried by a “kangaroo court” and sent to “jail” until they were bailed out. In 1953 the guilty party might also have found himself the temporary caretaker of a “flap-eared burro.”

Western Days winners, Springdale Bank and Trust, Springdale, Arkansas, June 30, 1989.

Western Days winners, Springdale Bank and Trust, Springdale, June 30, 1989. Springdale News Collection (S-93-95-46)

Parades
First Rodeo of the Ozarks parade, Emma Avenue, Springdale, Arkansas, July 1945.

First Rodeo of the Ozarks parade, Emma Avenue, Springdale, July 1945. Evert and Reba Head (far left) lead the Springdale Riding Club. Sandy Boone Collection (S-2006-102-13)

Both Springdale and Fayetteville formed riding clubs in 1945. Springdale’s was Western in style while Fayetteville’s was Eastern and English—very traditional riding styles, saddles, and dress. Fayetteville’s club focused on proper horse breeding.

Fayetteville also held a horse event in 1945, but it wasn’t as well attended as Springdale’s rodeo. Some think that may have been due to the liveliness and informality of the rodeo appealing to a wide group of locals and country folks.

First National Bank’s second-place-winning float at the high school bus lot, Springdale, Arkansas, July 1949.

First National Bank’s second-place-winning float at the high school bus lot, Springdale, July 1949. From left: Georgia Mae Newton, Sarah Mitchell, Jean Kever, Mary Vaughan, Geraldine Kendrick, unidentified boy. Mary Maestri Vaughan Collection (S-99-33-6)

Hundreds of riders and their horses traveled down Emma Avenue during the first rodeo parades. Beginning in 1949 businesses and civic clubs entered floats with a western theme. Heekin Canning was famous for their “tin man” float, complete with a tin can cowboy dressed in western gear. Prizes were given for such things as best float, best dressed riding club, furthest traveled club, best large wagon and team, and best pony cart.

Rodeo of the Ozarks parade, Emma Avenue, Springdale, Arkansas, July 1967.

Rodeo of the Ozarks parade, Emma Avenue, Springdale, July 1967.
Springdale News Collection (SMN 7-1-4-67)

Each year Springdale holds two parades during the rodeo. Marching bands, stagecoaches, the Springdale Stepperettes, antique cars, riders and their horses, fire engines, rodeo officials and queens, civic groups, and even the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile have all traveled down Emma Avenue to the delight of the crowds.

Other rodeo festivities through the years have included square dance contests, barbecues, “shoot-outs,” horseshoe tournaments, pancake breakfasts, stick- horse parades, stagecoach rides, mare-colt races, chuck-wagon dinners, and “ole time mellodrammers.”

Women Rodeo Contestants
Kelli Martin of Siloam Springs, Ozarks Barrel Race Futurity-Derby, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, Arkansas, May 31,1985.

Kelli Martin of Siloam Springs, Ozarks Barrel Race Futurity-Derby, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, May 31,1985. Charles Bickford, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 5-31-1985)

Women first competed in trick riding and bronc riding events at the 1897 rodeo in Cheyenne, Wyoming, but those days were short lived. Few competed in the early 1900s, when many thought a woman’s place was in the beauty pageant, not the rodeo arena. The tide changed in 1947 when an all-girl rodeo was staged in Amarillo, Texas. Its success proved that people would pay to watch female rodeo contestants.

Today barrel racing is a popular women’s sport. Riders and their quarter horses complete a quick cloverleaf pattern around three barrels. Penalties are given for each barrel tipped over. A good time is fourteen seconds.

Sandra McWhorter of Rogers (Rodeo of the Ozarks queen candidate), Parsons Stadium, Springdale, Arkansas, July 1946.

Sandra McWhorter of Rogers (Rodeo of the Ozarks queen candidate), Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 1946. Hubert L. Musteen, photographer. Don Hoyt Collection (S-86-315-42A)

A rodeo queen’s duty is to promote the rodeo, give interviews, visit schools, and ride in parades. In 1993 candidates for queen were judged for their personality, appearance, and horsemanship. Each gave an impromptu speech about who they were, what their goals were, and what being Miss Rodeo of the Ozarks would mean to them.

The winner received roses, a crown, a custom saddle, and a photo session. The runner-up received a diamond watch while the horsemanship winner got a belt buckle and a pair of boots.

Rodeo queens, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, Arkansas, July 4, 1975

Rodeo queens, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 4, 1975. From left: Theresa King of Bentonville (Miss Rodeo of the Ozarks), Connie Della Lucia (Miss Rodeo America), and Debbie Garrett of Springdale (Miss Arkansas-Oklahoma Rodeo). Charles Bickford, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-4-1975)

Animal Rights
Animal-rights activists, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, Arkansas, July 4, 1992.

Animal-rights activists, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 4, 1992. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-4-1992)

The rodeo means many things to many people. To some it’s a time to have fun watching athletes test their skills against each other and their animals. To others it’s a time to worry about the treatment of animals in the chutes and the arena.

While all involved love animals and are concerned about their welfare, they don’t see eye to eye on the rights of animals or the sport of rodeo.

Ashley Creek enjoying the rodeo, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, Arkansas, July 1,1982.

Ashley Creek enjoying the rodeo, Parsons Stadium, Springdale, July 1,1982. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-1-1982)

Credits

“15 Queens Sight for Sore Cowboy Eyes.” Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

“1,500 Welcome Tour Home; Program Stopped at Noel,” Springdale News, June 23, 1950.

“3,000 Witness Rodeo Parade Held Thursday,” Springdale News, July 11, 1946.

Boone, Joe Sanford “Sandy.” Interview by Kim Allen Scott, May 11, 1994.

“Chuck Wagon Feed Expected to Draw Big Crowd Tonight,” Springdale News, July 1, 1952.

Clark, Ralph. “Rodeo History.” About.com

“Complete Hitch Racks at Rodeo Grounds Tuesday,” Springdale News, June 6, 1946.

“Cousin of Gene Autry to Direct Springdale Rodeo.” Springdale News, June 28, 1948.

“Cowboy Garb is Dressy But it Has a Purpose,” Springdale News, June 29, 1959.

“Eighth Annual Show Features Varied Program,” Springdale News, July 2, 1952.

“First Annual Rodeo Draws Crowd,” Springdale News, July 5, 1947.

Haseloff, Cynthia. “Rodeo of the Ozarks Caravans Sold Tickets Around Region.” Northwest Arkansas Morning News, June 25, 2000.

“Hats, Boots Show Up,” Springdale News, June 22, 1953.

Litzinger, Beverly. “Local Entrepreneur a Rodeo Participant for More Than 50 Years.” Northwest Arkansas Times, June 30, 2000.

“Local Citizens Plan Purchase Rodeo Grounds,” Springdale News, 2-6-1947.

“Many Floats Will Be Featured in Rodeo Parade,” Springdale News, June 27, 1950.

Martinez, Diana Rowe. “The History of Rodeo.” 2000. suite101.com (web link no longer active as of February 2019).

“Miss Rodeo of the Ozarks on the Right Track.”  Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

“Noel Men Dunked by Request in Apology for Tour Incident.” Springdale News, June 26, 1950.

“Parade Prize Winners Named.” Springdale News, May 5, 1949.

“Posses Looking for Fun, Ideas at World Famous Rodeos.” Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

Program. First Annual Fayetteville, Arkansas, Horse Show, June 1945.

Program. Rodeo of the Ozarks, July 1976.

“Quadrille Team Puts on Dandy Show.” Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

Rattenbury, Richard. “American Rodeo Gallery.” National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum website (web link no longer active as of February 2019).

Robson, Gary D. “Rodeo Terminology.” Caption Central. (web link no longer active as of February 2019).

“Rodeo of the Ozarks Action at 8 p.m. Wilder Than Shootout at High Noon.” Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

“Rodeo Dictionary.” Springdale News, June 28, 1948.

Scott, Kim Allen. “Let’s Rodeo! A Short History of the Rodeo of the Ozarks.” Unpublished manuscript,  June 1995. Shiloh Museum research files.

“Springdale Benevolent Amusement As’sn Organized February 6, 1947.” Springdale News, June 28, 1948.

“Still in the Saddle: Parsons Family Keeps Riding with Rodeo of the Ozarks,” Northwest Arkansas Times, July 4, 2004.

Strong, Jean. “Rodeo of the Ozarks: Looking Ahead to 55 Years.” The Ketchpen, Spring 1999.

“Thousands Have Made Habit of Coming to City,” Springdale News, June 27, 1950.

“Trail Riders Drive Rodeo Spirit to Town.” Springdale News, June 20, 1993.

“Walk to Rodeo,” Springdale News, June 27, 1946.

“Welcome 7th Annual Rodeo of the Ozarks,” Springdale News, June 22, 1953.

Wells, Julie. “Women in Rodeo.” Women’s Professional Rodeo Association website (web link no longer active as of February 2019).

“Western Attire for all Residents Sought as Rodeo Time Nears,” Springdale News, June 13, 1951.

“Whisker Club Does Good Job of Advertising Local Rodeo,” Springdale News, June 27, 1950.

“Whiskers Club Funds to Provide Entertainment for Cowboys,” Springdale News, May 2, 1951.

 

Scenes of Boone County

Scenes of Boone County

Online Exhibit
Modified section from 1901 "Map of Arkansas," George F. Cram, Chicago

Modified section from 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” George F. Cram, Chicago

The area which is now Boone County was once home to Native Americans like the Osage. Spanish and French explorers later came through, followed by settlers from Tennessee, Kentucky, and other southern states. The land was heavily forested and hilly, so new arrivals came by river until roads could be built for wagons. In December 1818 explorer Henry R. Schoolcraft stopped at Sugarloaf Prairie near Lead Hill and said this of the inhabitants:

They raise corn for bread, and for feeding their horses previous to the commencement of long journeys in the woods, but none for exportation. No cabbages, beets, onions, potatoes, turnips, or other garden vegetables are raised. Gardens are unknown. Corn and other wild meats, chiefly bear’s meat, are the staple articles of food. In manners, morals, customs, dress, contempt for labor and hospitality, the state of society is not essentially different from that which exists among the savages.

An east-west military road, also known as the Washington Road, was built in the days when the area was part of a much larger Carroll County. Boone County was created in 1869 from a large chunk of Carroll County; a few years later a small portion of Marion County was added. The county wasn’t named after Daniel Boone, as some have claimed. Rather, its beautiful land was said to be a boon (a gift) to its settlers.

Farmers found prairies and other land suitable for grazing livestock and planting such crops as cotton, corn, and fruit. Zinc and lead were mined and forests were heavily logged for such products as railroad ties, lumber, barrel staves, and tool handles. The coming of the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad in 1901 meant that more of Boone County’s products could be shipped to market. In 1905 the Harrison Times wrote:

“There is stamped upon our people the signet of enterprise and broad-gauged public spirit; we are moving steadily onward in wealth, material prosperity and advances of culture with the courage of self-assertion. . . . Enterprise is planning new forms; labor a new impetus; brain and brawn are at work and we are moving steadily onward and upward in progress and advancement.”

Some of this progress was seen in the several health resorts that opened in the 1880s to promote the medicinal benefits of the county’s springs. Private academies flourished as did businesses, especially in the county seat of Harrison. But Boone County had its troubles over the years. During the Civil War bushwhackers and armies tore through the land, destroying homes, businesses, and families. In the early 1900s race riots drove out most of Harrison’s African American population and a railroad strike led to vandalism and a hanging.

A County is Born
James and Mary Snelson

James O. and Mary Snelson Nicholson, early pioneers, about 1900. J. W. Nicholson/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-7)

Ed Pendley house construction, Boone County, Arkansas, 1913

Ed Pendley house under construction, near Hill Top, 1913. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-50)

In the 1830s and 1840s, homesteaders looking for free land came by river and military road to the area then known as Carroll County. They built log cabins, hunted and farmed, established post offices, and started businesses such as general stores and a bear-grease rendering plant (for lamp oil).

Sen. James T. Hopper, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s

Senator James Townsend “Town” Hopper, sponsor of legislation to create Boone County, early 1900s. Jessalee Nash/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-69)

After the strife of the Civil War, Union and Confederate forces fought once again, but this time for positions of leadership.  James Townsend Hopper, a former Union soldier, was elected to the state Senate. There he sponsored legislation to create a new county, since local government was controlled by ex-Confederates. In April 1869, with the help of a Republican legislature, land from the east side of Carroll County was taken and Boone County was born.

The County Seat
Town Square, Harrison, Arkansas, circa 1910.

Looking southwest at Harrison, with the courthouse in the center, about 1910. Mrs. F. L. Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-23)

When Boone County was created in 1869, Harrison became the county seat. Originally called Crooked Creek, the name was changed when Captain Henry W. Fick asked civil engineer M. LaRue Harrison, both former Union soldiers, to survey the town. Fick was Harrison’s postmaster and developed many business interests in the pro-Union, pro-Republican town.

A few years later folks petitioned to move the county seat to Bellefonte, a long-established community that had supported the Confederacy. Worried about losing business in Harrison, Fick found like-minded former Confederates to help him campaign. It was a close vote, but the seat stayed in Harrison. Residents’ fears of violence from the losing side came to nothing.

Courthouse construction crew, Boone County, Arkansas, about 1907

Courthouse construction crew, Harrison, about 1907. The previous courthouse burned down in 1906. Robert Flippo/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-50)

For many years the county seat of Harrison looked like the Old West with dirt streets, roaming livestock, and the dangerous “Dead Man’s Corner,” scene of many a fight and shooting.

Harrison grew dramatically in population with the coming of the railroad in 1901. More people meant more businesses, homes, and infrastructure—things like sewers, roads, and utilities.

The town’s first street improvement district was created in 1924. Streets in the business district were paved and a sewer system was built. But by 1936 only 10 percent of the town’s streets were surfaced. Believing Harrison couldn’t continue to grow without improvement, downtown merchant Layton Coffman successfully led a campaign to pave streets citywide.

Digging for sewer mains, Harrison, Arkansas, October 1925.

Digging for sewer mains, Harrison, October 1925. W. Carl Smith, photographer. Ada Lee Shook Collection (S-98-85-1646)

Springs and Creeks
Bellefonte Spring, Boone County, Arkansas, circa 1912

Bellefonte Spring, about 1912. Bellefonte (“beautiful fountain”) was one of many communities founded around a spring. Eula Albright/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-58)

Springs and creeks were important to settlers. Creeks provided energy for grist mills and cotton gins. Springs offered medicinal and business opportunities. In the 1880s, Eureka Springs in nearby Carroll County became a prosperous health resort as people flocked to “take the waters” and cure their ailments.

Boone County had three resorts. The most popular was in the town of Elixir Springs, where the spring’s water was said to cure rheumatism and blood diseases. About 1,000 people lived and worked in the town in the early 1880s. But the resort and the town’s life were short lived. By 1892 it and another resort at Tom Thumb Springs were long gone.

One of the Valley (or Double) Springs, about 1925. Eula Albright/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-2)

Mountain Meadows Massacre
Milum Spring, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s

Milum Spring, south of Harrison, early 1900s. Roger V. Logan Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-59)

In April 1857, under the leadership of Captain Alexander Fancher, a large company of County residents and others formed a caravan at Milum Spring and headed for new opportunities in California.

In September they stopped at Mountain Meadows, a valley in the Utah Territory.  There they were attacked by Mormons and Native Americans.  They battled several days, after which the survivors where allowed to leave, only to be brutally attacked one more time.  Seventeen children deemed too young to tell the tale were allowed to live.

The reasons for this terrible massacre and the actions taken by the various parties is still hotly debated by historians, descendents, and church leaders.  After many years of denial, a small monument to the victims now stands in the valley.

James Dunlap home, Boone County, Arkansas

James D. Dunlap home, early to mid-1900s. Some survivors of the Mountain Meadows massacre were raised in this home, built about 1854. Roger V. Logan Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-60-8)

Civil War
Richard and Nancy Hopper Capps, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s.

Richard R. and Nancy A. Hopper Capps, near Hopewell, early 1900s. Capps first served in Co. H, 2nd Regiment Missouri Light Artillery (a Union force). Roger V. Logan, Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-44)

Col. Eli Dodson, Boone County, early 1900s.

Colonel Eli Dodson, early 1900s. He served in the 14th Arkansas Infantry Confederate (organized in Boone County) and later as county judge. Martha Sisco/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-57)

In the hills of Northern Arkansas, where slavery wasn’t as common as it was in the Delta, most folks weren’t interested in leaving the Union. After much legislative debate and voting, Arkansas seceded in May 1861. County residents were forced to choose sides—Union or Confederate.

Most of the county’s men formed companies and went off to fight. Some saw action at the Battles of Pea Ridge and Prairie Grove. Those left behind faced hardships, too. Armies destroyed a gunpowder mill on Crooked Creek and a niter works (explosives) at Dubuque and they took livestock, food, and grain. Violent bushwhackers took what was left and often burned homes when they weren’t satisfied.

Homes and Farms
Reverend W.R. “Buck” Burnett family, Hill Top, Boone County, Arkansas, 1908.

Reverend W.R. “Buck” Burnett family, Hill Top, 1908. Burnett was a Freewill Baptist minister who preached without pay. His daughter-in-law, who was ashamed of this house with its pigs in the yard, hid this photo for many years. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-132)

Charles W. Czech home on South Pine Street, Harrison, Arkansas, early 1900s.

Charles W. Czech home on South Pine Street, Harrison, early 1900s. Czech owned the Jersey Roller Mill which was known for its quality flours and meals (coarse-ground grains). Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-28)

The first settlers built hand-hewn log cabins and lived a simple, hard life. As communities and towns grew, roads and a railroad were built. New architectural styles and fancy construction materials made their way into the county, allowing prosperous businessmen to build large, showy homes.

By the early 1900s many in the African American community in Harrison owned their own homes. They were often located in the less desirable parts of the town, although a few families lived in white neighborhoods.

Threshing on the Vol Denton farm, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas, June 30, 1911.

Threshing on the Vol Denton farm, Alpena, June 30, 1911. As a stream-driven thresher moved its way through the fields, the top rails of a split-rail fence were often fed as fuel into the firebox; the rails were later replaced. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-49)

Boone County’s prairies and cleared lands offered farmers a good place to plant crops and feed their livestock. An 1883 newspaper article declared that county soil was “well adapted to the production of corn, wheat, cotton, tobacco, grass, sorghum, oats, barley, etc., etc.”

Early settlers grew vegetables and grains to feed themselves.  It was only later that crops were grown for market. In 1905 the Lead Hill area shipped out about 5,000 bales of cotton. In 1913 “Black Ben Davis” apples were shipped from the Hickory Grove farm near Harrison.

Businesses
E. G. Whitaker General Store, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas,about 1909.

E. G. Whitaker General Store, Alpena, circa 1909. Nancy Barron/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-44)

Bank of Harrison, Harrison, Boone County, Arkansas,about 1895.

Bank of Harrison, Harrison, circa 1895. Garvin Fitton/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-37)

Soon after settlers first arrived in the county, businesses like general stores began to spring up. By 1885 Harrison had a number of stores that sold food, medicine, clothing, furniture, saddles, and hardware. Specialized shops included a bakery, ice cream and candy makers, and a man who made tinware. Residents from neighboring communities flocked to town on Saturdays to shop and socialize.

The coming of the railroad in 1901 meant that more goods were brought into the county and farm products and natural resources like lumber and ores were sent to market. In the 1910s fresh eggs were shipped to Memphis in railroad cars cooled with ice.

Sam Paul’s blacksmith shop, Gaither, Boone County, Arkansas, circa 1902.

Sam Paul’s blacksmith shop, Gaither, circa 1902. Dr. Troy Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-21)

Cotton gin, Everton, Boone County, Arkansas,circa 1900.

Cotton gin, Everton, circa 1900. Gladys McKay/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-55)


By 1847 four legal, tax-paying distilleries operated in Carroll County. Many more illegal stills were likely hidden in the hills by folks who refused to pay the alcohol tax. The manufacture of moonshine grew in the 1890s when the government raised alcohol taxes, and from 1915 to 1935 during Prohibition, when alcohol was severely limited nationwide.

After World War II, returning veterans found their county overrun with bootleggers. They re-sold alcohol illegally at a premium to folks who lived in a “dry” county like Boone which didn’t allow alcohol sales. Determined to put an end to the lawbreakers, one group pushed for the legalization of alcohol sales while another tried to rid local government of do-nothing officials.

In the end, it took a double murder on the Harrison square in 1946 before the town’s sheriff and city administration finally dealt with the lawlessness.

Legal still #51, near Hurricane Cave, Boone County, Arkansas, circa1900.

Legal still #51, near Hurricane Cave, circa 1900. Red Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-86)

Education
Shady Grove School, Boone County, Arkansas, October 10, 1913.

Shady Grove School, October 10, 1913. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-12)

Early county schools were one-room log buildings, with one teacher for all grades.  Rural students tended to complete fewer grades and had shorter terms than students in town.  This was due in part to community funding problems and the students’ need to work at home and on the farm.

In the 1870s academies were established in Bellefonte, Rally Hill, and Valley Springs.  The Harrison College and Normal Institute (a training school for teachers) was later established for females.  These schools provided a comprehensive education for those who could afford the fees.  Big towns like Harrison built impressive public schools.

During the 20th century consolidation reduced the number of school districts from 99 to six.  By 1935 every student had access to a high school education.

The Railroad
t. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad train on Long Creek trestle, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas,April 15, 1901.

St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad train on Long Creek trestle, Alpena, April 15, 1901. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-94)

Alpena depot, Boone County, Arkansas,1902.

Alpena depot, 1902. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-85-27-29)

In 1883 a railway line was built into Carroll County, spurring economic growth and tourism. Boone County wanted an extension of the line, but the expense and difficulty of building in the mountains kept financial backers away.

For 20 years folks made do with a daily stagecoach run between Eureka Springs and Harrison. Eventually backers were found and residents gave land and cash to smooth the way. In March 1901 the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad steamed into Harrison where it was greeted with band music and speeches. Later the line pushed eastward into the county and became the Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad.

The railroad brought goods and people into the county and sent produce, livestock, and natural resources like timber and mineral ores all over the nation.


Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad shops, looking northwest, Harrison, Arkansas, circa 1915.

Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad shops, looking northwest, Harrison, about 1915. Mrs. F. L. Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-47)

The Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad had a troubled existence. By 1921 financial problems led to a major wage cut. Union workers went on strike and the line closed down, causing hardship for many families and businesses. Although a group of investors bought the railroad and resumed operations, the workers remained on strike.

Tensions increased in Harrison as strike-breakers crossed the picket line and vandalism occurred. On January 14, 1923, hundreds of armed men arrived by train and car. They searched homes for union literature and firearms, threatened strikers, and burned the Union Hall. The violence grew. Before it was over one man was hanged from a railroad bridge. Fearing for their lives, strikers and their families fled. The union was busted.

Another strike in 1946 effectively ended the railroad line.

African Americans
 Vannie, a cook in Harrison, Arkansas,, about 1900.

Vannie, a Harrison cook, about 1900. Garvin Fitton/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-2)

In 1900 just over 100 African Americans lived in Harrison, which had a total population of more than 1,500. Many had been in the area for a long time and had established churches, a school, and businesses. A division existed along race lines but, for the most part, life was peaceful. Things changed as racial intolerance spread across the country and “justice” increasingly meant the use of violence.

Tensions increased in Harrison when a number of homeless, unemployed African-American railroad laborers came to town. In 1905 a black man was jailed for breaking into a home. Mob violence erupted and blacks were beaten and their homes burned. Many fled for their lives, never to return. Three years later a youth was accused of robbery and rape. Once again the black community feared mob violence and fled. By 1910 “Aunt Vine” Smith was the only African American left in Harrison.

The 2010 census listed a few dozen blacks in Boone County, home to the Arkansas faction of the Knights of the Ku Klux Klan.

Mining and Timber
Gloria Mines, Zinc, Boone County, Arkansas, circa 1916.

Gloria Mines, Zinc, about 1916. Fay Hodge/Harrison Daily Times [published 11-14-1986] (S-88-36-3)

Town names such as Lead Hill and Zinc attest to the importance of mining in Boone County. In the1850s small mines near Dubuque and Lead Hill used crude smelters to extract lead from rock.

Mining began in earnest in the 1870s and it was hard work. Hand tools were used to dig pits in the ground or shafts into the sides of mountain. Tons of ore-bearing rock were processed on site or sent to distant smelters. In 1886, 33 wagon-loads of ore (34,320 pounds) were shipped from the Bonanza Mine near Lead Hill down the White River to Batesville, and then on to St. Louis by rail.

A zinc “rush” began around 1899. Zinc was used as a pigment in paints, for battery electrodes, and for galvanizing iron. During World War I zinc prices soared only to fall at war’s end. Many mines were abandoned and towns shrank or disappeared.


Cutting staves, Richland Creek, early 1900s.

Cutting staves, Richland Creek, early 1900s. Earl Henry/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-34)

Early settlers found large stands of oak, hickory, cedar, walnut, cherry, and pine.  Railroads headed for Northwest Arkansas in the 1880s in part to take advantage of its vast timber reserves.  Logging became a major industry, creating jobs and boom towns along the line.

Once saws and axes felled the giant trees, teams of mules hauled the logs to sawmills and factories where the timber was turned into barrel staves, railroad ties, lumber, fence posts, and tool handles.  When the trees were gone in one area, operations moved to the next.  New settlers farmed the cleared land.

A circa-1883 forestry report predicted a 300-year supply of timber.  By the 1920s the forests were largely gone.  The timber boom was over.

Gatherings
Methodist Sunday School group enjoying dinner on the ground, Wilson Spring, Boone County, Arkansas,early 1900s.

Methodist Sunday School group enjoying dinner on the ground, Wilson Spring, early 1900s. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-71)

People came together in a variety of ways.  Picnics on the Fourth of July were common, as were “dinners on the ground,” often organized by churches.  On Decoration Day families tidied up cemeteries and placed flowers on graves.  Log-raisings to build barns and homes were held when a new family moved into the neighborhood.  The Boone County fair started in 1887 and offered livestock contests, mule racing, and arts and crafts exhibitions.

Traveling preachers held meetings and sometimes debated one another.  Fiddle music and dancing were popular but some churches frowned on this pastime. “Play parties” were a way to get around this.  Rather than use instruments to make music, songs were sung and participants did a type of square dance.

In all of these activities, folks had a chance to get together to strengthen community and social bonds and meet eligible partners.


Independence Day celebration, Hill Top, Boone County, Arkansas,1910s.

Independence Day celebration, Hill Top, 1910s. The women may be students of the Hill Top Mission School. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-86)

For many decades Independence Day was a time for communities to come together and have a good time.

The town of Harrison was incorporated in March 1876.  In celebration, city fathers planned a grand event for the Fourth of July which, that year, fell on the Centennial of the nation’s founding.  Over 3,000 folks listened to bands, picnicked, heard readings of the Declaration of Independence and other patriotic speeches, and watched fireworks.

A joust was held at the race track.  Men riding horses and holding pointed sticks raced towards posts that held rings suspended by wire.  The winner was the first to spear the ring with his stick.  First prize was $20.


Riverside baptism at Omaha, Boone County, Arkansas,1909.

Riverside baptism at Omaha, 1909. Brother Voiles, minister. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-125)

Early settlers brought their religion with them, often worshipping in their homes.  One of the first churches was Crooked Creek Primitive Baptist Church, founded in 1834.  Churches formed and split frequently as communities changed or members differed on church teachings.

Traveling preachers and circuit riders (pastors on horseback who visited the several churches in their care every few weeks) held services where they could—in homes, fields, and even the county courthouse.  A revival meeting at Harrison led to several baptisms and the 1890 formation of the First Baptist Church.

A mission school was founded in Hill Top.  In Harrison the Methodists built a college, only to have it burn down before school started.

 

1921 Bank Robbery
William J. Meyers, early 1900s.

William J. Meyers, early 1900s. Robert Raley/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-1)

Henry Starr, Harrison, Arkansas, February 1921.

Henry Starr, Harrison, February 1921. Robert Raley/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-31)

In February 1921 notorious outlaw Henry Starr was one of several men who tried to rob the Peoples National Bank on Harrison’s square.  Before the robbery they cut telephone lines and surveyed the bank and square.

The bank’s former president, William J. Meyers, happened to be in the bank that day.  Once the cashier opened the safe the thieves began grabbing money.  A distraction caused by an uncooperative patron turned their attention away from the safe, allowing Meyers a chance to grab the .38 caliber Winchester rifle stored in the vault.  He shot and wounded Starr.  Starr told his men to flee; eventually they were caught and tried.  Starr died a few days after the robbery.

From 1901 The area which is now Boone County was once home to Native Americans like the Osage. Spanish and French explorers later came through, followed by settlers from Tennessee, Kentucky, and other southern states. The land was heavily forested and hilly, so new arrivals came by river until roads could be built for wagons. In December 1818 explorer Henry R. Schoolcraft stopped at Sugarloaf Prairie near Lead Hill and said this of the inhabitants:

They raise corn for bread, and for feeding their horses previous to the commencement of long journeys in the woods, but none for exportation. No cabbages, beets, onions, potatoes, turnips, or other garden vegetables are raised. Gardens are unknown. Corn and other wild meats, chiefly bear’s meat, are the staple articles of food. In manners, morals, customs, dress, contempt for labor and hospitality, the state of society is not essentially different from that which exists among the savages.

An east-west military road, also known as the Washington Road, was built in the days when the area was part of a much larger Carroll County. Boone County was created in 1869 from a large chunk of Carroll County; a few years later a small portion of Marion County was added. The county wasn’t named after Daniel Boone, as some have claimed. Rather, its beautiful land was said to be a boon (a gift) to its settlers.

Farmers found prairies and other land suitable for grazing livestock and planting such crops as cotton, corn, and fruit. Zinc and lead were mined and forests were heavily logged for such products as railroad ties, lumber, barrel staves, and tool handles. The coming of the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad in 1901 meant that more of Boone County’s products could be shipped to market. In 1905 the Harrison Times wrote:

“There is stamped upon our people the signet of enterprise and broad-gauged public spirit; we are moving steadily onward in wealth, material prosperity and advances of culture with the courage of self-assertion. . . . Enterprise is planning new forms; labor a new impetus; brain and brawn are at work and we are moving steadily onward and upward in progress and advancement.”

Some of this progress was seen in the several health resorts that opened in the 1880s to promote the medicinal benefits of the county’s springs. Private academies flourished as did businesses, especially in the county seat of Harrison. But Boone County had its troubles over the years. During the Civil War bushwhackers and armies tore through the land, destroying homes, businesses, and families. In the early 1900s race riots drove out most of Harrison’s African American population and a railroad strike led to vandalism and a hanging.

A County is Born
James and Mary Snelson

James O. and Mary Snelson Nicholson, early pioneers, about 1900. J. W. Nicholson/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-7)

In the 1830s and 1840s, homesteaders looking for free land came by river and military road to the area then known as Carroll County.  They built log cabins, hunted and farmed, established post offices, and started businesses such as general stores and a bear-grease rendering plant (for lamp oil).

Sen. James T. Hopper, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s

Senator James Townsend “Town” Hopper, sponsor of legislation to create Boone County, early 1900s. Jessalee Nash/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-69)

After the strife of the Civil War, Union and Confederate forces fought once again, but this time for positions of leadership.  James Townsend Hopper, a former Union soldier, was elected to the state Senate.  There he sponsored legislation to create a new county, since local government was controlled by ex-Confederates.  In April 1869, with the help of a Republican legislature, land from the east side of Carroll County was taken and Boone County was born.

Ed Pendley house under construction, near Hill Top, 1913. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-50)

The County Seat
Town Square, Harrison, Arkansas, circa 1910.

Looking southwest at Harrison, with the courthouse in the center, about 1910. Mrs. F. L. Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-23)

When Boone County was created in 1869, Harrison became the county seat. Originally called Crooked Creek, the name was changed when Captain Henry W. Fick asked civil engineer M. LaRue Harrison, both former Union soldiers, to survey the town. Fick was Harrison’s postmaster and developed many business interests in the pro-Union, pro-Republican town.

A few years later folks petitioned to move the county seat to Bellefonte, a long-established community that had supported the Confederacy. Worried about losing business in Harrison, Fick found like-minded former Confederates to help him campaign. It was a close vote, but the seat stayed in Harrison. Residents’ fears of violence from the losing side came to nothing.

Courthouse construction crew, Boone County, Arkansas, about 1907

Courthouse construction crew, Harrison, about 1907. The previous courthouse burned down in 1906. Robert Flippo/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-50)

For many years the county seat of Harrison looked like the Old West with dirt streets, roaming livestock, and the dangerous “Dead Man’s Corner,” scene of many a fight and shooting.

Harrison grew dramatically in population with the coming of the railroad in 1901. More people meant more businesses, homes, and infrastructure—things like sewers, roads, and utilities.

The town’s first street improvement district was created in 1924. Streets in the business district were paved and a sewer system was built. But by 1936 only 10 percent of the town’s streets were surfaced. Believing Harrison couldn’t continue to grow without improvement, downtown merchant Layton Coffman successfully led a campaign to pave streets citywide.

Digging for sewer mains, Harrison, Arkansas, October 1925.

Digging for sewer mains, Harrison, October 1925. W. Carl Smith, photographer. Ada Lee Shook Collection (S-98-85-1646)

Springs and Creeks
Bellefonte Spring, Boone County, Arkansas, circa 1912

Bellefonte Spring, about 1912. Bellefonte (“beautiful fountain”) was one of many communities founded around a spring. Eula Albright/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-58)

Springs and creeks were important to settlers. Creeks provided energy for grist mills and cotton gins. Springs offered medicinal and business opportunities. In the 1880s, Eureka Springs in nearby Carroll County became a prosperous health resort as people flocked to “take the waters” and cure their ailments.

Boone County had three resorts. The most popular was in the town of Elixir Springs, where the spring’s water was said to cure rheumatism and blood diseases. About 1,000 people lived and worked in the town in the early 1880s. But the resort and the town’s life were short lived. By 1892 it and another resort at Tom Thumb Springs were long gone.

One of the Valley (or Double) Springs, about 1925. Eula Albright/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-2)

Mountain Meadows Massacre
Milum Spring, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s

Milum Spring, south of Harrison, early 1900s. Roger V. Logan Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-59)

In April 1857, under the leadership of Captain Alexander Fancher, a large company of County residents and others formed a caravan at Milum Spring and headed for new opportunities in California.

In September they stopped at Mountain Meadows, a valley in the Utah Territory.  There they were attacked by Mormons and Native Americans.  They battled several days, after which the survivors where allowed to leave, only to be brutally attacked one more time.  Seventeen children deemed too young to tell the tale were allowed to live.

The reasons for this terrible massacre and the actions taken by the various parties is still hotly debated by historians, descendents, and church leaders.  After many years of denial, a small monument to the victims now stands in the valley.

James Dunlap home, Boone County, Arkansas

James D. Dunlap home, early to mid-1900s. Some survivors of the Mountain Meadows massacre were raised in this home, built about 1854. Roger V. Logan Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-60-8)

Civil War
Richard and Nancy Hopper Capps, Boone County, Arkansas, early 1900s.

Richard R. and Nancy A. Hopper Capps, near Hopewell, early 1900s. Capps first served in Co. H, 2nd Regiment Missouri Light Artillery (a Union force). Roger V. Logan, Jr./Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-44)

In the hills of Northern Arkansas, where slavery wasn’t as common as it was in the Delta, most folks weren’t interested in leaving the Union. After much legislative debate and voting, Arkansas seceded in May 1861. County residents were forced to choose sides—Union or Confederate.

Most of the county’s men formed companies and went off to fight. Some saw action at the Battles of Pea Ridge and Prairie Grove. Those left behind faced hardships, too. Armies destroyed a gunpowder mill on Crooked Creek and a niter works (explosives) at Dubuque and they took livestock, food, and grain. Violent bushwhackers took what was left and often burned homes when they weren’t satisfied.

Col. Eli Dodson, Boone County, early 1900s.

Colonel Eli Dodson, early 1900s. He served in the 14th Arkansas Infantry Confederate (organized in Boone County) and later as county judge. Martha Sisco/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-57)

Homes and Farms
Reverend W.R. “Buck” Burnett family, Hill Top, Boone County, Arkansas, 1908.

Reverend W.R. “Buck” Burnett family, Hill Top, 1908. Burnett was a Freewill Baptist minister who preached without pay. His daughter-in-law, who was ashamed of this house with its pigs in the yard, hid this photo for many years. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-132)

The first settlers built hand-hewn log cabins and lived a simple, hard life. As communities and towns grew, roads and a railroad were built. New architectural styles and fancy construction materials made their way into the county, allowing prosperous businessmen to build large, showy homes.

By the early 1900s many in the African American community in Harrison owned their own homes. They were often located in the less desirable parts of the town, although a few families lived in white neighborhoods.

Charles W. Czech home on South Pine Street, Harrison, Arkansas, early 1900s.

Charles W. Czech home on South Pine Street, Harrison, early 1900s. Czech owned the Jersey Roller Mill which was known for its quality flours and meals (coarse-ground grains). Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-28)

Boone County’s prairies and cleared lands offered farmers a good place to plant crops and feed their livestock. An 1883 newspaper article declared that county soil was “well adapted to the production of corn, wheat, cotton, tobacco, grass, sorghum, oats, barley, etc., etc.”

Early settlers grew vegetables and grains to feed themselves.  It was only later that crops were grown for market. In 1905 the Lead Hill area shipped out about 5,000 bales of cotton. In 1913 “Black Ben Davis” apples were shipped from the Hickory Grove farm near Harrison.

Threshing on the Vol Denton farm, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas, June 30, 1911.

Threshing on the Vol Denton farm, Alpena, June 30, 1911. As a stream-driven thresher moved its way through the fields, the top rails of a split-rail fence were often fed as fuel into the firebox; the rails were later replaced. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-49)

Businesses
E. G. Whitaker General Store, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas,about 1909.

E. G. Whitaker General Store, Alpena, about 1909. Nancy Barron/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-44)

Soon after settlers first arrived in the county, businesses like general stores began to spring up. By 1885 Harrison had a number of stores that sold food, medicine, clothing, furniture, saddles, and hardware. Specialized shops included a bakery, ice cream and candy makers, and a man who made tinware. Residents from neighboring communities flocked to town on Saturdays to shop and socialize.

The coming of the railroad in 1901 meant that more goods were brought into the county and farm products and natural resources like lumber and ores were sent to market. In the 1910s fresh eggs were shipped to Memphis in railroad cars cooled with ice.

Bank of Harrison, Harrison, Boone County, Arkansas,about 1895.

Bank of Harrison, Harrison, about 1895. Garvin Fitton/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-37)

Cotton gin, Everton, Boone County, Arkansas,circa 1900.

Cotton gin, Everton, about 1900. Gladys McKay/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-55)

Cotton gin, Everton, Boone County, Arkansas,circa 1900.

Cotton gin, Everton, about 1900. Gladys McKay/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-127-55)


By 1847 four legal, tax-paying distilleries operated in Carroll County. Many more illegal stills were likely hidden in the hills by folks who refused to pay the alcohol tax. The manufacture of moonshine grew in the 1890s when the government raised alcohol taxes, and from 1915 to 1935 during Prohibition, when alcohol was severely limited nationwide.

After World War II, returning veterans found their county overrun with bootleggers. They re-sold alcohol illegally at a premium to folks who lived in a “dry” county like Boone which didn’t allow alcohol sales. Determined to put an end to the lawbreakers, one group pushed for the legalization of alcohol sales while another tried to rid local government of do-nothing officials.

In the end, it took a double murder on the Harrison square in 1946 before the town’s sheriff and city administration finally dealt with the lawlessness.

Legal still #51, near Hurricane Cave, Boone County, Arkansas, circa1900.

Legal still #51, near Hurricane Cave, circa 1900. Red Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-86)

Education
Shady Grove School, Boone County, Arkansas, October 10, 1913.

Shady Grove School, October 10, 1913. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-12)

Early county schools were one-room log buildings, with one teacher for all grades.  Rural students tended to complete fewer grades and had shorter terms than students in town.  This was due in part to community funding problems and the students’ need to work at home and on the farm.

In the 1870s academies were established in Bellefonte, Rally Hill, and Valley Springs.  The Harrison College and Normal Institute (a training school for teachers) was later established for females.  These schools provided a comprehensive education for those who could afford the fees.  Big towns like Harrison built impressive public schools.

During the 20th century consolidation reduced the number of school districts from 99 to six.  By 1935 every student had access to a high school education.

The Railroad
t. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad train on Long Creek trestle, Alpena, Boone County, Arkansas,April 15, 1901.

St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad train on Long Creek trestle, Alpena, April 15, 1901. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-94)

In 1883 a railway line was built into Carroll County, spurring economic growth and tourism. Boone County wanted an extension of the line, but the expense and difficulty of building in the mountains kept financial backers away.

Alpena depot, Boone County, Arkansas,1902.

Alpena depot, 1902. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-85-27-29)

For 20 years folks made do with a daily stagecoach run between Eureka Springs and Harrison. Eventually backers were found and residents gave land and cash to smooth the way. In March 1901 the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railroad steamed into Harrison where it was greeted with band music and speeches. Later the line pushed eastward into the county and became the Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad.

The railroad brought goods and people into the county and sent produce, livestock, and natural resources like timber and mineral ores all over the nation.


Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad shops, looking northwest, Harrison, Arkansas, circa 1915.

Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad shops, looking northwest, Harrison, about 1915. Mrs. F. L. Coffman/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-129-47)

The Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad had a troubled existence. By 1921 financial problems led to a major wage cut. Union workers went on strike and the line closed down, causing hardship for many families and businesses. Although a group of investors bought the railroad and resumed operations, the workers remained on strike.

Tensions increased in Harrison as strike-breakers crossed the picket line and vandalism occurred. On January 14, 1923, hundreds of armed men arrived by train and car. They searched homes for union literature and firearms, threatened strikers, and burned the Union Hall. The violence grew. Before it was over one man was hanged from a railroad bridge. Fearing for their lives, strikers and their families fled. The union was busted.

Another strike in 1946 effectively ended the railroad line.

African Americans
 Vannie, a cook in Harrison, Arkansas,, about 1900.

Vannie, a Harrison cook, about 1900. Garvin Fitton/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-2)

In 1900 just over 100 African Americans lived in Harrison, which had a total population of more than 1,500. Many had been in the area for a long time and had established churches, a school, and businesses. A division existed along race lines but, for the most part, life was peaceful. Things changed as racial intolerance spread across the country and “justice” increasingly meant the use of violence.

Tensions increased in Harrison when a number of homeless, unemployed African-American railroad laborers came to town. In 1905 a black man was jailed for breaking into a home. Mob violence erupted and blacks were beaten and their homes burned. Many fled for their lives, never to return. Three years later a youth was accused of robbery and rape. Once again the black community feared mob violence and fled. By 1910 “Aunt Vine” Smith was the only African American left in Harrison.

The 2010 census listed a few dozen blacks in Boone County, home to the Arkansas faction of the Knights of the Ku Klux Klan.

Mining and Timber
Gloria Mines, Zinc, Boone County, Arkansas, circa 1916.

Gloria Mines, Zinc, about 1916. Fay Hodge/Harrison Daily Times [published 11-14-1986] (S-88-36-3)

Town names such as Lead Hill and Zinc attest to the importance of mining in Boone County. In the1850s small mines near Dubuque and Lead Hill used crude smelters to extract lead from rock.

Mining began in earnest in the 1870s and it was hard work. Hand tools were used to dig pits in the ground or shafts into the sides of mountain. Tons of ore-bearing rock were processed on site or sent to distant smelters. In 1886, 33 wagon-loads of ore (34,320 pounds) were shipped from the Bonanza Mine near Lead Hill down the White River to Batesville, and then on to St. Louis by rail.

A zinc “rush” began around 1899. Zinc was used as a pigment in paints, for battery electrodes, and for galvanizing iron. During World War I zinc prices soared only to fall at war’s end. Many mines were abandoned and towns shrank or disappeared.


Cutting staves, Richland Creek, early 1900s.

Cutting staves, Richland Creek, early 1900s. Earl Henry/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-128-34)

Early settlers found large stands of oak, hickory, cedar, walnut, cherry, and pine.  Railroads headed for Northwest Arkansas in the 1880s in part to take advantage of its vast timber reserves.  Logging became a major industry, creating jobs and boom towns along the line.

Once saws and axes felled the giant trees, teams of mules hauled the logs to sawmills and factories where the timber was turned into barrel staves, railroad ties, lumber, fence posts, and tool handles.  When the trees were gone in one area, operations moved to the next.  New settlers farmed the cleared land.

A circa-1883 forestry report predicted a 300-year supply of timber.  By the 1920s the forests were largely gone.  The timber boom was over.

Gatherings
Methodist Sunday School group enjoying dinner on the ground, Wilson Spring, Boone County, Arkansas,early 1900s.

Methodist Sunday School group enjoying dinner on the ground, Wilson Spring, early 1900s. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-71)

People came together in a variety of ways.  Picnics on the Fourth of July were common, as were “dinners on the ground,” often organized by churches.  On Decoration Day families tidied up cemeteries and placed flowers on graves.  Log-raisings to build barns and homes were held when a new family moved into the neighborhood.  The Boone County fair started in 1887 and offered livestock contests, mule racing, and arts and crafts exhibitions.

Traveling preachers held meetings and sometimes debated one another.  Fiddle music and dancing were popular but some churches frowned on this pastime. “Play parties” were a way to get around this.  Rather than use instruments to make music, songs were sung and participants did a type of square dance.

In all of these activities, folks had a chance to get together to strengthen community and social bonds and meet eligible partners.


Independence Day celebration, Hill Top, Boone County, Arkansas,1910s.

Independence Day celebration, Hill Top, 1910s. The women may be students of the Hill Top Mission School. Steve Erwin Collection (S-97-144-86)

For many decades Independence Day was a time for communities to come together and have a good time.

The town of Harrison was incorporated in March 1876.  In celebration, city fathers planned a grand event for the Fourth of July which, that year, fell on the Centennial of the nation’s founding.  Over 3,000 folks listened to bands, picnicked, heard readings of the Declaration of Independence and other patriotic speeches, and watched fireworks.

A joust was held at the race track.  Men riding horses and holding pointed sticks raced towards posts that held rings suspended by wire.  The winner was the first to spear the ring with his stick.  First prize was $20.


Riverside baptism at Omaha, Boone County, Arkansas,1909.

Riverside baptism at Omaha, 1909. Brother Voiles, minister. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-125)

Early settlers brought their religion with them, often worshipping in their homes.  One of the first churches was Crooked Creek Primitive Baptist Church, founded in 1834.  Churches formed and split frequently as communities changed or members differed on church teachings.

Traveling preachers and circuit riders (pastors on horseback who visited the several churches in their care every few weeks) held services where they could—in homes, fields, and even the county courthouse.  A revival meeting at Harrison led to several baptisms and the 1890 formation of the First Baptist Church.

A mission school was founded in Hill Top.  In Harrison the Methodists built a college, only to have it burn down before school started.

 

1921 Bank Robbery
William J. Meyers, early 1900s.

William J. Meyers, early 1900s. Robert Raley/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-1)

In February 1921 notorious outlaw Henry Starr was one of several men who tried to rob the Peoples National Bank on Harrison’s square.  Before the robbery they cut telephone lines and surveyed the bank and square.

The bank’s former president, William J. Meyers, happened to be in the bank that day.  Once the cashier opened the safe the thieves began grabbing money.  A distraction caused by an uncooperative patron turned their attention away from the safe, allowing Meyers a chance to grab the .38 caliber Winchester rifle stored in the vault.  He shot and wounded Starr.  Starr told his men to flee; eventually they were caught and tried.  Starr died a few days after the robbery.

Henry Starr, Harrison, Arkansas, February 1921.

Henry Starr, Harrison, February 1921. Robert Raley/Boone County Library Collection (S-87-38-31)

Scenes of Carroll County

Scenes of Carroll County

Online Exhibit
19th Century Settlement
Modified section from 1901

Modified section from 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” George F. Cram, Chicago

For a time the area now called Carroll County was the hunting grounds for the Osage. But they were forced out as white settlement in the East began pushing other Native American groups west. In 1838 about 16,000 Native Americans were forcibly removed from their ancestral homes, moving through Arkansas to Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) along the “Trail of Tears.” Some 1,200 Cherokees and enslaved people followed the Benge Route through Carroll County, from Osage and Carrollton in the east down to Huntsville (Madison County) and beyond.

Carroll County was formed in 1833. It was named for Charles Carroll of Maryland, the last surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence. The county’s boundaries changed frequently in its early years. Created from Izard County, land was added or taken from Madison, Searcy, Newton, and Boone counties.

Early settlers built log homes, farmed the land, established communities, and organized churches, schools, businesses, and governmental agencies. Some settlers brought enslaved people to work for them, but these African Americans were only a fraction of the county’s population. Still, families and neighbors split their loyalties during the Civil War over the issues of slavery and states’ rights. While no major battles were fought in Carroll County, skirmishes and lawless bushwhackers caused much harm.

19th Century Settlement
Modified section from 1901

Modified section from 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” George F. Cram, Chicago

For a time the area now called Carroll County was the hunting grounds for the Osage. But they were forced out as white settlement in the East began pushing other Native American groups west. In 1838 about 16,000 Native Americans were forcibly removed from their ancestral homes, moving through Arkansas to Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) along the “Trail of Tears.” Some 1,200 Cherokees and enslaved people followed the Benge Route through Carroll County, from Osage and Carrollton in the east down to Huntsville (Madison County) and beyond.

Carroll County was formed in 1833. It was named for Charles Carroll of Maryland, the last surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence. The county’s boundaries changed frequently in its early years. Created from Izard County, land was added or taken from Madison, Searcy, Newton, and Boone counties.

Early settlers built log homes, farmed the land, established communities, and organized churches, schools, businesses, and governmental agencies. Some settlers brought enslaved people to work for them, but these African Americans were only a fraction of the county’s population. Still, families and neighbors split their loyalties during the Civil War over the issues of slavery and states’ rights. While no major battles were fought in Carroll County, skirmishes and lawless bushwhackers caused much harm.

20th-Century Growth
Poultry processing plant, Berryville or Green Forest, Arkansas, 1960s-1970s.

Poultry processing plant, Berryville or Green Forest, 1960s-1970s. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-86-211-46)

The railroad was a driving force in determining whether a town prospered or faded. When Alpena Pass was created along the Missouri & North Arkansas Railroad in 1900, Carrollton merchants moved their businesses and buildings to the new town. The railroad allowed markets to grow. Farmers grew fruit and vegetables to take advantage of the many canneries springing up, while sawmill operators turned trees into such materials as lumber, railroad ties, and barrel staves. Eureka Springs faded as medical practices evolved and the railroad moved its jobs to Boone County.

Carroll County wasn’t wealthy in the early part of the 20th century, so its largely rural, self-sustaining residents were better prepared to weather the economic woes of the Great Depression. Federally sponsored New Deal projects helped employ citizens in the 1930s. Workers built a gymnasium for Berryville, a water tower for Green Forest, an elementary school for Osage, and the Lake Leatherwood Park complex for Eureka. The Rural Electrification Act of 1936 provided federal loans to install electrical distribution systems. In 1938 Carroll Electric Cooperative of Berryville began constructing power lines, bringing power to many. Today their lines stretch across Northwest Arkansas and Southeast Missouri.

During World War II residents left to serve in the armed forces or work in war-related industries. But several factors led to later growth in population and economic opportunities. Large-scale chicken and turkey farming began in the 1950s when Berryville businessmen formed Carroll County Food Products. After Tyson Foods purchased the plant in the early 1970s, the county saw an influx of Latino residents. The construction of Table Rock and Beaver Lakes to the north and west brought tourism and encouraged the growth of family-style attractions such as Dinosaur World and the Great Passion Play. Eureka rebounded as a tourist destination, especially after incoming artists and others reopened long-shuttered downtown shops in the 1970s.

“The tomato industry of Carroll county ranks along with that of dairying, cattle and poultry. …The plants come into bearing about the middle of July and bear up to the middle of October, giving employment on the farm and at the canning plants at a time when most of the farm work is out of the way.”
Berryville Arkansas promotional booklet, mid-late 1930s

21st-Century Future
Beaver Dam, Carroll County, Arkansas, May 2017.

Beaver Dam, May 2017.

Today there are nearly 28,000 residents, with Berryville, Eureka Springs, and Green Forest as the county’s largest towns. Folks in Berryville and Eureka are often seen as different from one another, by outsiders and by themselves. Eurekans have a higher per-capita income than folks in Berryville, lean liberal in their politics, and look to tourism and the arts for their economy and identity. Industry is the major economic force in Berryville, politics are more conservative, and the population is twice the size of its western neighbor. With its poultry-processing plants, Tyson Foods is the largest employer in Berryville and Green Forest. Both towns have sizable, foreign-born populations.

The Carroll County Collaborative is a nonpolitical group made up of governmental, private, public, and nonprofit entities and organizations. It works to improve life for county residents and provide greater opportunities. Some of its priorities include affordable housing, new business development, conversion charter schools, and workforce development through such means as academies, incubator and apprentice programs, and a culinary institute. The Collaborative believes the county is “poised to be the next NATURAL growth area in Northwest Arkansas.”

“The Kings River divides Carroll County, and that’s where Woodstock and livestock meet.”

State Representative Bryan King of Green Forest
Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, September 19, 2010

“The nice thing about being in Berryville is you can drive ten miles west [to Eureka Springs] and it’s like you’re in a different country. You have restaurants. You have entertainment. Then you can go back home to the real world.”

Berryville Mayor Tim McKinney
Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, September 19, 2010

Carroll County Close-Ups

Early Settlers
Sneed Cemetery, Osage, Arkansas, mid-late 1900s..

Sneed Cemetery, Osage, mid-late 20th century. Saunders Memorial Museum Collection (S-86-211-74)

The first settlers were Native Americans, having moved west from their ancestral homes ahead of white migration. White chroniclers made mention of Delaware Indians on Long Creek, small bands of Shawnee near what is now Alpena, and a Cherokee settlement north of what is now Berryville. Some of these early residents married the white settlers who came from Tennessee and Kentucky primarily. Around 1820 William Sneed of Kentucky traveled to the Ozarks with his wife, children, and enslaved workers. But, before moving, he surveyed the available land, made his choice, and planted several acres of corn. Making “improvements” by clearing fields, planting crops, and building homes was an important first step when claiming land from the government. In 1830 Sneed and his son, Charles, claimed several thousand acres of the best farmland in Osage Township. Their slaves helped build the Dubuque Road—the first road in the county—from Lead Hill through Carrollton and beyond. Charles served as Carrollton’s first postmaster and as county sheriff. Early court cases were held in the Sneed home.

Some of the first businesses were grist mills, tanneries (to prepare leather), blacksmith shops, and trading posts for things the settlers couldn’t make or grow themselves. Tilford Denton and his brother moved to the county seat of Carrollton in 1837 and set up shop as merchants. One year later their merchandise was valued at $2,800. Some settlers stayed for a short while before moving on. In 1857 Captain Alexander Fancher of Osage led family members and others on a wagon train headed for new opportunities in California. When they stopped at Mountain Meadows, a valley in the Utah Territory, most were attacked and killed by Mormons and Native Americans. The reason for the massacre has been hotly debated since then.

Civil War
Civil War veterans’ reunion, Basin Spring Park, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, circa 1900.

Civil War veterans’ reunion, Basin Spring Park, Eureka Springs, circa 1900. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-45)

Arkansas seceded from the Union in 1861. Soon, Confederate and Union troops formed, pitting neighbors and family members against one another. While no major battles were fought in the county, there were several skirmishes and much guerilla activity. A group of lawless bushwhackers strung “old and feeble” Lige Massingale over a tree limb and burned his feet to get him to tell of hidden valuables. Having no luck, they set fire to his house. One legend tells how a small band of Confederates were able to capture a larger group of Union soldiers at Hog Scald Hollow by tricking them into getting drunk on corn whiskey. The soldiers seized a wagon as it was driven by their camp and discovered the liquor that had been hidden (on purpose) under the hay.

The upland counties of northern Arkansas had fewer enslaved workers than the rest of the state, owing to the hilly terrain which made plantation-style agriculture impractical. In 1860 the county’s population was just over 9,000 residents, 330 of whom where slaves. While their labor contributed to the economy, it was not a major factor. Perhaps this helps explain, in part, the formation of several Peace Societies along the state’s northern border, including one in Carroll County. While members of the societies opposed the Confederacy, they generally didn’t work against it, often preferring peaceful dissent and home protection to active conflict.

“Alsie [Holland] gathered up a heap of stones…they heard the tramp of horses’ hoofs and the renegades arrived. They came blustering in and demanded food, money and anything of value… One ruffian noticed the pile of stones on the hearth and asked what they were there for; aunt Alsie replied ‘those are secesh [secessionist] biscuits; have one’ she then proceeded to pounce the rocks on the fellow…”

Nora L. Davis Standlee
Carroll County Historical Quarterly, June 1957

Tornadoes
Tornado-damaged home, Green Forest, Arkansas, March 1927.

Tornado-damaged home, Green Forest, March 1927. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-85-14-21)

Carroll County has endured several destructive and deadly tornadoes. In 1927 nineteen people were killed and one hundred injured in Green Forest as a storm damaged the business district and destroyed about fifty homes, wrecking many more. A train car of doctors and nurses came from Harrison to help the injured, taking many to the Eureka Springs Hospital. Ten years later, Green Forest was struck again along with nearby Alpena Pass, with one person dead and twenty injured.

The worst tornado in county history struck Berryville at 10:30 p.m. on October 29, 1942. Right before the storm hit the power went out. As the Wyrick family hid under a mattress, they felt no motion as the storm picked up their house and moved it several feet. At the railroad station the tornado knocked over fifty-ton railroad cars and wrenched a baby out of its mother’s arms, badly hurting the mother and killing the child. Several businesses were demolished, including wholesale grocery houses and canneries, part of the economic lifeblood of the community. Rescuers searched for victims “by torch, flashlight, lanterns, candles, or even matches.” In all, twenty-nine people were killed, with sixty-eight seriously injured. The devastation made national news.

“They’re laying the dead out on the lawns as fast as they can get there out of the wreckage and we’re making regular trips picking up the bodies. Most of them are so badly mutilated that we can’t hope to identify them until relatives start coming in.”
Rex Nelson, undertaker
Northwest Arkansas Times, October 30, 1942

 

County Seats
Carroll County Courthouse—Eastern Judicial District, Berryville, Arkansas, about 1905.

Carroll County Courthouse—Eastern Judicial District, Berryville, about 1905. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-148)

The first seat of government was in Carrollton which, by the mid-1800s, was a large, centrally located, thriving settlement. But when Carroll County land was taken to form Boone County in 1869, Carrollton found itself on the border. A “courthouse war” erupted, pitting Carrollton against Berryville to the northwest. Petitions, elections, lawsuits, and countersuits followed as the two towns struggled for the courthouse and the prestige and revenue it would bring. In 1875, by a narrow margin of twenty-eight votes, the county seat was moved to Berryville.

Carroll County Courthouse—Western Judicial District, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, circa 1910.

Carroll County Courthouse—Western Judicial District, Eureka Springs, about 1910. Siloam Springs Museum Collection (S-83-300-72)

Across the Kings River was the new boomtown of Eureka Springs. Its residents wanted the convenience of their own courthouse, in part to avoid impassable roads due to the frequent flooding of the Kings River. In 1883 they successfully petitioned the Arkansas Legislature to form two judicial districts with the Kings River as the dividing line. By the late 1880s Green Forest challenged Berryville for its courthouse, saying the building was unsuitable and in disrepair. The votes were tallied and Berryville kept its courthouse (later moving to a modern facility in 1976). The most recent dispute occurred in 2010 when a circuit court judge, a native of Berryville, ruled to consolidate the two judicial districts into one at Berryville. He was unsuccessful. Today the former Berryville courthouse is home to the Carroll County Heritage Center while the old Eureka Springs courthouse is home to the county clerk’s office and city offices.

“I have seen thousands of Texas Longhorn steers pass through town [in front of the courthouse] in droves nearly every week in the year, as well as horses, sheep, goats and one time there was a herd of 500 turkeys…some of the merchants didn’t like the flies the stock drew, especially in warm weather.”
D. Elmer Jones, 1957
Carroll County Historical Quarterly, December 1966

 

Railroads
The first St. Louis & North Arkansas train pulling into Berryville, April 15, 1901.

The first St. Louis & North Arkansas train pulling into Berryville, April 15, 1901. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-81)

In order to continue the success of Eureka Springs, a railroad was needed to bring health- and pleasure-seekers. Former Arkansas governor Powell Clayton spearheaded a project to connect with the St. Louis & San Francisco Railroad eighteen miles north. In 1883 the Eureka Springs Railway steamed into town. Together the two railroads built and operated the magnificent Crescent Hotel. But the Eureka railroad began to lose money as the fad of “taking the waters” began to wane. It was purchased by the St. Louis & North Arkansas Railroad in 1900, which began expanding the line west. Berryville and Green Forest each offered a bonus to bring the railroad to their towns but the terrain was too difficult and therefore too costly. But Berryville persevered. Residents gave the railroad money, right-of-way, and materials to build a spur line to town. In 1901 residents greeted the train with flower-decorated carriages.

A few years later the new railroad was failing and the line switched hands again. In 1906 it became the Missouri & North Arkansas Railroad (M&NA), followed by the Missouri & Arkansas Railway in 1935 and the Arkansas and Ozarks Railway in 1949. While the railroads had some successful years, there were many problems. The line was abandoned in 1961. In recent years the county has been home to two short, standard-gauge tourist railroads. The Eureka Springs Railroad operated out of Beaver for a time in the 1970s and early 1980s, but didn’t prove successful. The Eureka Springs & North Arkansas Railway, begun in 1981, operates out of the historic 1913 M&NA depot.

“Eureka Springs and Green Forest turned out in masses to help Berryville celebrate the arrival of the first train within her borders and rejoices with her in her good fortune. There is a popular superstition that these towns are jealous of each other, but no suspicion of such a situation showed up on this wonderful day . . .”
Berryville Progress, June 1901

Education
Clarke’s Academy, Berryville, Arkansas, 1913.

Clarke’s Academy, Berryville, 1913. Pennington, photographer. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-85-18-18)

Early Carroll County schools were subscription-based, meaning that students paid for their education. Professor Isaac A. Clarke founded an academy in Berryville in 1867, growing from twenty-five students to one hundred by the end of the first term. In 1879 first level tuition was $10, while Latin and Greek was $12.50 extra. The academy served students for nearly forty years. The Carrollton Academy began in 1877 as a “normal school,” where young men and women trained to be teachers. Years later the school’s 200 students “lined up in front of [their] old building with slates, dinner pails and books to march across town and occupy [their] new building.”

Osage Elementary School students with teacher Naomi McMorris (middle row, far left), 1939-1940.

Osage Elementary School students with teacher Naomi McMorris (middle row, far left), 1939-1940. The building was constructed by Works Progress Administration workers as part of New Deal relief efforts. Ruth Sisco Curnutt Collection (S-85-284-76)

Eureka Springs had several small schools in its early years, including one for the children of African-American servants of wealthy vacationers. By the 1900s there were many small public school districts throughout the county, some with fanciful names like Blue Eye, Welcome Home, Grassy Nob, Parrott, Bobo, Gobbler, Snow, Possum Trot, and Hottentott. When Mabel Cripps Wilson began her teaching career in 1923 in the White Oak community, students walked one or two miles to school, brought their lunches in Karo syrup buckets, and went without shoes until the weather turned cold. These rural, one-room schools faded as communities dwindled and schools were consolidated in 1965. Today’s schools are in Eureka, Berryville, and Green Forest.

“Parents and guardians, confiding their children and wards in our care, may rest assured no effort will be spared to secure the development of mental powers and the lasting influences of moral principles upon the mind.”
Isaac A. Clarke
Clarke’s Academy for Males and Females, August 15, 1879

Sports and Recreation
Basketball team, Green Forest, Arkansas, 1916

Basketball team, Green Forest, 1916. From left: Hattie Belle, Ruth, Ethel, Eloda, Rhea, Hazel, and Augusta. James and Sue Eldridge Collection (S-96-2-940)

Baseball teams began to form in Carroll County in the 1880s in such communities as Beaver, Denver, Farewell, Eureka Springs, Oak Grove, and Rule. During the summer special excursion trains brought crowds to the baseball field near Beaver. Public schools in the county’s larger communities fielded sports teams, including basketball for girls. In 1924 Eureka Mayor Claude A. Fuller received $500 towards the construction of Harmon Park. Wealthy New Yorker William E. Harmon provided money to construct playgrounds, because he wanted to provide “inspirational and tangible help for young people.” The Harmon Foundation recently donated funds towards the construction of a skate park, an ADA-accessible playground, and a future spray park.

The Saunders Memorial Muzzleloading Shoot began in 1954 in honor of Colonel C. Burton “Buck” Saunders, a longtime Berryville resident who was a skillful marksman and collector of unique firearms. Activities at Luther Owen’s Muzzle Loading Park include firearm matches, camping, and the sale of black-powder merchandise. In 1930 Albert Ingalls, Eureka Springs mayor and president of Crescent College, wanted a basketball team for the girls’ school. Hearing about a winning team in Sparkman, Arkansas (southeast of Hot Springs), he sent his wife Leila to recruit the girls. The Crescent Comets practiced in the basement of the city auditorium, running the distance from the Crescent Hotel and back. The team won two national championships.

“We loved it… And even though the school was for rich girls, our team [the Crescent Comets] was accepted with kindness from the regular students. …We got to dance in the lobby with all the other girls and we looked just as nice. Mrs. Ingalls saw to it. Before the college’s first formal, she bought each member of our team a formal gown from a fancy dress shop in Springfield [Missouri] so we could go and feel like we fit in.”
Mabel Blakely Williams
1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa blog, posted September 29, 2012

Junior basketball team, Berryville Public School, 1947.

Junior basketball team, Berryville Public School, 1947. Back, from left: Jack Edens, Jerry Hill(?), James Graim, and coach E. S. Bigham. Front, from left: Clyde Cummings, Gerald Spitz, unidentified, and Leslie Stidham. Ann Bigham Engskov Collection (S-2016-44-25)

Health
Health seekers by spring, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, circa 1881

Health seekers by spring, Eureka Springs, about 1881. F. F. Fyler, photographer. Eureka Springs Carnegie Public Library Collection (S-83-325-39)

Carroll County’s first doctor may have been Arthur A. Baker, a blacksmith who taught himself medicine by reading books. Working first out of Carrollton and later Berryville, he traveled many miles by horseback to treat neighbors in need. In 1879 Dr. Alvah Jackson treated a patient suffering from severe skin disease using water from a healing spring. His miracle cure at Basin Spring led to a massive influx of health-seekers and entrepreneurs into what would become Eureka Springs. More springs were discovered, their mineral content tested, and their curative powers touted. Eureka went from a campsite to a town of nearly 4,000 in the space of one year. Entrepreneurs built fancy hotels, bathhouses, and sanitariums to treat the infirm. The springs were said to cure a host of illnesses including rheumatism, catarrh (inflammation of mucus membranes), tuberculosis, hay fever, diabetes, dyspepsia (indigestion), asthma, jaundice, malaria, paralysis, neuralgia (intense nerve pain), gout, cancer, dropsy (excess fluid in tissues or body cavities), and “female troubles.”

Frances Kerens felt that Eureka’s Catholic community needed a religious order to “help solve the problems of those in need of spiritual replenishing.” In 1900 land was purchased for the Hotel Dieu Hospital. Run by the Sisters of Mercy Motherhouse in St. Louis, the facility included a convent, school, chapel, surgical wing, and twenty-five-bed hospital. Financial problems led to its closure in 1913. An infamous chapter in Eureka’s medical history began in 1937 when Norman Baker purchased the shuttered Crescent Hotel to open a cancer hospital. A long-time quack who made millions by swindling the ill with bogus cancer treatments, he was finally sent to jail in 1940.

Other early hospitals include the Don Sawyer Memorial Hospital (now the Eureka Springs Hospital) and the Gentry Hospital in Berryville. In the 1930s and early 1940s, Vera Gentry was a midwife who ran a hospital in her home, welcoming about 300 babies into the world. Doctors used her hospital to perform tonsillectomies and appendectomies. Gentry’s hospital closed when Dr. Parker and Dr. Carter’s eleven-bed hospital opened in town, which in turn closed in 1969, shortly before the opening of Carroll General Hospital (now Mercy Hospital Berryville). Money for the facility came from a county tax and a grant. In 2016 the hospital caused some concern when it ended several services, including emergency ambulance, home health, and hospice.

Eureka Springs Memorial Hospital administrator Leonard Pratt with staff, January 10, 1974.

Eureka Springs Memorial Hospital administrator Leonard Pratt with staff, January 10, 1974. Springdale News Collection (SN 1-10-1974)

The rise of Eureka as a spa town coincided with the end of the nation’s interest in “taking the waters.” Many factors contributed to bring this about including major advancements in science, improvements in the standards of medical care, and the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906. By the 1910s the grand Crescent Hotel had closed its doors and fewer health-seekers came to town. As Eureka transformed into a tourist town, interest in saving the springs grew. Preservationists restored several springs and their protective structures. Today they are open to the public, although they bear signs warning folks against drinking contaminated water.

“People who have been bedridden sufferers for years come here, drink the waters, and get well, often in a very incredibly short time… Ladies who have languished for years in their terrible mind-wrecking and body-destroying ills arrive here and in a few months at the furthest, are seen with the bloom of health upon their cheeks and rejoicing in restored womanhood.”
Eureka Springs Daily Democrat, December 17, 1891

Natural Resources
Young ‘possum hunters, Oak Grove, about 1917.

Young ‘possum hunters, Oak Grove, about 1917. From left: Ertie Allen, Gilbert Wiley, and Eli Shahan. At the time, a properly tanned hide could bring up to twenty-five cents. Larry Parmlee Collection (S-85-5-17)

When settlers first came to Carroll County they found abundant natural resources—timber and stone to build with, animal pelts to trade for cash and goods, and plentiful game and fish to eat. One story tells of two women from the Beaver community who, having lost food and livestock to Civil War bushwhackers, were desperate to feed their families. They killed a number of deer by herding them into the woods and flapping their aprons to drive the deer off a high bluff to their death. In recent years the deer population in Eureka Springs had grown so large that, after much opposition, an urban deer hunt was organized in 2013 for bowhunters.

Some of the earliest sawmills were located on the Dry Fork Creek in 1840s. In the days when land could be claimed from the federal government by “improving” and using it, Franzisca Massman of the fast-growing town of Eureka stayed one step ahead of the law. She would find a choice spot (even if it had already been claimed by someone else), erect a cabin, move in a few furnishings, cook a meal, and plow a patch of ground. Once the usable timber had been cut she moved to a new claim. By the 1900s an expanding railroad allowed sawmills to ship lumber, barrel staves, and railroad ties throughout the region. Sawmill operations continued well into the 20th century, with operators producing oak flooring, shipping pallets, and pine posts treated with creosote.

A. L. Hanby’s steam-powered sawmill, Winona, Arkansas, 1890s-1900s.

A. L. Hanby’s steam-powered sawmill, Winona, 1890s-1900s. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-84-211-186)

Rumors of vast oil fields in Northwest Arkansas led to the Sure Pop oil well in Eureka in 1921. Promoted by a Texas driller who promised great wealth, business leaders raised $10,000 to buy land. A derrick was built, oil leases were sold, a barbecue was held for 2,500, and newspapers told of the progress at the well site. But the well was never drilled and the Texas promoter left town after the derrick burned down mysteriously. Sure Pop shareholders with left with worthless leases.

The Crescent Hotel and other buildings in Eureka were built using high-quality, local limestone. The Eureka Stone Company, founded in 1904, used the railroad to ship its product throughout the region. When building projects grew scarce, the company fell dormant. In the late 1970s stonemason Don Underwood bought modern equipment and reopened the quarry. Today the company supplies stone for commercial and residential projects throughout Northwest Arkansas and the region. It also takes on restoration projects of some of Eureka’s old buildings and walkways.

“…Ab [Hanby] inherited a disposition to work…he acquired the habit of greasing his muscles with brains, so to speak, and as a result he has sawed more lumber for homes in the Eastern District of Carroll County than any other three men who have been engaged in the lumber business here. He has in time owned no less than forty different mills, having a dozen or more in operation at one time.”
Green Forest Tribune, December 19, 1913

Dr. Alonzo E. Quinn (left) and stonemasons, Grandview, Arkansas, 1890s.

Dr. Alonzo E. Quinn (left) and stonemasons, Grandview, 1890s. June Crane Collection (S-89-12-1)

Agriculture
Cans stacked outside the Hays Canning Company, Oak Grove, Arkansas, 1910s.

Cans stacked outside the Hays Canning Company, Oak Grove, 1910s. Larry Parmlee Collection (S-85-5-29)

By 1913 there were large-scale canneries at Berryville, Urbanette, and Green Forest, with the latter shipping 8,000 cases of apples, 6,000 cases of tomatoes, and 6,000 cases of peaches that year. Wheat was an important crop and kept the flour mills in Green Forest, Urbanette, Yocum, and Berryville grinding away. Flour was shipped regionally and even overseas during World War I. By the 1920s the boom-and-bust cycle of crops forced farmers to diversify. Tomatoes were grown in the 1930s, supplying around thirty canneries before the industry declined from disease and the “labor-intensive nature of the tomato business.”

Dairy herds became big business for a time. In the early 1930s the Berryville Cheese Factory operated out of the basement of a hardware store. Later a large stone building was purchased where cans of milk were brought, pasteurized, and made into cheese. Kraft Foods purchased the business in 1946 and modernized the plant, offering high-paying jobs to local workers. The plant closed in 1985, in part due to improvements made to Kraft’s Benton County facility.

Tomato harvest, Oak Grove, 1910s.

Tomato harvest, Oak Grove, 1910s. Larry Parmlee Collection (S-85-5-34)

While Eureka Springs’ economy shifted from healing springs to tourism over the years, agriculture-related businesses continue to be a mainstay in the rest of the county. In the 1960s Green Forest was home to two of the state’s thirty beekeepers who rented their hives to commercial fruit growers for crop pollination. Three Berryville businessmen started Carroll County Food Products in 1951, processing chickens and turkeys. By 1971 the plant was owned by Tyson Foods. Today Tyson employs nearly 3,000 county residents in several poultry-related businesses, including processing plants in Berryville and Green Forest, making for an annual payroll of $138 million. Tyson, Walmart, Carroll Electric Cooperative Corporation, and Mercy Hospital are the county’s largest employers.

“…the short nutritious grasses have proved to not only contain sufficient nourishment to sustain the life of large herds of cattle, but to actually fatten them during the winter months, and it is an actual fact that thousands of cattle and hogs are bred, born, and raised on the large areas of free range, brought to town, and shipped to market without ever seeing a grain of corn in their lives.”
Oak Leaves, 1914

Diversity
African Methodist Episcopal Church members at Harding Spring, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, late 1910s.

African Methodist Episcopal Church members at Harding Spring, Eureka Springs, late 1910s. Harding was the only spring open to African Americans. Eureka Springs Historical Museum Collection (S-99-66-359)

Carroll County’s African American population has always been small in comparison to its white population. In 1860 there were a little over 9,000 residents, 330 of whom were enslaved workers. After the Civil War only thirty-seven former slaves stayed in the area. But the new boomtown of Eureka Springs offered economic opportunities. Blacks owned boarding houses and worked in bathhouses, hotels, laundries, and barbershops. They improved their community by building homes, establishing a school, and organizing an African Methodist-Episcopal Church. But they were segregated from the white community—limited by where they could live, work, shop, and spend leisure time. As the health resort faded in the early 1900s, many moved away.

Berryville was considered a “sundown town.” It’s said that signs were still posted in the 1950s warning blacks not to stay past nightfall. Today the county is largely white, with a few folks self-identifying as African American, Native American, Asian, and Pacific Islander. There is a sizable Latino population, many of whom work in the poultry industry.

“Uncle Dick Fancher . . . was buried in the colored people’s cemetery [in Eureka Springs]… He was sold as a slave at auction here in Berryville when he was but ten years old and was bought…for $400 [in 1848].”
Benton County Democrat, May 11, 1911

Back to the Land
“First Dance” at the Ozark Mountain Folkfair, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, May 1973.

“First Dance” at the Ozark Mountain Folkfair, Eureka Springs, May 1973. A singer with the Lewis Family (center) dances with a Folkfair staff member. Albert Skiles, photographer. Courtesy Albert Skiles.

In the 1970s Northwest Arkansas saw an influx of young adults seeking a simpler, more meaningful life. Edd Jeffords of Eureka Springs published the Ozark Access Catalog, with tips about buying land and planning a garden. He told newcomers to work hard and “learn about the lives and customs of the people they were living beside.” Over twenty folks lived in the Lothlorien commune near Berryville. They helped their neighbors with farm chores and paid their electric bills by working as waitresses, artisans, and the like. In 1973 Jeffords helped put together the Ozark Mountain Folkfair, a three-day event featuring such musicians as John Lee Hooker and the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band. Thousands of youngsters braved heavy rain, mud, and ticks to attend.

Some folks accepted and helped the newcomers while others saw them as immoral hippies and drug addicts who took advantage of the welfare system. In 1972 the Eureka Springs Times-Echo warned of a “well-oiled plot” by the “longhairs” to take over city government. Back-to-the-landers moved into Eureka’s vacant storefronts, selling such things as health food, handmade leather items, and even a “Christ of the Ozarks marijuana cigarette clip.” While some moved away in the 1980s, others stayed and became teachers, artists, and city-council members. Richard Schoeninger, who came to Eureka to edit an underground newspaper, served as mayor in the late 1980s. He jokingly reported two problems with his job—following rules and wearing underwear.

“In not voting, you gave up your right to vote for someone else—who, for all you know, was a Communist, an extremist of one sort or another, or a hippie who has added nothing to the community…”
Dick Fisher, editor, Eureka Springs Times-Echo
Arkansas Gazette, June 25, 1972

“The polite woman who waits on you in any café may likely as not be ‘an extremist of one sort or another’ during her free time. People here are employed making looms, rewiring houses…dishwashing…teaching horseback riding… We certainly haven’t hurt the town economically.”
Maren Statts
Arkansas Gazette, June 25, 1972

Entertainment and Tourism
Joanie O’Bryant performing at the City Auditorium, Ozark Folk Festival, Eureka Springs, October 1962.

Joanie O’Bryant performing at the City Auditorium, Ozark Folk Festival, Eureka Springs, October 1962. Ernie Deane, photographer. Frances Deane Alexander Collection (S-2012-137-628)

James Braswell of Green Forest has been called the “Stephen Foster of the Ozarks” after the 19th-century’s great American songwriter. In 1890 at age seventeen he became the director of the Green Forest Cornet Band. He wrote his first song, “Meet Me at the Basin While in Eureka Springs” when he was hired one summer to play cornet in the resort town. Back then, Eureka residents enjoyed special July 4th excursions on the Eureka Springs Railway, riding on flatcars across the White River bridge near Beaver to picnic, play baseball, and watch fireworks.

Recreation lovers use Carroll County as their jumping-off point to take advantage of camping, hiking, fishing, hunting, and boating opportunities at Beaver Lake to the west and Missouri’s Table Rock Lake to the north. But the powerhouse of county tourism is Eureka Springs. When Eureka faded as a spa town, population and business declined. In the late 1940s Dwight Nichols and a partner bought the Crescent Hotel on the cheap, only to realize that vacationers were few and far between. Nichols offered a six-day package for $40 through a Chicago travel agency. About 150,000 tourists visited in 1958.

The first Ozark Folk Festival was held in Eureka in 1948 to preserve and continue the area’s native arts of music, dancing, and craftsmanship. Many musical legends have performed at the festival including Doc Watson, Almeda Riddle, Fred High, and Jimmy Driftwood. The festival features many beloved traditions such as the Barefoot Ball, a Queen’s Contest, a parade, and a square-dancing presentation by the HedgeHoppers, third-grade students from Eureka Springs Elementary School. Newer festivals celebrate bluegrass, jazz, blues, art, film, and Mardi Gras.

Performers prepare for the Great Passion Play, Eureka Springs, 1968.

Performers prepare for the Great Passion Play, Eureka Springs, 1968. Dwight Nichols, photographer. Frances Deane Alexander Collection (S-2012-137-173)

Tourism increased during the 1960s with the coming of Beaver Lake and other tourist attractions like Dinosaur World, Quigley’s Castle, and Gerald L. K. Smith’s Christ of the Ozarks statue and the Great Passion Play. Residents had mixed feelings about Smith, a minister who supported anti-Semitic and fascist causes throughout his life. But the play, based on the last days of Jesus Christ, was popular. Economic downturns and changing visitor interest nearly closed the complex in 2012, but operators trimmed costs to stay open.

In the 1970s a number of artists moved to town, opening downtown stores to sell their work. Back then, Eureka advertised itself as the “Little Switzerland of the Ozarks.” Today it bills itself as the “Wedding Capital of the South.” In fact, Eureka made headlines in 2014 when it issued the first same-sex marriage license in Arkansas. Recently there has been an effort to promote the town as gay- and motorcycle-friendly, with some opposition. With 1.5 million visitors annually, Eureka is appreciated for the quality of its visual art and musical offerings. It has kept up with the times, offering such activities as ghost hunts, zip-line adventures, and winery tours.

“Now some folks just don’t care for oldtime fiddle music. . . . I reckon the more sophisticated run of people wouldn’t find it funny when Toby [Baker’s] gourd ‘gittar’ bursts into flame and smoke smack in the middle of a ditty [at the Folk Festival]. But these men and others are preserving some of the things that made the mountain country what it was before paved highways, television and electric washing machines brought upheaval to the hills.”
Ernie Deane
Arkansas Gazette, October 21, 1958

“We want the town full, not congested. Our economy depends on tourism. But we’re no shopping mall. We’re a community. Eighty-five per cent of us, non-natives, came here because we fell in love with it. I didn’t want the town to go totally commercial. We need stewardship, not to devalue our history or ruin the legacy.”
Eureka Springs Mayor Richard Schoeninger
Arkansas Gazette, January 31, 1989

Religion
Baptism at the White River, possibly the Mundell community, Carroll County, Arkansas, circa 1915.

Baptism at the White River, possibly the Mundell Community, about 1915. Eureka Springs Historical Museum Collection (S-99-66-379)

Most early Carroll County settlers were Baptist or Methodist. A Union Baptist church was organized at Joel Plumlee’s Green Forest home in 1838. Services were held once a month, from Saturday morning to Sunday night. There was preaching, Holy Communion, foot washing (a ritual of humility), and river baptisms. Eureka Springs’ fast-growing and diverse population brought new denominations.

Founded in 1882, St. Elizabeth Catholic Church moved into an impressive limestone building in 1909, complete with Italian mosaic floors and marble altars. Christian Science was introduced in the late 1880s by Lou Aldrich. Finding no relief from Eureka’s waters, she used prayer to treat her illness. She went on to become a healer herself, only to face legal action for “practicing healing without a medical license.” The case was dismissed after her attorney asked those healed by the new religion to stand (most stood) and then asked the same for those healed by doctors (nobody stood).

Today there is a wide variety of denominations in the county—Lutheran, Presbyterian, Pentecostal, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, Unitarian—even Native American. In Green Forest there are two Spanish-language Southern Baptist churches for the local Latino population. The Rock Springs Baptist Church near Berryville may be the oldest still-active church in the county. It was founded in the early 1850s by Dr. Alvah Jackson, discoverer of Eureka’s famous Basin Spring. But as congregations dwindle, country churches face uncertain futures. Recently the Historic Preservation Alliance of Arkansas put the 1895 Possum Trot Church near Osage on its “Six to Save” list.

“We didn’t have a college education, but we did have a lot of kneeology. You get down on your knees and pray to God for knowledge and understanding.”
Anita Hudson, speaking about Possum Trot Church
Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, June 8, 2009

Sounds of Carroll County
Melvin Anglin and Coy Logan

Carroll County storytellers Melvin Anglin (left) and Coy Logan, whose tales were included on the 1981 album, Not Far From Here.

Between 1970 and 1980 George West and William K. McNeil recorded folk narratives and folksongs of the Ozarks, resulting in the 1981 album, Not Far From Here. The project was sponsored by the Carroll County Historical Society and funded in part with grants from the Arkansas Arts Council, the Arkansas Endowment for the Humanities, and the National Endowment for the Arts, Folk Art Division.

Two of the project’s participants—Melvin Anglin (1906–1992) and Coy Logan (1906–1984)—were from Berryville. Both men learned their tall tales and stories of the Civil War from their grandparents. Thanks to George West, William K. McNeil, and the UALR Center for Arkansas History and Culture, we offer the recorded stories of Anglin and Logan here for your listening pleasure.

Carroll County Communities Photo Gallery

Credits

“28 Known Dead in Berryville Storm.” Northwest Arkansas Times, October 30, 1942.

“35th Annual Ozark Folk Festival.” Unknown Eureka Springs newspaper, October 1982. Shiloh Museum research files.

About the Festival.” Original Ozark Folk Festival, accessed October 2016.

“An Economic Analysis of Carroll County in Northwest Arkansas.” Center for Business and Economic Research, Sam M. Walton College of Business, University of Arkansas, August 30, 2002, accessed September 2016.

Andrews, James. “What about those new Ozark communes?” Memphis Commercial Appeal, circa 1974.

“Berryville Suffers Tornado.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. 38, No. 4 (Autumn 1993).

Bowden, Bill. “Abolish old law entirely, JP says.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, February 24, 2011.

Bowden, Bill. “Bowhunting inside town culls 12 deer.” Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, March 3, 2013.

Bowden, Bill. “Christ of Ozarks dark after 45 years.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, December 10, 2012.

Bowden Bill. “Eureka Springs Eternal: New Orleans Meets Switzerland In The Ozarks.” Spectrum, February 14, 1989.

Bowden, Bill. “Flags proposal raises a flap.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, November 24, 2013.

Bowden, Bill. “Passion Play cuts schedule, makes money.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, August 23, 2013.

Bowden, Bill. “River, politics, culture divide Carroll County.”  Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, September 19, 2010.

Bowden, Bill. “Siblings trying to save old church.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, June 8, 2009.

Braswell, O. Klute. “Evolution of the Berryville Court Square Park.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. XI, No. 4 (December 1966).

Breece, Marilyn. “1927, 1937 killer tornadoes struck Green Forest.” Boone County Historical & Railroad Society, Inc., August 4, 2006, accessed September 2016.

“Canning, Refrigerator Cars, and Fresh Produce.” Oak Leaves, Spring 1990.

Carroll County, Arkansas.” Community and Conflict: The Impact of the Civil War in the Ozarks, accessed September 2016.

“Carroll County, Arkansas: Its Land and Its People” (reprint of a 1914 publication of Oak Leaves), newspaper clipping, Shiloh Museum  research files, August 1979.

Carroll County Churches.” ShareFaith, accessed October 2016.

Carroll County Collaborative.” Eureka Springs: Mayor’s Task Force on Economic Development, Greater Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce, accessed October 2016.

Carroll County Historical and Genealogical Society. The History and Families of Carroll County, Arkansas. Paducah, Kentucky: Turner Publishing Co., 2003.

Carroll County Newspapers, Inc. A Pictorial History of Carroll County, Arkansas. Marceline, Missouri: Heritage House Publishing Company, circa 1990.

“Carroll County’s Leading Cannery at Green Forest.” Oak Leaves, Spring 1990.

“Carroll Electric Cooperative a Mighty Force in Development of Arkansas Ozarks,” Ozark Mountaineer, September 1956.

Chittenden, Mary Louise, editor. Carroll County, Arkansas: History and Reminiscences. Berryville, Arkansas: Carroll County Historical Society, 2005.

Chittenden, Mary Louise, editor. “History of Carroll County Arkansas.” Reprinted from Goodspeed’s Biographical and Historical Memoirs of Northwestern Arkansas, 1889, and A Reminiscent History of the Ozark Region, 1892. Carroll County Historical Society: Berryville, Arkansas, 2005.

Church Directory.Carroll County News, accessed October 2016.

Clarke’s Academy for Males and Females broadsheet. Berryville, August 15, 1879. Shiloh Museum research files.

Dean, Jerry. “Eureka Springs: The portrait of a town hibernating for winter.” Arkansas Gazette, January 31, 1989.

Deane, Ernie. “An Important ‘Rental’ Item: The Honeybee!” Arkansas Gazette, May 26, 1968.

Deane, Ernie. “Toby, Absie, and Fred Help Spice Up Folk Festival.” Arkansas Gazette, October 21, 1958.

Dempsy, David Frank. “Holiday Island enjoys rich history and bright future.”  Eureka Springs Times-Echo, March 1996.

Dodson, Lucile Russell. “The Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad Comes to Berryville, Arkansas.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. V, No. 1 (March 1960).

Dougan, Michael B. “Norman Baker (1882-1958).” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Downey, Sheilah. “Civil War cave in heart of city to get a facelift.” Carroll County News, June 17, 1993.

“Dr. A. E. Quinn.” unattributed and undated article. Shiloh Museum research files.

Dragonwagon, Crescent. “An Ozarks Original: Eureka Springs, Arkansas, is a town at odds with the ordinary.”  Discovery, Summer 1987.

Duggan, Tom. Unpublished manuscript about Northwest Arkansas railroad history, 2012–2014. Shiloh Museum research files.

Ellis, Mike. “The best little history of the best county in Arkansas.” Carroll County News Newcomer’s Guide, Summer 1998.

Ellis, Mike. “Union soldiers recognized a good thing.” Carroll County News, September 1, 1999.

ES&NA Railway,”  accessed October 2016.

Eureka Springs Carnegie Public Library Association. Eureka Springs Pictorial History. Eureka Springs Times-Echo, 1975.

Eureka Stone Company, accessed September 2016.

Finck, James. “Mountain Meadows Massacre.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Fletcher, Jim. “Civil War surrounded area with historical events.” Carroll County News, October 1992.

Fletcher, Jim. “The whole town moved: Carrollton still on the map, despite Alpena,” Green Forest Tribune, August 11, 1993.

Froelich, Jacqueline. “Eureka Springs in Black and White: The Lost History of an African-American Neighborhood.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LVI, No. 2 (Summer 1997).

“Gathering ‘Possums in the Ozarks.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. LIII, No. 4 (December 2008).

Gibson, Larry. “The way we were.” Unpublished manuscript, Fall 1993. Shiloh Museum research files.

Griffith, April. “Ozark Mountain Folk Fair.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed Ocotber 2016.

Griffith, April. “Ozark Mountain Folk Fair: History in Our Backyard.” The Back-Stay (Shiloh Museum blog ), June 7, 2013, accessed October 2016.

Handley, Lawrence R. “Settlement Across Northern Arkansas as Influenced by the Missouri & North Arkansas Railroad.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XXXIII, No. 4 (Winter 1974).

Harper, Edward. “Eccentricity At an Old Spa In the Ozarks.” New York Times, May 28, 1989.

“Healing Waters.” Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, accessed September 2016.

History.” St. Elizabeth of Hungary Catholic Church, accessed October 2016.

Housewright, Ed. “‘Little Switzerland’ focus of clash between old, new.” Arkansas Gazette, July 20, 1986.

Jackson, Jennifer. “Back to the Land, Again: Eureka-area commune members return for reunion.”  Lovely County Citizen, May 29, 2014.

Jamison, Sylvia. “Carroll County schools: History, events retold.” Eureka Springs Times-Echo, August 9, 1985.

Jamison, Silvia. “Two courthouses cause history of controversy.” Eureka Springs Times-Echo, May 9, 1985.

Jeansonne, Glen, and Michael Gauger. “Gerald Lyman Kenneth Smith (1898-1976).“Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed September 2016.

Jennings, John. “Hog Scald.” The History of Hogscald, accessed September 2016.

Jines, Billie. “White River residents accepted unusual Epsom salts deposit.” Northwest Arkansas Morning News, February 22, 1987.

Johnson, Boyd W. “Old Carrollton.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. 1, No. 3 (March 1957).

Johnson, Evelyn. “Early Sawmills of Carroll County.” Carroll County Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. XXIV, No. 1 (Spring 1979).

Jones, D. Elmer. “When Bales of Cotton Rolled Through Town.” Carroll County Historical Society, Vol. III, No. 3 (September 1958).

KInder, Kevin. “Tourist town puts old strengths, new interests out front.”  Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, February 10, 2008.

Kuykendall, Kristal. “Same-sex marriage licensing starts, stops.” Lovely County Citizen, May 15, 2014.

Lair, Jim, and O. Klute Braswell. An Outlander’s History of Carroll County, Arkansas. Marceline, Missouri: Walsworth Publishing Co, Inc., 1983.

Lair, Jim. “The Hanbys: ‘Lumber Kings of Carroll County.'” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. XXXI, No. 2 (Summer 1985).

Lancaster, Guy. “Arkansas Peace Society.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas, accessed September 2016.

Loftis, Scott. “Mercy-BV administrator points to positives.Carroll County News, July 12, 2016, accessed October 2016.

“Loftis, Scott. Tyson Expansion: Poultry giant proposes $136M plant in Green Forest.”  Carroll County News, April 15, 2016, accessed September 2016.

Long, E. Alan. “Saunders Museum Turns 50.” Carroll County News, June 13, 2005, accessed October 2016.

Long, E. Alan. “Which came first, Presbyterians or Baptists?” Carroll County News, May 16, 2003.

Lucariello, Kathryn. “Beaver woman recalls start of Holiday Island.” Carroll County News, November 27, 2012.

Luster, Mike. “Looking for the Center of the Universe: Edd Jeffords and Ozark In-migration,” unpublished and undated manuscript, Shiloh Museum research files.

Maierhofer, Karen. “Many responsible for hospital.” Carroll County News(?) (Carroll General Hospital Edition), October 1984.

May, Bethany. “Eureka Springs (Carroll County).” Encyclopedia of Arkansas, accessed October 2016.

McNeal, David. “Tennis Affair in Jeopardy After 70 Yrs.” Carroll County News, November 23, 1989.

Miller, C. J. “Carroll County.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed September 2016.

Mills, Nellie A. Other Days at Eureka Springs, 1950.

More, Kechia Bentley. “What’s in a Name? The History Behind Harmon Park.” River Valley Online, September 1, 2006, accessed Occtober 2016.

Mosenthin, H. Glenn. “Missouri and North Arkansas Railroad (M&NA).” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History,. accessed October 2016.

Motherwell, David. “Berryville Kraft Cheese Plant.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. LLI, No. 4 (December 2007).

Motherwell, David. “The Trail of Tears went through Carroll County.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. LIII, No. 1 (March 2008).

Newcomb, Kelby. “Ready, aim, fire Saunders Memorial Shoot sets sights on this weekend.” Carroll County News, September 21, 2016.

Ozark Mountain Folkfair program, 1973. Posted by Bob Treat on Flickr, accessed October 2016.

Parham, Jon. “ES looking to the future.” Carroll County News, March 1995.

Phillips, Jared M. “Hipbillies and Hillbillies: Back-to-the-Landers in the Arkansas Ozarks during the 1970s.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LXXV, No. 2 (Summer 2016).

Polston, Mike. “Carrollton.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed September 2016.

Pyron, Shirley H. “A Slave Called Mariah.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. LV, No. 2 (June 2010).

Pyron, Shirley, H. “Vera Gentry’s Hospital.” Carroll County Historical Society, Vol. LVI, No. 1 (March 2011).

Quick Facts, Carroll County, Arkansas.” United States Census Bureau, accessed September 2016.

Rea, Ralph R. Boone County and Its People. Van Buren, Arkansas: Press-Argus, 1955.

Renowned Crescent Comet Mabel Williams.” 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa blog, September 29, 2012, accessed October 2016.

“Resort Community Marks First Anniversary.” Holiday Island Sun, August 1971.

“Rock Springs Missionary Baptist Church.” 1956. Shiloh Museum research files.

Sabo, George, III. “Osage.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Shiras, Ginger. “Longhairs, Sacred Projects Reviving Eureka Springs.” Arkansas Gazette, June 25, 1972.

Standlee, Nora L. Davis. “Stories of the Civil War and Early Carroll County.” Carroll County Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. III, No. 3 (June 1957).

“The Stephen Foster of the Ozarks.” Carroll County Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. XXIV, No. 1 (Spring 1979).

Stewart-Abernathy, Leslie. “Cherokee.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Terry, Dickson. “New Life for the Stair-Step Town.”  St. Louis Post-Dispatch, August 31, 1958.

Teske, Steven. “Green Forest (Carroll County).” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Tornado Disaster In Arkansas.” Pathe newsreel, 1942. Getty Images, accessed September 2016.

“Tornado Hits Arkansas Town Killing 28 Persons.” Tuscaloosa [Alabama] News, October 30, 1942.

Tucker, Vernon. “Limestone part of Eureka Springs’ past and present.” Flashlight, September 1983.

Tyler, Virginia. “Around Town.” , Eureka Springs Times-Echo,  November 11, 1982.

Tyson Foods Proposes to Build Additional Plant in Arkansas.” Tyson Foods, April 14, 2016, accessed December 2016.

Vego, Jenny. “Crescent College and Conservatory.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed October 2016.

Welcome to Eureka Springs!” Greater Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce, accessed September 2016.

Westphal, June, and Catharine Osterage. A Fame Not Easily Forgotten: An Autobiography of Eureka Springs. Carthage, Missouri: Litho Printers and Bindery, 2010.

Westphal June, and Kate Cooper. Eureka Springs: City of Healing Waters. Charleston, South Carolina: The History Press, 2012.

Westphal, June, and Vineta Wingate. “Play Ball! A Little History of Baseball in Carroll County.” Carroll County Historical Quarterly, Vol. LVI, No. 3 (September 2011).

Williams, Cindy. “Berryville.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas History, accessed September 2016.

Working Together for Carroll County.” Eureka Springs Mayor’s Task Force on Economic Development, Greater Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce, accessed October 2016.

Scenes of Madison County

Scenes of Madison County

Online Exhibit
19th-Century Settlement
Modified section from 1901

Modified section from 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” George F. Cram, Chicago

For a time the area now called Madison County was once the hunting grounds for the Osage Indians. But they were forced out as white settlement in the East pushed other Native American groups west. In 1838 about 16,000 Native Americans were forcibly removed from their ancestral homes, moving through Arkansas to Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) along the “Trail of Tears.” Some 1,200 Cherokee and enslaved people followed the Benge Route through Missouri, down to Huntsville and beyond.

Madison County was formed in 1836, a few months after Arkansas statehood. Carved out of Washington and Carroll counties, it is said to be named for President James Madison by a group of settlers from Madison County, Alabama, home to the county seat of Huntsville. The county’s boundaries changed frequently early on, gaining land from Newton County and, at one point, stretching north to the Missouri border. Early settlers built log homes, farmed the land, established communities, and organized churches, schools, businesses, and governmental agencies. Some settlers brought enslaved people to work for them, but these African Americans were only a fraction of the county’s population. Still, families and neighbors split their loyalties during the Civil War over the issues of slavery and states’ rights.

Old settlers’ cabin near Kingston, early-mid 1920s.

Old settlers’ cabin near Kingston, early-mid 1920s. Rev. Elmer J. Bouher, photographer. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-100)

Residents slowly rebuilt after the war. While most were farmers, a new “crop” began to be harvested. Timber from old-growth forests became a major industry starting in the 1880s, when railroads began to be built throughout Northwest Arkansas, including what would become the St. Paul Branch of the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad. As tracks were laid in the southern half of the county, old settlements such as St. Paul and Pettigrew turned into new boomtowns.

” . . . [W]e grew a little cotton for home consumption. There were not cotton gins in this section of the state 60 years ago and so we had to pick the seed out by hand, while mother would card, spin and weave. . . . In roasting-ear time, she grated corn for bread. She parched green coffee and us boys supplied the table meat by means of traps set in the woods. . . . We went bare-foot the year round and when our fire went out, it was my job to go across two 40-acre tracts to Uncle George Glenn’s and borrow fire, there being no matches.”
W. H. Wahlquist
Madison County Record, December 24, 1936

19th-Century Settlement
Modified section from 1901

Modified section from 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” George F. Cram, Chicago

For a time the area now called Madison County was once the hunting grounds for the Osage Indians. But they were forced out as white settlement in the East pushed other Native American groups west. In 1838 about 16,000 Native Americans were forcibly removed from their ancestral homes, moving through Arkansas to Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) along the “Trail of Tears.” Some 1,200 Cherokee and enslaved people followed the Benge Route through Missouri, down to Huntsville and beyond.

Madison County was formed in 1836, a few months after Arkansas statehood. Carved out of Washington and Carroll counties, it is said to be named for President James Madison by a group of settlers from Madison County, Alabama, home to the county seat of Huntsville. The county’s boundaries changed frequently early on, gaining land from Newton County and, at one point, stretching north to the Missouri border. Early settlers built log homes, farmed the land, established communities, and organized churches, schools, businesses, and governmental agencies. Some settlers brought enslaved people to work for them, but these African Americans were only a fraction of the county’s population. Still, families and neighbors split their loyalties during the Civil War over the issues of slavery and states’ rights.

Old settlers’ cabin near Kingston, early-mid 1920s.

Old settlers’ cabin near Kingston, early-mid 1920s. Rev. Elmer J. Bouher, photographer. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-100)

Residents slowly rebuilt after the war. While most were farmers, a new “crop” began to be harvested. Timber from old-growth forests became a major industry starting in the 1880s, when railroads began to be built throughout Northwest Arkansas, including what would become the St. Paul Branch of the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad. As tracks were laid in the southern half of the county, old settlements such as St. Paul and Pettigrew turned into new boomtowns.

” . . . [W]e grew a little cotton for home consumption. There were not cotton gins in this section of the state 60 years ago and so we had to pick the seed out by hand, while mother would card, spin and weave. . . . In roasting-ear time, she grated corn for bread. She parched green coffee and us boys supplied the table meat by means of traps set in the woods. . . . We went bare-foot the year round and when our fire went out, it was my job to go across two 40-acre tracts to Uncle George Glenn’s and borrow fire, there being no matches.”
W. H. Wahlquist
Madison County Record, December 24, 1936

20th-Century Growth
Governor Bill Clinton speaking at the dedication of the Huntsville-Madison County Airport, September 27, 1986.

Governor Bill Clinton speaking at the dedication of the Huntsville-Madison County Airport, September 27, 1986. Springdale News Collection (SN 9-27-1986)

Timber and commercial canneries were the biggest industries in the county going into the 20th century. By the Great Depression in the 1930s the timber was largely gone, along with many industry-related jobs and the railroad. County residents received aid in the form of jobs, training, and facilities through government-funded New Deal “make-work” programs and projects. In downtown Huntsville, two large barracks and a woodworking shop were built in the city park in 1939 by the National Youth Administration. Working in conjunction with the local school district and the State Vocational School, young men aged 18 to 25 were charged with building a $50,000 grade school as part of a skill-training program.

Electric lights came to downtown Huntsville in 1914, when a dynamo (generator) was installed at the Huntsville Roller Mill. The town was largely electrified by the late 1920s. It took the help of the federal Rural Electrification Administration (REA) to bring power to the rest of the county. To receive $200,000 in funding for the initial construction of 210 miles of power lines, in 1938 residents of Washington County and western Madison County formed the consumer-owned Ozarks Rural Electric Cooperative Corporation (now Ozarks Electric). Other towns like Kingston, Clifty, and Marble were served by the Carroll Electric Cooperation. As power lines came closer, eager folks had their homes wired for electricity. When the new gymnasium opened at the St. Paul High School, a newspaper ad for a basketball tournament exclaimed, “REA Lights!”

Many county residents left for work in California and other states during the Depression and World War II, with an additional 2,000 folks leaving in the decade following the war. Beginning in the 1940s roads and highways were built or improved, the work helped, in part, through the efforts of Madison-county native and 36th governor, Orval E. Faubus. Roads helped move merchandise and agricultural products to market and encouraged tourism. Livestock production became a major source of income after the war—first dairy cattle and then beef, followed by poultry as companies like Tyson Foods which relied on local growers to produce chickens and turkeys.

In the 1980s Huntsville was touted as a town on “the edge of an explosion.” A golf course and twenty-acre baseball park were built, a new airport opened, and the local Butterball turkey plant expanded its workforce. Measures were taken to fend off further school consolidation like the construction of a new high school.

“From all this it would seem that Rural Electrification for Madison County is ‘just around the corner.’ Now, let everyone get his shoulder to the wheel and ROLL, because it is going to take all hands and the cook to finish the job.”
Bert Jackson
Madison County Record, May 25, 1938

21st-Century Future
Kings River below Ray Branch, near Marble, 1950s.

Kings River below Ray Branch, near Marble, 1950s. A. T. Shuller Collection (S-92-157-45)

Today the county remains largely rural and agricultural in nature. In fact, it wasn’t until 2016 that the county’s first stoplight was installed in Huntsville. While neighboring counties generally have a declining birthrate, the county’s birthrate is the highest in the state, going from 10.7 births per 1,000 residents in 2011 to 14.8 births in 2018. Demographics are changing slowly. According to the 2010 census, ninety-three percent of the population was white, with the largest minority population of Latino origin at nearly five percent. Nearly nineteen percent of residents live below the poverty line. Recently there’s been a small influx of folks from Benton County, some of whom are leaving a higher cost of living for cheaper land.

While the timber industry is strong, the county’s largest employers are the Butterball turkey processing plant, the Huntsville School District, and Ducommun LaBarge Technologies, which manufactures circuit boards and electronic assemblies. But businesses are struggling on the Huntsville square. Factors include the relocation of Walmart away from downtown, the US 412 bypass around town, and online shopping. Many residents commute beyond the county’s borders to work, in some ways making the county one large “bedroom community.”

Tourism is on the rise. Miles of winding, scenic roads beckon motorcyclists, especially during the fall. The county’s four rivers—the White, Kings, Mulberry, and War Eagle—have their headwaters near the town of Boston. Along with those, nature-based resources such as Withrow Springs State Park, Ozark National Forest, Kings River Falls, Sweden Creek Falls, and the Ozark Natural Science Center offer places for hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, swimming, canoeing, and education.

“I hope it [business in downtown Huntsville] turns around. We have some good businesses down here—some unique things. I have regular customers that come all the way from Rogers. And they come about once a month, just for all of the little, quirky little shops and because our prices are so much better than the Springdale/Fayetteville areas.”
Pamela Montoya
Madison County Record, November 29, 2018

Settlers
George Washington Vaughan with his grandsons, Madison County, Arkansas,about 1881.

George Washington Vaughan with his grandsons, about 1881. Vaughan came with his family from Tennessee by 1830. Ada Lee Smith Shook Collection (S-2008-86-48)

Settlers began arriving in the late 1820s, generally traveling overland from Missouri or up the Arkansas River to Fort Smith (Sebastian County). Henry King was one of the first. He came from Alabama to scout out possible farm land, only to be killed when his wagon went over a cliff. In tribute, the Kings River was named after him. George Tucker explored the southwest part of the future county in 1827 with the Vaughan brothers, who settled Vaughan Valley near Hindsville in 1831. John Holmesley came with his family in 1828, after rumors spread about him being involved in the theft of a hog. “After hearing the story of his misdemeanor several times, he began to believe it and thought best to find a place to live elsewhere.

Early homes were usually built of hand-hewn logs with puncheon floors (half-round logs, with the flat side up). John Williams, who settled along the White River, was described as “a great trader who dealt largely in horses, slaves, etc.” By 1840 there were eighty-three enslaved workers in the county and 296 by 1860. Most did farm work, but a few were household servants. After the Civil War a little over half of the African-American population decided to stay in the county, many working for their former “owners.” By 1900 only forty-four blacks remained, many living in Whorton Creek Township, southwest of Huntsville.

Bruce and Joan Johnson with baby Jesse, Burrdog (left), and Sparky at their home under construction near St. Paul, Arkansas, July 24, 1974.

Bruce and Joan Johnson with baby Jesse, Burrdog (left), and Sparky at their home under construction near St. Paul, July 24, 1974. Courtesy Bruce and Joan Johnson

A new type of settler came in the 1970s. They were young adults, seeking simpler, more meaningful lives by establishing small homesteads and communes. For some of these back-to-the-landers, living off the land was hard. Rural isolation, primitive living conditions, non-stop hard work, a lack of electricity and running water, and inter-group squabbles caused some groups like Yellowhammer, a women’s communal-living farm located near Patrick, to disband after only a few years. Others met the challenges and stayed on their land. Bob and Eileen Billig settled near Pettigrew in 1972 and did odd jobs like sign painting before building a business selling pressed-flower collages. They were part of the Headwaters School, formed in the early 1970s “to provide a balanced educational environment for rural students who were homeschooling.”

Gary Davidson and Cindy Cadwallader Davidson Arsaga with their homegrown vegetables at Glen Haught’s home, Witter, Arkansas, 1974.

Gary Davidson and Cindy Cadwallader Davidson Arsaga with their homegrown vegetables at Glen Haught’s home, Witter, 1974. Nancy Marshall Collection (S-2013-58-17)

“It was in the year 1851 when we arrived in Madison County [from Tennessee] and all this world’s goods that my father and mother possessed when we got there was provision [food] enough to last us three days, one coon dog and 5 cts [cents] in silver. The town of Huntsville . . . contained a few business houses and several residences.”
E. B. “Ben” Hager
From a July 5, 1906, interview by Silas Claiborne Turnbo

 

 

Government
Madison County Courthouse, Huntsville, Arkansas, about 1937.

Madison County Courthouse, Huntsville, about 1937. This was the town’s fifth courthouse, built in 1905. Mr. and Mrs. Sherman Hinds Collection (S-87-63-14)

Before Huntsville became the county seat in 1839, county government operated out of a log barn on Evan S. Polk’s farm, close to the present Huntsville square. Six courthouses were built through the years, three of which burned down; one was abandoned due to poor construction. During the early 1900s there was continual talk of moving the county seat to the more populous St. Paul, the beneficiary of the area’s timber boom economy and the county’s only railroad. Some even suggested dividing the county into two. But as the timber industry began to slow in the 1920s, such talk died out. The current Art Deco-style courthouse of brick, concrete, and stone was built in 1939 by the federal Public Works Administration at a cost of roughly $150,000.

Madison County Courthouse, Huntsville, Arkansas, 1891.

Madison County Courthouse, Huntsville, 1891. This was the fourth courthouse to be built, the only one made of brick. It was lost in 1902 when the part of the downtown square was destroyed by fire. Dorothy Ware Wilson Collection (S-83-147)

Madison County was home to two governors. Elected to represent Madison County during the state’s Secession Convention, Isaac Murphy famously voted against Arkansas seceding from the Union before the Civil War. He was appointed to serve as provisional governor in 1864, in the section of the state held by Federal forces, and later was elected governor statewide for one term. Orval E. Faubus served six terms, beginning in 1955, and is most remembered for blocking the desegregation of Little Rock’s Central High School. Both men’s homes were located on “Governor’s Hill,” just east of Huntsville.

The county went “dry” in 1946, meaning that the sale of alcohol was prohibited. In 2012 the group “Keeping the Money in Madison County” gathered enough votes to put the issue on the ballot. An opposing group lobbied against alcohol sales, worried that they would lead to safety issues. To illustrate their point, a wrecked car with a sign, “Your future with alcohol,” was towed around the county. The ballot passed and three new liquor stores opened in 2013.

Madison County Jail employees, May 2, 1981. Morris White, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 5-2-1981)

Today Madison County and local city governments face economic uncertainty. While a highway bypass around Huntsville was hoped to spur business north of town, the results have been mixed. At the county jail in Huntsville, since prisoners can’t be held more than twenty-four hours, the county must pay to house them in neighboring counties. On three occasions voters rejected funding the renovation or construction of a new jail.

“While summer term was in session [in 1836 or 1837] a youth of 17 or 18 years of age was on trial for a serious offense. The trial Judge was in sympathy with the boy. While the court was in session the boy slipped through a crack in the back of the room. The Judge called to the boy saying ‘Run, damn you, run.'”
Oscar S. Johnson
Madison County Record, June 10, 1965

Agriculture
Turkey drive near Kingston, early-mid 1920s.

Turkey drive near Kingston, early-mid 1920s. Rev. Elmer J. Bouher, photographer. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-95)

In the 19th century most families grew what they needed to survive—things like corn, hogs, and vegetables. Some farmers grew cash crops such as tobacco and apples, but without easy transportation to get their product to market, they couldn’t make a business of it. The problem was solved in the mid-1880s when a railroad was built through the southern half of the county. By the 1900s turkeys were shipped by the thousands for the Thanksgiving market. In 1929 more than 1,200 birds were gathered “from Kingston to Marble, Alabam, and Huntsville.”

Garrett Williams (left) in his apple orchard with son-in-law Robert Bedford Wilson, Buckeye community (near Whitener), Madison County, Arkansas,1900s-1910s.

Garrett Williams (left) in his apple orchard with son-in-law Robert Bedford Wilson, Buckeye community (near Whitener), 1900s–1910s. Dorothy Ware Wilson Collection (S-82-209-10)

Farmers like Garrett Williams of the Buckeye community planted large-scale apple orchards. In 1903 he had one-hundred acres under cultivation and was putting in eighty more. A nurseryman as well, he grew and sold trees for other growers. He even shipped some of his apples to be exhibited at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis. The region’s apple industry was so large that in 1907 a newspaper account enthusiastically valued the combined apple crop of Madison, Washington, and Benton counties at $2.5 million. In response, the Four Rivers Mutual Orchard Company near Red Star was organized around 1910. Investors bought thousands of acres of land, hiring locals to clear it and plant orchards. But insect damage and an unscrupulous land buyer forced the company to sell its assets a few years later.

After World War II many residents left, seeking better jobs. An “On the Farm Training” program for veterans began in Huntsville in 1946. It paid the men to learn such skills as how to build fences, deliver calves, clear land, weld metal, and treat cows suffering from milk fever. To further combat population loss and a decreasing economy, county leaders created a development plan. It included such endeavors as developing strawberry fields, establishing a grower’s association, and growing the dairy industry, whose producers sold milk to the Pet Milk plant in Huntsville.

Turkey processing at Swift Dairy and Poultry Company, Huntsville, Arkansas, 1974.

Turkey processing at Swift Dairy and Poultry Company, Huntsville, 1974. Beatrice Foods Collection (S-86-122-39)

In 1974 Swift Dairy and Poultry Company opened a processing and freezing plant in Huntsville for its Butterball-brand turkeys. Back then, the 200-employee plant processed thirty birds a minute, or 150,000 pounds daily. Now known as Butterball LLC, the plant employs about 650 people and contributes much to the local economy. But the rise of poultry production has its cost. Tired of odor and fearful of water contamination, in 1989 residents near Clifty fought a winning battle against a sludge lagoon filled with poultry waste. In 2018 Butterball agreed to change how it dealt with wastewater, to reduce the unpleasant smell lingering over town.

Today, beef cattle and poultry are the county’s main agricultural industries, with farmers producing eggs and broilers for businesses like Tyson Foods. However some poultry growers have switched to raising beef cattle and harvesting hay, because, they say, the companies think their operations are too far from feed plants and processing facilities.

“As the timber disappeared, the people turned mostly to farming and raising cattle, but since the rugged hills would not support as many farmers and stockmen as it did timber workers, many had to leave and seek a livelihood elsewhere.”
Governor Orval E. Faubus
Ozarks Mountaineer, June 1957

Religion
River baptism, Pettigrew, Arkansas, 1930s.

River baptism, Pettigrew, 1930s. With David Carlson (preacher, with hand in air), Elva Barker Martin, and Orville Martin. Wayne Martin Collection (S-86-83-1)

Established in 1833, the Kings River congregation of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church was the first known religious group in the county. Since they arrived late in the year and didn’t have time to build homes before winter set in, the congregants set up a campground in a sheltered valley with a large spring, staying in wagons and lean-to structures. The area came to be known as Upper Campground and was used for many church gatherings over the years. Other early churches include the Big Fork Free-Will Baptist Church near Aurora, the (Primitive Baptist) New Hope Church near Kingston, and the Fairview Christian Church near Wesley. Some early preachers were circuit riders, traveling hundreds of miles by horseback to minister to a widespread group of congregants. Baptisms were frequently held outdoors, in a creek or river.

Kingston Community Presbyterian Church, Kingston, Arkansas,mid-1920s.

Kingston Community Presbyterian Church, mid-1920s. With Rev. Elmer J. Bouher (far right, with hands in pockets). Fred and Anna Berry Collection (S-84-113-23)

In the 1910s the Reverend Elmer J. Bouher of Indiana undertook a massive project to “improve” the lives of residents in rural Kingston. His “King’s Plan” involved building a church, school, and community building, improving local roads and farming methods, and teaching the principles of health and hygiene at a community medical clinic. Funded in part by the Brick Church in New York and local contributions of money, materials, and labor, the Kingston Community Presbyterian Church was begun in 1922. The project had its detractors, as some folks resented outsiders telling them how to live. Many factors contributed to the gradual decline of the project, including Bouher’s departure and the financial problems of the Great Depression. Use of the church and school buildings ended in 1948. The buildings were torn down three years later.

As religious needs expand, so do religious offerings. Begun in the 1990s, the Madison County Ministerial Alliance is a collaboration of ten to fifteen churches and religious organizations which hosts special religious services and collects food donations for a food pantry and the Pregnancy Center. In 2015, $4,920 was donated to families in need. St. John the Evangelist (Catholic) Church in Huntsville offers a Spanish-language mass for the county’s growing Latino population. The Madison County Cowboy Church was founded in 2010 to “[Serve] God the Cowboy Way.” Featuring a come-as-you-are attitude, the church’s sermons, country gospel music, and family-oriented dances and events may take place around a campfire or at the rodeo grounds. The Land of Infinite Bliss Retreat Center was built near Crosses in 2011 by the Tibetan Cultural Institute of Arkansas. The center offers classes on meditation, non-violence training, and Tibetan Buddhism.

“The great event of my visit was the church service on Sunday morning. . . . I preached as well as I could to an audience which included a large proportion of babies in arms and of restless little rascals who insisted on taking a walk in the aisles once in awhile . . .”
Dr. W. R. Taylor, “Our Investment in Arkansas”
Brick Church, Rochester, New York, June 1922

Civil War
Confederate soldiers reunion, Huntsville, Arkansas, 1913.

Confederate soldiers reunion, Huntsville, 1913. Washington County Historical Society Collection (P-1423)

Prior to the Civil War, Madison County had relatively few enslaved workers as compared to several neighboring counties. The enslaved population barely grew from 1840, when three percent of residents were slaves, to 1860 at four percent. Like the rest of Northwest Arkansas, folks had divided loyalties. As war loomed on the horizon, schoolteacher, lawyer, and state senator Isaac Murphy of Huntsville was elected on a Unionist platform to serve at the Arkansas Secession Convention of 1861. He alone voted against leaving the Union. At first his fellow county residents approved of his action, but sentiments changed as the war came closer to home.

His life threatened, Murphy left for Missouri and joined the staff of Union General Samuel Curtis. Murphy made arrangements for his daughters to travel to Missouri as well, but two of them remained in Huntsville, where they were harassed continually. Perhaps their treatment led to the execution of nine men (one of whom survived) by Union soldiers in 1863. The soldier in command was arrested for his actions but the charges against him were later dropped.

While no major battles were fought in Madison County, there were a few small-scale skirmishes. Near war’s end, several hundred folks moved to four fortified “Union Colonies” set up at Huntsville, Richland, War Eagle, and Brush Creek. Meant to offer physical protection and a safe place to farm, the colonies were open to all who pledged allegiance to the United States. Lawless bushwhackers preyed on the county’s citizens even after the war. One legend has it that folks living in a valley near Hindsville were so tired of having their food carried off that they cleared the timber from the top of a hill and planted potatoes and other vegetables. According to the story, raiders never bothered “Tater Hill.”

“Shortly after [the battle at Prairie Grove] the Yankees came to Kings River and commenced their dreadful slaughter of men and horse stealing. Then there was raised in our settlement, independent companies of lawless bands who went about over the country, stealing and robbing every lady without distinction, and then after they got everything in our country, then turned in and burned our houses, turned out widows and orphans in the winter’s snow. They entirely robbed me out, never left me narry a single horse nor nothing that was worth anything.”
Jane Page
Kings River, November 14, 1866

Natural Resources
Howard Rufie Martin with his log truck, Pettigrew, Arkansas, about 1928.

Howard Rufie Martin with his log truck, Pettigrew, about 1928. Wayne Martin Collection (S-85-322-48)

The county is heavily forested, with nearly two-thirds of the land covered by trees, even into the 21st century. A large portion of the southern section of the county is part of the Ozark National Forest, created in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt as a way to place its valuable hardwood timberland under government protection. The county’s timber industry was made possible when the first railroad branch line was built in the 1880s.

At one time, more lumber was shipped out of Pettigrew than anywhere else in the country. Three generations of the Martin family—Rufie, Orville, and Wayne—worked in the timber industry, cutting whatever wood they could sell and processing it at their sawmill near Pettigrew. Some of their work included white oak for railroad ties and wagon tongues (large poles used to connect a team of horses to a wagon), cherry for Singer sewing machines, and gum for bed rails made by Fulbright Wood Products in Fayetteville (Washington County).

As much profit as the timber industry brought to people and businesses, it also brought hardship. Working the timber was dangerous work and some men were maimed or killed in sawmill accidents. The influx of workers with ready cash encouraged saloons and brothels to spring up in the timber boomtowns. St. Paul’s longtime Frisco railroad agent, Mrs. J.M. Williams, recalled drunken fistfights between hundreds of men erupting on Saturday nights. The wholesale clear-cutting of trees led to soil erosion, which affected farms.

Carl Wright (near top of ladder) at his gold mine, Combs, Arkansas,1918.

Carl Wright (near top of ladder) at his gold mine, Combs, 1918. Chloe Thomas Collection (S-97-1-215)

There have been several—largely unsuccessful—attempts to find other valuable resources in the county. Jasper H. Combs claimed that he had found a “long, lost Spanish [gold] mine” and the remains of a smelter on the Kings River, but nothing came of it. In 1918 Carl Wright sunk a sixty-foot mine shaft at Combs, looking for gold. Investors bought stock and the town’s population increased, but the venture failed a few months later. Wright tried again in 1933, paying miners $2 a day to haul, crush, and smelt rock in order to extract the metal. Only a few flecks of gold were found.

Oil and gas drilling tests occurred at Witter, Clifty, Huntsville, and nearby Georgetown from the 1920s to the 1950s. The most successful mining operation in the county was that of the War Eagle Lime Company near Huntsville. It excavated and crushed lime in the 1950s and 1960s for use as an agricultural soil amendment.

Girl Scouts at Camp Noark near Huntsville, Arkansas, June 1979.

Girl Scouts at Camp Noark near Huntsville, June 1979. Charles Bickford, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 6-1979 #8)

The land itself is a natural resource for learning opportunities. In 1964 the NOARK (North Arkansas) Girl Scout Council purchased over 1,000 acres of land just north of Huntsville. When Camp Noark opened three years later, scouts learned such skills as how to take initiative and be self-reliant. As a way to learn resourcefulness, early campers made do with “lashing instead of tables, wood fire instead of stove, lantern instead of electricity, [and] singing instead of TV.” The Girl Scouts-Diamonds Council closed the camp at the end of the 2016 season because of high costs and declining use. However Girl Scout troops, church groups, and others can now rent the facilities, with the fees going to help maintain the camp. At the 15,000-acre Ozark Natural Science Center near Forum, students experience “hands-on and minds-on outdoor science education” by experiencing the “beauty and unique biodiversity of the Ozarks’ natural environment.” Developed by Ken and RuAnn Ewing and a small group of folks in 1989, the center now serves yearly over 3,000 students from Arkansas and Oklahoma. Specialty programs include yoga retreats, a Father’s Day camping weekend, eco-art, and caving.

Ken Ewing (right) at the Ozark Natural Science Center near Forum, Madison County, Arkansas,December 11, 1992

Ken Ewing (right) at the Ozark Natural Science Center near Forum, December 11, 1992. Travis Doster, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 12-11-1992)

 

“Green Burgess and Luker [Luke] Carter were killed instantly about noon Tuesday near Wharton when the boiler of a sawmill, which they were operating, exploded. . . . Burgess was blown through the roof of the mill shed and his horribly mangled body fell only a few feet from where he had stood. . . . So terrific was the explosion that the boiler was blown about 25 feet from its base.”
Green Burgess’ obituary
Rogers Democrat, August 26, 1915

 

Business
St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad car at the Yount Stave Mill near the Frisco depot (far left), Pettigrew, Arkansas, 1900s.

St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad car at the Yount Stave Mill near the Frisco depot (far left), Pettigrew, 1900s. Mary Harrell Collection (S-99-17)

Water-run gristmills were among the first businesses in the county, grinding corn and wheat. Hawkins Mill on War Eagle Creek and the Withrow Mill at Withrow Springs were both established in the mid-1830s. The first steam-powered mill was built in 1881 by F. M. Sams in Huntsville for $6,400. It produced twenty barrels of flour daily. The Kingston Roller Mill was built by J. D. Basore Sr. and his sons in 1898. It took eight wagons to bring the heavy machinery from Springdale.

When Joel N. Bunch moved to Kingston in 1880, he opened a general store. But the poor roads and rugged terrain kept salesmen away. So he hauled his merchandise from Springfield, Missouri, sometimes taking three weeks to cover the over-200-mile-round trip. He also purchased materials gathered or produced by his neighbors. He sold mink, possum, and fox pelts to fur merchants, plants like goldenseal and ginseng to pharmaceutical companies, and honey and sorghum to his customers. Bunch began the Kingston Spoke Plant in 1907 and made wheel spokes for buggies and wagons for over twenty years. He also established and built the Bank of Kingston in 1911, complete with beautiful wood tellers’ cages and a vault advertised as “Fire, Mob, and Burglar Proof.” Today the building is home to Anstaff Bank.

For a long time the county’s industry and economy were tied to its forests. In 1887 the railroad shipped out 15,000 carloads of railroad ties and props for mine pits, valued at $2 million. One of the biggest players was the Phipps Lumber Company which, at its peak, received hundreds of wagons of lumber, barrel staves, and ties daily at its Pettigrew facility. At Drakes Creek, Noah Johnson manufactured about 40,000 wagon bows annually (woods supports used to hold up the canvas coverings of wagons). The timber industry still plays a role today, with at least seven major sawmills county-wide. The Richland Handle Company started in Delaney in the mid-1950s but moved to Wesley in 1964. It makes handles for such items as garden tools, shovels, and hammers. At St. Paul, Willhite Forest Products produces slats for shipping pallets, lumber for flooring, and railroad ties. The Royal Oak Charcoal plant near Huntsville uses waste slabs from sawmills to make charcoal for outdoor grills.

In 2016 the Huntsville Economic Development Commission created a plan to address local needs, including developing an industrial site, retaining and expanding businesses, and increasing tourism. Over in Hindsville, Arkansas Hemp Genetics had partnered with the University of Arkansas to study hemp flowers, a source of cannabidiol (CBD), a non-addictive substance that some believe has medical potential. But plans for a farm and production facility seem unlikely to come to pass.

“In 1919, [S. D.] Albright was the first man to order trucks to be used in the timber business [in Red Star]. Two GMC service trucks arrived in Pettigrew by train, but nobody knew how to drive them. However, after some practice, the men took the trucks to the woods with visions of returning loaded with wood. Gayle Edwards Eversole told me that instead, they returned with mules hooked to the front of the trucks because the trucks couldn’t pull the load.”
Wayne Martin
Pettigrew, Arkansas, Hardwood Capital of the World, 2010

Education
Schoolgirls from War Eagle township, Madison County, Arkansas,early 1890s.

Schoolgirls from War Eagle township, early 1890s. From left, Stella Mae Brodie, Norah S. Routh (front), Jodie True, and Myrtle Routh. Mark Strube Collection (S-93-66-4)

The county’s first school was said to have been built of logs on Sweden Creek in 1833, near present-day Kingston. Schools in Huntsville and old St. Paul soon followed. At the time there were no state-sponsored schools, only three-month-long, private subscription schools. The private Huntsville Masonic Institute, one of the first colleges in Arkansas, was built in 1855. The Pleasant View Female Seminary was chartered the same year, with five-month terms costing $8 each. The young ladies studied such subjects as history, grammar, spelling, and “mental arithmetic.” The former institution was run by future governor Isaac Murphy while the latter was run by at least two of his daughters. Both institutions closed in 1861 with the outbreak of the Civil War.

The first county school district was formed in Huntsville in 1868 and by 1897 there were 125 districts. In 1879 the county had 4,397 school-age children, but a little less than one-quarter were enrolled, with roughly half that amount (484) attending classes on any given day. There were a number of private and specialty schools during the late 1800s and early 1900s. The Huntsville Academy offered grades one through eight as well as training for teachers. Jesse Bird organized the Hindsville Academy and later Bird College, a private high school in Huntsville.

“Old Main” at Huntsville State Vocational School, 1930s. Lucille Phillips Collection (S-99-1-262)

In the 1920s the Kingston school came under the guidance of the Reverend Elmer J. Bouher, who was developing the large, progressive Kingston Community Presbyterian Church to “improve” the lives of local residents, in part through education. As school superintendent, Otto Ernest Rayburn worked hard to create a four-year accredited high school. The Huntsville State Vocational School opened in 1929 and trained students in life skills and trades such as “domestic arts” and agriculture. It was the first school in the county with indoor bathrooms, but there was one problem—the town didn’t have a sewer system. So the students’ first learning opportunity involved digging a hole for a septic system. In 1934 the school wanted to begin a football program, but there was opposition. In protest, students boycotted classes one day, going to nearby Governor’s Hill for a picnic. They won their battle. A team was formed, even though the school didn’t have uniforms or equipment. The players wore their overalls.

Whorton Creek School students and teacher, Madison County, Arkansas,1948.

Whorton Creek School students and teacher, 1948. Back, from left: J. Mathis, Blenda Mathis (teacher), and LaVerne Cook. Front, from left: Joyce Mathis, Barbara Fowler, and Barbara Carlock. Courtesy Barbara Robertson and the Madison County Genealogical and Historical Society

Up until 1954 state laws mandated segregation between the races. Shady Grove School District (near Whorton Creek) was created by the Madison County Court in the early 1870s as a “colored school” for the children of those freed blacks who had stayed in the county after the Civil War. But by 1946 there was only one African-American child of school age, and setting up separate accommodation for her would have been costly. So Laverne Cook was quietly enrolled into the Lower Whorton Creek School where by all accounts she was treated like the other students, participating in all school activities for the year she attended.

The state’s large number of small, often rural school districts led, in part, to school consolidation, beginning in 1948. The plan was favored by the county board of education but not by parents, who wanted to keep their community schools. The county’s supervisor of schools received several threats against his life. But, with careful explanation and time, folks began to see the benefits of grouping funds and resources into a few schools. The county went from 122 school districts to two, with only one today. The Huntsville School District is geographically the third-largest in the state. It operates six schools in Huntsville and St. Paul. But enrollment is dropping, with some students transferring to Elkins, Springdale, and Fayetteville schools, all in Washington County.

“The Kingston High School is a school with a soul.  . . . It is earnestly trying to meet the educational needs of a people typically American, in the unhampered environment of the beautiful Ozark Hills.  . . . Its goal is to give to the youth of the mountain sector of Arkansas such an appreciation of beauty, such a thorough knowledge of principles, such a vision of things worth while that, having taken hold of the handles of the plow, they will not look back.”
Otto Ernest Rayburn and W. Gordon Ross
Ozark Life, Kingston, Arkansas, 1925

Transportation
St. Louis and San Francisco passenger train, Patrick, Madison County, Arkansas,1920s-early 1930s.

St. Louis and San Francisco passenger train, Patrick, 1920s-early 1930s. James Bayles Collection (S-88-73-10)

The county’s vast hardwood forests were a magnet for railroad development. The first to be built into the county was the Fayetteville and Little Rock Railroad (soon purchased and expanded by the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad, the “Frisco”). In 1886 the initial line ran twenty-five miles southeast from Fayette Junction (Washington County) to Crosses, before pushing on to St. Paul and later Pettigrew by the end of the century. The short-lived Combs, Cass, and Eastern Railroad was built out of Combs by the J. H. Phipps Lumber Company of Fayetteville, to take advantage of a large stand of oak in nearby Franklin County.

The Frisco’s St. Paul Branch was important to the development of southern Madison County. Boomtowns and businesses grew along the line, including the timber and canning industries. Cash crops were shipped out as well, such as watermelon and tomatoes. By the 1930s the nation had entered the Great Depression. Much of the available timber had been cut down and the workers were gone, reducing the need for freight and passenger service. Without revenue, the railroad couldn’t afford to replace its worn-out infrastructure. The last scheduled train ran in July 1937.

Dedication of Highway 68, Huntsville Square, Madison County, Arkansas, November 10, 1949.

Dedication of Highway 68, Huntsville Square, November 10, 1949. With future governor Orval E. Faubus (speaking) and Governor Sid McMath (seated, fourth from left). Gov. Orval E. Faubus Collection (S-90-48-37)

In the 1940s portions of Highway 68 (now Highway 412) west of Huntsville had yet to be paved. When the work was finished in 1949, a grand celebration was held in Huntsville. Thousands of residents, visitors, and dignitaries, including Governor Sid McMath, came together for prayers, speeches, a parade, a ribbon cutting, and a homemade lunch on the square for a crowd of nearly 5,000. In later years, Governor Orval E. Faubus, a native of Greasy Creek (near Combs), continued to improve or build area roads and highways, in an effort to make Madison County an important “crossroads” for Northwest Arkansas.

Highway 68 dedication community dinner with food tables in center, Huntsville, Arkansas, November 10, 1949.

Highway 68 dedication community dinner with food tables in center, November 10, 1949. Golda Skaggs Collection (S-97-1-102)

Located on a shaved-off mountaintop at 1,748 feet above sea level, the Huntsville Municipal Airport is the highest airport in Arkansas. It was completed in 1986 with LaBarge Electronics in mind. The manufacturer of high-performance electronics needed a place for potential clients’ to land their corporate jets. Mayor Charles E. Coger led the effort to secure grants and other funding. He and others put in volunteer hours surveying the property, operating a bulldozer, and building a security fence.

“Remember, folks, bring enough [food] for yourself and some for our visitors [at the Highway 68 dedication]. . . . The least we can do for all our visitors is to feed them. That might look like a difficult job, but we know that when a Madison County housewife cooks an ordinary ‘dinner-on-the-ground’ meal, that it will feed at least two families beside her own. All we have to do is for each to do his own little part and there will be a super abundance.”
Orval E. Faubus
Madison County Record, November 3, 1949

Health
Kingston High School students exercising on the basketball court, Madison County, Arkansas,mid 1920s.

Kingston High School students exercising on the basketball court, mid 1920s. Rev. Elmer J. Bouher, photographer. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-124)

Doctors came to Madison County in the mid-1800s, some with college degrees, others having learned their craft by working with experienced physicians. Dr. George Counts started his forty-eight-year practice in Wesley in the late 1890s, visiting his patients first by horseback, then horse-drawn buggy, and later by car. He was said to have delivered two thousand babies. In Pettigrew, Dr. William Henry Mooney charged twenty-five cents to pull a tooth. Like most doctors, he took payment in the form of goods or labor, such as cured hams, horse feed, or a plowed garden. Mooney encouraged his son-in-law, Arthur Barker, to move his drugstore from Kingston to Pettigrew. The Mooney-Barker drug store opened in 1917, offering more than medicine over the years, including gasoline, poultry supplies, a soda fountain, bananas, and pawnbroker services.

Following the rapid rise of Eureka Springs (Carroll County) after the discovery of “healing waters” in 1879, other towns tried to establish their own health resorts. A two-story hotel and several cabins were built at Aurora on Grand Mountain, so patrons could take advantage of the Chalybeate Spring with its iron salts. In 1887 Hugh McDanield planned a hotel and spa at Big Spring near St. Paul, but died before construction could begin.

Beulah Frederick, a trained Red Cross nurse, came to Kingston around 1919 at the behest of the Reverend Elmer J. Bouher of the Kingston Community Presbyterian Church. It was part of his mission to see to the health needs of the community. Frederick taught hygiene to students and childcare to mothers, delivered babies, and ran a children’s clinic. A small health center began operating in 1926 with its first patient, a young man with typhoid. The standard treatment was medicine and three glasses of buttermilk daily. Healthful practices extended to the school as well, which had active exercise and sports programs for boys and girls.

Huntsville Memorial Hospital under construction, Huntsville, Arkansas, Summer 1950.

Huntsville Memorial Hospital under construction, Summer 1950. Roy’s Photoshop, photographer. May Reed Markley Collection (S-84-155-108)

In 1949 voters approved the construction of a county hospital in Huntsville. With the passage of an $80,000 bond issue and donations of construction materials, equipment, and labor, and cash and furnishings supplied through local clubs, the twenty-one bed Madison County Memorial Hospital soon opened. But questions about finances and management plagued the hospital and it closed around 1954. Hometown native Dr. Austin Smith opened a clinic in the building and was largely responsible for reopening the hospital in the mid-1960s. He was on hand in 1980 for groundbreaking ceremonies for the new Huntsville Memorial Hospital. But financial problems persisted. The hospital closed in 1992.

Since then several clinics and health centers have opened their doors including the Boston Mountain Rural Health Center and the Madison County Medical and Surgical Group. The latter was begun by Dr. Tom Whiting in part with community support of $40,000 in fund raisers and funding and equipment from an anonymous benefactor. The Madison County Health Coalition began in 2000 with the goal to “maintain and seek local resources to achieve better health for our community.” A recent campaign featured high school students recording anti-tobacco radio ads. The Madison County Health Unit offers many services such as family planning, vaccinations, public health preparedness, and environmental health issues such as general sanitation, water-well testing, and West-Nile virus surveillance.

“‘Everybody drank likker [liquor] then but nobody got drunk,’ Uncle George continued, ‘My daddy made us kids drink a tablespoonful of whiskey every morning before breakfast to keep the chills off. . . . I didn’t like the stuff.'”
George Hogg Brashears (as quoted by Steele T. Kennedy)
Ozarks Mountaineer, August 1961

Disaster
Aftermath of the May 29, 1925, fire in Huntsville, Arkansas.

Aftermath of the May 29, 1925, Huntsville fire.  J. C. Hawkins, photographer. Lucille Phillips Collection (S-99-1-277)

Madison County has seen its share of disasters. Major droughts in 1854, 1874, and 1901 caused much hardship and crop destruction. In 1884 sheets of rain fell for six hours, flooding Hock and Cobb creeks. A cabin housing two families was caught in the torrent and floated downstream. While the men were able to escape through the roof, the eight people trapped inside were drowned. In 1886 a heavy snow left twenty-four inches on the ground. Several years later, folks in the Drakes Creek area experienced a “black snow,” where a layer of dirt covered about fifteen inches of white snow. It was so cold that winter that the snowfall didn’t melt until April.

County records were lost each time the courthouse burned. When Huntsville was set on fire by Union forces during the Civil War, the records were taken by the Union Army to Springfield, Missouri, only to be lost or destroyed. Kingston was also destroyed during the war. Much of downtown Huntsville was lost to fire on two other occasions in the early 1900s.

Tornado damage at Marble, Arkansas, April 1945.

Tornado damage at Marble, April 1945. Carroll County Heritage Center Collection (S-85-67-5)

A 1945 tornado caused much devastation in the southern part of the county. In Crosses, only two buildings were left standing. At Japton, two women “were left sitting on a bed [uninjured] after the walls and roof had blown away.” A bolt of lightning hit a tree stump and blasted a large hole in the ground at Mt. Pleasant (near Whitener). In Aurora, nearly all the older buildings were blown down, including the school. At Wharton’s Creek “a valuable brood mare was blown a great distance” and had to be put down because of her injuries. In all, ten people were killed and many injured. Property damage was widespread, with about one hundred buildings destroyed.

“Not a thing could be salvaged [at the Sam Doss homestead in Marble]. The bodies of the mother and [her six] children were scattered promiscuously among the ruins. . . . The wind had whipped the clothing from their bodies, one of the children had been blown to the top of a bush. Keeping a strange watch over the place was the family dog, that walked in circles about the debris.”
Madison County Record, April 19, 1945

Recreation
Outhouse race at Hawgfest, Huntsville, Arkansas, August 7, 1993.

Outhouse race at Hawgfest, Huntsville, August 7, 1993. J. D. Watkins, photographer. Jay-Dee Studio Collection (86101)

Fiddlers contests were popular county-wide during the 1800s and up into the mid-1900s. Musicians competed in categories such as “old time,” stunt, jazz, or classical. Prizes included cash, merchandise, and services such as a sack of tobacco, a set of fiddle strings, or a “haircut, shave, massage, tonic, etc.” In 1926 seventy-seven-year-old John C. Calico of Drakes Creek was awarded the champion-fiddler title for Arkansas. During the 1920s and 1930s folks living in Marble gathered on the banks of the Kings River for fish fries. In 1929 a huge turkey and goose shoot was held in Huntsville, just in time for Thanksgiving. The tradition carried on there and in other communities like Alabam and Kingston for many years.

Rodeos were popular as well and included many offerings. At the two-day rodeo and picnic in Hindsville in 1927 there were speakers, races, ball games, a band concert, barbecue dinners, bronco-busting, and airplane stunt-flying by the Quinn-Willard Flying Circus. Huntsville held its first amateur rodeo in 1949. Organized by the Huntsville Riding Club, the event featured a parade with horse riders and floats and traditional rodeo contests such as calf roping and bull riding. In 1962 the new Sky-High Arena opened on Governor’s Hill. Today’s rodeo offers events for women, including barrel-racing and breakaway-roping.

The Huntsville city park (now Polk Square) was the scene for many community activities during the 20th century. In the 1930s the park was home to turkey shoots, Easter egg hunts, celebrations of local veterans, political speeches, concerts, carnival rides and shows, Farm Bureau picnics, and reunions of former residents. In 1986 the Chamber of Commerce organized “Hawgfest,” a celebration held at the park and other venues. Over the years the event included food such as “Pig-Out Barbeques” and “Hawgdogs” and such activities as outhouse races, a rodeo, a golf tournament, arts and crafts booths, a “Hawgshoot” with muzzle-loading shotguns, music, a 5K run, contests for lip-syncing to songs, “hillbilly hawg-calling,” and the catching of greased pigs. The last festival was held in 2004.

“The canning factory at Delaney is almost completed. . . . A dance was given and two hundred and seventy-five people were present and most all took part in the dance. Even though some were opposed to this gathering, it was a very successful affair . . . there being not a bit of trouble from any cause.”
Madison County Record, April 25, 1925

Tourism
Visitors at Richland Creek, Ozark National Forest, Madison County, Arkansas, 1980s.

Visitors at Richland Creek, Ozark National Forest, Madison County, Arkansas, 1980s. Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism Collection (S-85-247-6)

Madison County became a member of the Ozark Playgrounds Association in the 1920s, a regional group out of Missouri which promoted tourism in the “Land of a Million Smiles.” Newspaper articles touted the charms of the county but also told about the need for better roads. Tourist camps were established in Kingston and Brashears Junction to meet the needs of the motoring public who wanted to stop and camp awhile. Although Huntsville leaders discussed creating such a camp, it appears that one was never built.

The Crossbowettes strike up a pose, Governor's Hill, Huntsville, Arkansas, October 1962.

The Crossbowettes strike up a pose, Governor’s Hill, Huntsville, October 1962. From left: Beverly Alverson, Shirley Duncan Franklin, Susie McDonald Montgomery, Linda Owens Womack, Diane McKinney Johnson, and Juanita Thompson Shephard. Pat Donat, photographer. Northwest Arkansas Times Collection (NWAT D-62-10)

In 1957 shooting enthusiast Arlis Coger worked to lure an annual crossbow tournament from Blanchard Springs in north-central Arkansas to Huntsville, donating land on Governor’s Hill for the festivities. Medieval-themed activities included costumed contestants, crossbow shooting, a queen and her court, and a banquet. The Crossbowettes, a high-school girls’ organization, performed archery tricks for an enthusiastic crowd. The tournament moved to Withrow Springs State Park in 1966, where the event’s pageantry lessened over time, only to resume again in the late 1990s as Renaissance festivals gained in popularity. The last tournament was held in 2003.

Swimming pool at Withrow Springs State Park near Huntsville, Arkansas, June 1968.

Swimming pool at Withrow Springs State Park near Huntsville, June 1968. Charles Bickford, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-1968-8)

Much of the county’s tourism is nature-based. Just north of Huntsville, Withrow Springs State Park opened in 1965, following a gift of land from timber baron Roscoe Hobbs. Featuring campsites, picnic areas, trails, and the county’s only public swimming pool, the park was a popular destination. Attendance has declined in recent years, especially with the 2018 closure of the pool because of repair costs. Other outdoor attractions include the Kings River Falls Natural Area near Venus, Sweden Creek Falls near Kingston, and the Ozark National Forest. The forest covers much of the southern part of Madison County, extending through sixteen counties in total.

The county’s small, winding roads through farmland and forests are a great draw for motorcyclists, especially in the fall. A few community events have popped up, including Huntsville’s first “Bluegrass and BBQ” event, which began in 2017. In Kingston, performers play in the downtown gazebo as part of “Music on the Square.” Realizing that tourism should be regionally based, rather than by city or county, Madison County economic development officials joined a 2012 initiative to brand four counties with the slogan, “Explore Northwest Arkansas.” A website includes such Huntsville attractions as the farmers’ market, Oakridge Golf Course, and Mitchusson Park Bike Course, designed for riders to hone their mountain-biking skills. Volunteers helped build several stunt features “designed to mimic natural elements found in the region.”

“The cotton pickin’ government is trying to take us over. . . . It’s already taken over the Buffalo (River). Now they’re trying to work down and take both sides of the Kings River. . . . Now they’re making the area a tourist attraction, so bureaucrats can come in here and lollygag and kick us out. I came out to here to get away from civilization, not to pile up in the middle of the big mucky mucks.”
Al Bergstrom
Arkansas Democrat, May 7, 1979

 

Credits

“Early Madison County Doctors Part 3,” Madison County Musings, Vol. XX, No. 1 (Spring 2001).

“How Noark Girl Scout Camp Program Began.” Special Collections, Mullins Library, University of Arkansas, Fayetteville, circa 1970.

“Withrow Springs State Park.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 7-18-2018. (accessed 4/2019)

Abernathy, Donna. A Common Purpose: Powering Communities and Empowering Members, 1938-2013. Ozarks Electric Cooperative: Fayetteville, 2013. (accessed 4/2019)

Bernet, Brenda. “Square to draw from new bypass.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 6-21-2012.

Bowden, Bill. “Madison County to get its first stoplight.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 1-31-2016. (accessed 4/2019)

Burnett, Abby, Ellen Compton, and John D. Little.  When The Presbyterians Came to Kingston: Kingston Community Church, 1917-1951. Bradshaw Mountain Publishers: Kingston, Arkansas, 2000.

Burnett, Abby. “Solid Waste, Water Projects Bring Madison County to 1993.” Springdale Morning News, 1-21-1993.

Cannon, Delores. “Huntsville: ’88 brought many business, civic improvements.” Northwest Arkansas Times, 3-19-1989.

Combs, Jasper H. “Claims Rich Deposits of Ore In Ozarks.” Madison County Record, 11-16-1950.

Community and Conflict: The Impact of the Civil War in the Ozarks. “Madison County, Arkansas.” Springfield-Green County (MO) Library District, 2009. (accessed 3/2019)

Deane, Ernie. “Crossbowmen Gather for Tournament.” Springdale News, 10-11-1978.

Deane, Ernie. “Historical Relations of Two Madison Counties.” Undated and unsourced newspaper column.

Dornaus, Margaret. “Huntsville is coming to life.” Northwest Arkansas Times, 3-29-1987.

Dougan, Michael B. “Isaac Murphy (1799-1882).” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 2-11-2019. (accessed 3/2019)

Duggan, Thomas. “St. Louis and San Francisco-St. Paul Branch.” Unpublished manuscript, Shiloh Museum of Ozark History research files, 2014.

Dyer, Dorothy Roberts. “The Black Snow of 1894-1895.” Madison County Musings, Vol. XXI, No. 1 (Spring 2002).

Edmisten, Bob. “Land of Crossbow to Come Alive.” Springdale News, 10-3-1967.

Edmisten, Robert. “Legendary Town Lives On, Historic Store, Bank Remain Vital Cogs on Kingston Square.” Springdale Morning News, 4-19-2004.

Explore Northwest Arkansas. “New Mountain Bike Hotspots.” 8-30-2018. (accessed 5/2019)

Facebook. “Madison County Cowboy Church.” (accessed 4/2019)

Faubus, Orval E. “Huntsville’s Blessings, And Its Great Need.” Madison County Record, 7-11-1963.

Faubus, Orval. “A Great Day For Madison County.” Madison County Record, 11-3-1949.

Gearhart, Mary. “Thriving Huntsville the center of ‘Booger County.'” Northwest Arkansas Times, 7-25-1988.

Gittings, Misty. “Union Colonies.” Springdale News, 3-4-2012.

Haddigan, Michael. “’70s Refugees From Cities Leaving Hills.” Arkansas Gazette, 11-28-1983.

Haden, Rebecca, and Joy Russell. “Madison County.CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 2-5-2019. (accessed 3/2019)

Harrington, Rod. “Assessor: Benton County residents moving to Madison County.” Madison County Record, 2-1-2018.

Harrington, Rod. “Butterball to reduce lagoon use.” Madison County Record, 9-6-2018.

Harrington, Rod. “Downtown merchants hopeful for change after tough year.” Madison County Record, 11-29-2018.

Harrington, Rod. “Hatfield: Huntsville ‘making progress’ economically.” Madison County Record, 2-1-2018.

Harrington, Rod. “Living with liquor in Madison County.” Madison County Record, 11-25-2018.

Harrington, Rod. “‘We’re desperate,’ Officials, residents plead with lawmakers to address jail problems.” Madison County Record, 2-1-2018.

Hatfield, Kevin. “Huntsville Massacre.CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 6-19-2018. (accessed 3/2019)

Hatfield, Kevin. “Kingston School.CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 2-3-2012. (accessed 3/2019)

Hatfield, Kevin. A Chronological History of Huntsville, Arkansas. Madison County Genealogical and Historical Society: Huntsville, 2013.

Hatfield, Kevin. The History of Education in Madison County, Arkansas, 1827-1948. PhD diss., University of Arkansas (Fayetteville), May 1991.

Head, Kenneth. “Girl Scouts to close four camps.” Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 2-27-2016.

Headwaters School. “The Short History.” (accessed 4/2019; no longer available 3/2020))

Hebda, Dwain. “Cowboy Churches.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 1-29-2019. (accessed 4/2019)

Heuston, John. “Withrow Spring Still Soothes the Weary Traveler.” Springdale News, 2-17-1966.

Huntsville Republican. “Huntsville To Have Electric Lights.”12-3-1914. Reprinted in Madison County Musings, Vol. XXX, No. 4 (Winter 2011).

Huntsville School District. “Huntsville Public Schools.” (accessed 4/2019)

Jackson, Bert. “Drilling Crew Starts Search for Oil on Hargis Farm East of Huntsville.” Madison County Record, 4-3-1952.

Johnson, Oscar S. “Early History of Madison County.” Madison County Record, 6-10-1965.

Johnson, Oscar. “Oscar Johnson Records Madison County History.” Madison County Record, 9-25-1986.

Kennedy, Steele T. “Historic Madison County Becomes the Country of Tomorrow.” Ozark Mountaineer, Vol. 5, No. 8 (June 1957).

Kennedy, Steele T. “‘Old Skully:’ Famous Landmark in the Boston Range.” Ozarks Mountaineer (Vol. 39, Nos. 6 & 7, August 1991), as quoted in Madison County Musings, Vol. XX, No.1 (Spring 2001).

Laking, George. “History of the Withrow Renaissance Festival.” Withrow Faire, 1998. (accessed 4/2019)

Lehovec, Bettina. “Buddhists Dedicate Center.” Benton County Daily Record, 10-29-2011.

Littrell, Ellery. “$4,200 Pledged to County Hospital by Personal Notes; $2,000 Needed.” Madison County Record, 3-5-1953.

Madison County Musings. “Early Madison County, Arkansas Doctors, Part 8.” Vol. XXVI, No. 1 (Spring 2007).

Madison County Musings. “Some Madison County Doctors.” Vol. XVII, No. 1 (Spring 1998).

Madison County Record. “2,000 Persons Attend Rodeo.” 11-28-1949.

Madison County Record. “Barbecue, Two Big Days” ad, 7-14-1927.

Madison County Record. “Bit of Kingston History: The Brick Church, Rochester, New York, 1924, More Lobbying.” 7-12-1990.

Madison County Record. “Board Recommends Sale Of Madison County Hospital.” 3-17-1966.

Madison County Record. “Closing Of Huntsville Hospital Imminent.” 12-24-1992.

Madison County Record. “Combs gold mine.6-17-2004.

Madison County Record. “Coming of Swift Plant Means Goal Is Reached.8-31-1972.

Madison County Record. “Concerned Citizens Seek Answers From Hospital Board.” 3-19-1992.

Madison County Record. “Construction Begins on Madison County Memorial Hospital.” 9-22-1949.

Madison County Record. “The County Hospital Project.” 5-12-1949.

Madison County Record.” Crosses Community.”  6-9-1938.

Madison County Record. “Dr. Smith Turns First Shovel In Ground Breaking Ceremonies.” 1-31-1980.

Madison County Record. “Fiddlers Contest Announced For Huntsville Reunion.7-21-1927.

Madison County Record. “The Georgetown ‘Free Oil’ Field.” 10-14-1948.

Madison County Record. “Greatest Celebration In Huntsville’s History.” 11-10-1949.

Madison County Record. “Hawgfest News.” 3-27-1986.

Madison County Record. “Highest Airport in State Dedicated.” undated (June 1986).

Madison County Record. “Hospital Investment Plan Discussed At Rally Tuesday.8-24-1950.

Madison County Record. “Latest Oil News.” 5-23-1929.

Madison County Record. “Lime Company Working Again on Highway 68.” 9-25-1952.

Madison County Record. “Madison County Hospital Changes Name,” 2-6-1975.

Madison County Record. “Madison County Hospital Will Remain Open, Doctors Staying,” 1-15-1953.

Madison County Record. “The Madison County Memorial Hospital—To Grow Or To Die.” 8-20-1953.

Madison County Record. “Madison County Unit of Ozarks Playgrounds.” 11-14-1929.

Madison County Record. “Madison County Voters Approve Hospital Plan.” 7-14-1949.

Madison County Record. “New Hospital To Open Doors Monday, October 2.” 9-28-1950.

Madison County Record. “NYA Resident Training Project Co-Sponsored by Public Schools.” 10-19-1939.

Madison County Record. “Oil Drilling Gets Started in Clifty Area.” 8-4-1949.

Madison County Record. “Oil Drilling in Progress on Two Wells Near Georgetown.” 7-15-1948.

Madison County Record. “Old Fiddlers Contest Proved Big Attraction.” 3-25-1926.

Madison County Record. “One Man’s Opinion On a Community Problem.” 3-15-1951.

Madison County Record. “REA Celebration, Kingston, May 10.” 5-2-1940.

Madison County Record. “Rural Electrification Now Fact for Madison County.” 5-26-1938.

Madison County Record. “Should Better Acquaint Selves With Electrical Use.” 6-2-1938.

Madison County Record. St. Paul High School basketball tournament ad, 3-28-1940.

Madison County Record. “Stave Market for Beer Barrels.” February 1933, reprinted in Madison County Musings, Vol. XVIII, No. 3 (Fall 1999).

Madison County Record. “Sutton Resigns As Hospital Board Head.” 1-1-1953.

Madison County Record. “Tomato Growers Dance.” 4-25-1925. Reprinted in Madison County Musings, Vol. 8, No. 3 (Fall 1989).

Madison County Record. “Tornado—Worst Disaster in Madison County History.”  4-19-1945. Reprinted in Madison County Musings, Vol. XII, No. 1 (Spring 1993).

Madison County Record. “Turkey Shooting Match to Become Annual Event.” 11-21-1929.

Madison County Record. “Turkeys Shipped By Thousands From County.” 11-14-1929.

Madison County Record. “Work on Highway 68 Spans Four Administrations.” 11-3-1949.

Martin, Wayne. Pettigrew, Arkansas, Hardwood Capital of the World. Shiloh Museum of Ozark History: Springdale, Arkansas, 2010.

Massey, Richard. “Madison County remains rural.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 7-26-2010.

Massey, Richard. “Mill owner rebuilding days after fire.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 12-13-2009.

Masterson, Mike. “Huntsville clinic started from zip.” Northwest Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 5-7-2017.

No-Ark Girl Scout Camp brochure, circa 1967.  Special Collections, Mullins Library, University of Arkansas, Fayetteville.

Northwest Arkansas Times. “Early Alabama Visitor Killed in Accident in Madison County.” 6-14-1960.

Northwest Arkansas Times. “Pioneers Of Madison County Established Churches Early.” Undated article in Shiloh Museum research files.

Owens, J.  J. “History of A Madison County Industry.” Madison County Record, 1-20-1972.

Owens, Nathan. “Hemp firm partners with UA researchers to develop cannabis.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 1-1-2019.

Ozark Natural Science Center. “Our History.” (accessed 4/2019)

Pacher, Sara. “Rural Life in Northwest Arkansas.” Mother Earth News, Sep/Oct 1986. (accessed 4/2019)

Painter, Steve. “Counties rebrand tourism effort.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 4-20-2012.

Phillips, Jared M. “Back-to-the-Land Movement.CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 12-20-2016. (accessed 4/2019)

Putthoff, Flip. “Clifty landowners raise stink over Tyson sludge odor.” Rogers Morning News, 9-6-1989.

Rayburn, Otto Ernest. “Kingston Gold Mine.” Kingston Mirror, 12-7-1929. Reprinted in Madison County Record, 4-5-1990.

Rhodes, Sonny. “Tiny Ozark town a mixture of old, new.” Arkansas Democrat, 5-7-1979.

Russell, Joy, and Kevin Hatfield. “Timeline of events that shaped Madison County.” Madison County Record, 9-29-2011.

Russell, Joy. “Black History in Madison County.” Madison County Musings, Vol. XXXII, No. 1 (Spring 2013).

Russell, Joy. “Kingston, Arkansas, Part Three.” Madison County Musings, Vol. XVIII, No. 1 (Spring 1999).

Russell, Joy. “Madison County Memories.” Madison County Record, 11-30-2017.

Russell, Joy. “Madison County Memories.” Madison County Record, 4-27-2017.

Russell, Joy. “Madison County Memories.” Madison County Record, 4-13-2017.

Russell, Joy. “School integrated early.” Madison County Record, 9-29-2011.

Russell, Joy. “Split allegiances led to Massacre.” Madison County Record, 9-29-2011.

Russell, Joy. Email re: Upper Campground and present-day lumber sawmills. 4-24-2019.

Shelnutt, Matt. “Camp Noark, Girl Scout staple, likely to close.” Madison County Record, 3-10-2016.

Shelnutt, Matt. “Last 7 years will determine county’s fate for decades to come.” Madison County Record, 7-10-2014.

Shelnutt, Matt. “Willhite mill rises from the ashes.” Madison County Record, 10-7-2010.

Smith, A. T. “WWII vets learned farm training.” Madison County Record, 2-10-2005.

Snipes, Mike and Ruth Ann. “Gatherin’ at Muddy Gap,” Arkansas Democrat, 7-4-1965.

Springdale News. “Huntsville Airport: Do-It-Yourself.”  9-1-1985.

Springdale News. “Old Houses Reflect Historical Era.” 10-16-1977.

Springdale News. “Things Changing in Madison County.” 2-21-1982.

Steed, Stephen. “Poultry plant odor divides town.” Arkansas Gazette, 9-5-1989.

Sutton, Bob E. Early Days in the Ozarks, Book I of IV Books. Times-Echo Press: Eureka Springs, Arkansas, 1950.

Thompson, Henry. “Uncle Henry Thompson Writes of Old Times.” Madison County Record, 4-26-1951. Reprinted in Madison County Musings, Vol. XXXVII, No. 3 (Fall 2018).

Tibetan Cultural Institute of Arkansas. “Land of Infinite Bliss.” (accessed 4/2019)

Tolliver, Preston. “Hemp company, university to start Hindsville operation.” Madison County Record, 12-20-1918.

Tolliver, Preston. “Huntsville poised for growth, but needs help getting the ball rolling.” Madison County Record, 7-12-2018.

Tolliver, Preston. “Huntsville Schools prepping for drops in future funding.” Madison County Record, 11-2-2017.

Tolliver, Preston. “Jail housing cost county $575K in 2018.” Madison County Record, 1-10-2019.

Tolliver, Preston. “Ministerial Alliance: Finding help through fellowship.” Madison County Record, 6-24-2016.

Turnbo, Silas Claiborne. “A Way Back in the Early Days of Madison County, Ark.Turnbo Manuscripts by Silas Claiborne Turnbo, 1844-1925, Springfield-Greene County Library. (accessed 4/2019)

Wahlquist, W. H. “Some Sixty-Year Old History of Huntsville and Vicinity,” Madison County Record, 12-24-1936. Reprinted in Madison County Musings, undated.

Walden, Kate Hudson, Dixie Hudson Roberts, and L. N. Hudson. “History of Marble, Madison County, Arkansas.” Madison County Musings, Vol. XIII, No. 3 (Fall 1994).

Walkenhorst, Emily. “Migration fuels state’s growth.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 4-18-2019.

White, Ray. “N.Y.A. Camp Swinging Into Peak of Working Power.” Madison County Record, 2-9-1939.

Wilson, Dorothy Ware. Rial Williams’ Thirty-One Children. ARC Press of Cane Hill: Cane Hill, Arkansas, 1995.

Wood, Mary. “Ozark-St. Francis National Forests.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 3-6-2014. (accessed 4/2019)

Zajicek, Anna, and Allyn Lord. “Yellowhammer.CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas, 11-2-2017. (accessed 4/2019)

Scenes of Newton County

Scenes of Newton County

Online Exhibit
19th-Century Settlement
1901 map of Newton County, Arkansas

Modified portion of the 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” published by George F. Cram, Chicago.

Native Americans once lived in, farmed, and hunted throughout what’s now Newton County. In Boxley Valley, archeologists have found prehistoric home and work sites dating back almost 7,000 years. An 1817 treaty with the U.S. government brought Cherokee settlers to Northwest Arkansas and present-day Newton County. Most of them moved to Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma) in 1828, the result of another treaty with the government. Arkansas became a state in 1836. When Newton County was carved out of Carroll County in 1842, it was named for Thomas Willoughby Newton, then U.S. Marshal for Arkansas. One year later Jasper became the county seat. The first whites entering the area prior to statehood were hunters, trappers, and a few eager homesteaders. Some had Cherokee spouses and came with the first migration of Cherokee. They stayed in the area when the tribe was forced further west. Settlers used the forest to build their homes and selected rich bottomland to grow their crops. By 1850 there were 288 families in the county, numbering 1,711 people. Most were small-time farmers, without economic reason for holding enslaved workers. At the beginning of the Civil War there were about 25 African-Americans in the county, just a fraction of the overall population. Like much of Northwest Arkansas, loyalties were divided within communities and families—some sympathized with the Union while others were for the Confederacy. The county suffered its share of privation from bushwhackers, guerrilla bands, and skirmishes. Its valuable chemical and mineral resources were used for making gunpowder and bullets. After the war, the economy grew due to increased zinc and lead mining in the northern half of the county. Mines with colorful names like “Belle of Wichita” popped up everywhere, leading to boomtowns that flourished for a time. The rough terrain and remote location caused early railway planners to bypass the county entirely, making it the only county in Arkansas never to have a railroad.

20th-Century Growth
Logging truck, Newton County, Arkansas, 1970s-1980s.

Logging truck, Newton County, 1970s-1980s. Carl P. Hitt, photographer. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-2016-24-32)

By 1900 the population had swelled to 12,538, due in part to land speculators and new, out-of-state homesteaders. Timber harvesting joined mining as a major economic force. Large lumber companies and many local individuals bought thousands of acres of timber land. Numerous sawmills and logging camps were set up to harvest and process logs into railroad ties, mine props, barrel staves, pencils, dimensional lumber, equipment handles, furniture, and the like. It wasn’t long before the county’s extensive virgin forests were cut-over.

At the turn of the 20th century, cotton was a primary source of income for area farmers, but boll weevils decimated this cash crop. Other important agricultural products included livestock, wheat, corn, oats, and fruit. But without reliable and inexpensive transportation, these industries failed to thrive as long-term sources of revenue.

Newton County experienced a brief industry boom during World War I, fueled by the need for metals in the manufacture of cartridge and shell casings. Land rich in zinc and lead fostered the establishment of mines in Ponca, Pruitt, and Bald Hill. But a drop in prices and the inability to easily export these resources after war’s end lead to their demise.

The population of Newton County dropped steadily from 1900 to 1960, with an all time low of around 5,700 residents. It began a slow recovery beginning in the 1960s with the influx of newcomers arriving with the back-to-the-land movement. This growth continued in the 1980s.

21st-Century Future
Canoeists on the Buffalo River, Newton County, about 1989.

Canoeists on the Buffalo River, Newton County, about 1989. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-2016-24-41)

The county’s rugged geography has had a significant impact on its history and people. The progressive changes brought about in the past 100 years for most of the U.S. were late to arrive. Rural electrification was introduced as late as 1937; the first high-power lines weren’t installed until 1949. The first modern roads did not come until the 1950s, preventing sustained growth in manufacturing and industry.

However, it is the very nature of Newton County’s geographic seclusion which is largely responsible for the preservation of the natural beauty which attracts visitors from all over the world. Today tourism is the county’s major industry. Attractions include dude ranches and the Buffalo River which draws over 800,000 visitors each year. Ecotourism activities like hiking, camping, caving, outdoor cookouts, rock-climbing, and zip-lining in the Ozark National Forest and Lost Valley are popular. Many retirees come to the county to enjoy an easy-going lifestyle and beautiful scenery.

Timber continues to play an important economic role. While production has dramatically decreased over the decades, small-scale sawmills and other wood-product companies are still found amongst the hillsides.

The 2010 census reflects the relative isolation of Newton County. With 8,330 residents it is the 7th least-populated county in the state. Its population density is just 10 people per square mile. The largest city is the county seat of Jasper, with 466 people. Countywide, the median income is about $17,000 per person. More than 8,000 people self-identify as white, 9 as African-American, 90 as Native American, 25 as Asian, and 141 as having Hispanic origin.

Newton County’s rural past is still evident in the small, isolated communities tucked amongst its hillsides and valleys. This way of life is recognized and treasured in many ways, from the designation of the Buffalo as the country’s first National River in 1972 to the creation of the Big Buffalo Valley Historic District at Boxley in 1987. Fayetteville author Donald Harington immortalized the long-gone community of Murray via his mythical and magical “Stay More” novels. In them he blended the speech and manners of rural Newton County with plenty of tall-tales involving six generations of the Ingledew clan.

Newton County Close-Ups

Newton County Courthouse

 

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, 1927.

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, July 3, 1927.  John Robinson Collection (S-99-66-291)

 

“Most everyone became panic stricken, rushing down the main aisle for the door, screaming and shouting. . . . All was in wild confusion and the noise was so loud that it was heard a mile or more away.”

J. Town Greenhaw
(Jasper, AR) Informer, February 28, 1948

There have been several courthouses in Newton County over the years. The first was a log structure, burned during the Civil War. After the war, court was held in several places, including a doctor’s office, a school building, and a saloon. Around 1873 Robbie Hobbs was charged with building a courthouse that would “last forever.” He built it out of cobblestone and coated the walls with mortar, polishing them until they were smooth and hard. Supposedly, a woman picked at the finish one day and made a hole. Some townsfolk, unsatisfied with the quality of the builder’s work, are said to have killed Hobbs.

A Christmas Eve party in the mid 1880s was held in the courtroom, even though a few cracks had begun to appear in the building’s walls. As the people awaited their gifts, someone shouted, “The courthouse is falling!” Panic struck. Some ran into the wood stove, knocking down the stove pipe. Many made a dash for the door while others leaped from the windows. Out on the lawn, women screamed for their children as doctors examined the wounded. Eventually the crowd quieted enough to receive their gifts. Apparently the building was strong enough to last another 15 or so years.

In 1902 land was purchased on the town square to build a new, two-story, limestone-veneer structure. In 1938 the courthouse burned to the ground, possibly as a result of arson. Many records were destroyed. A new courthouse, built by the Works Progress Administration, was begun in 1939 and completed three years later. Billed as fireproof, the Art Deco-style building has a concrete foundation and is made of stone quarried from the Little Buffalo River. It cost $42,000. The building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994.

Jasper’s courthouse square has been the scene of many celebrations including the Newton County Fair and the dedication of the paving of Highway 7.

 

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, circa 1984.

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, circa 1984. Mary Parsons, photographer. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-84-90-17)

 

Civil War
Susie Villines with a kettle from the saltpeter works at Bat Cave, Boxley Valley, Newton County, Arkansas,about 1960.

Susie Villines with a kettle from the saltpeter works at Bat Cave, Boxley Valley, about 1960. It was used as a wash kettle for many years and first came into the family from Mrs. Villines’ grandfather, Abraham Clark. Courtesy Kenneth L. Smith, photographer.

“The enemy, surprised, barely attempted to form and scattered. …They fled in dismay, a race for life. In the charge and in pursuit for 8 miles, 30 were killed, a number wounded, and 8 taken prisoners. 23 heads of horses captured, and some 25 stand of arms, the larger portion of which was destroyed.”

Col. John E. Phelps
Second Arkansas [Union] Cavalry
April 23, 1864

The 1860 census listed 25 enslaved African-Americans for Newton County, less than one percent of the total population. Although there were no major Civil War battles in Newton County, skirmishes, bushwhackers, guerrilla bands, and divided families took their toll. Like the rest of Northwest Arkansas, some residents allied with the Union while others joined the Confederacy. The area’s many caves and isolated valleys hid men and supplied cover for military activities.

Malinda Newberry Logan lived on Kenner Creek near the Hopewell Community. During the war bushwhackers came to her home to steal food. They also ripped open the feather mattresses and rode their horses over them. The bedding was re-stuffed with dried leaves, causing a later band of marauding bushwhackers to remark, “Look here at this damn hog bed.” Malinda heard about a neighboring family who tried to hide their cured meat within a wall. The meat was discovered when grease stains penetrated the wood during warm weather.

The area’s natural resources were vital to regional war efforts. Lead deposits were mined to make bullets. Confederate forces established a saltpeter works at Bat Cave, near the headwaters of the Buffalo River. Saltpeter (potassium nitrate) is used to make gunpowder. It’s often found in the soil of caves heavy with bat and bird droppings. The soil was dug out and removed to wood vats. Water was filtered through and then boiled in large, iron kettles for hours, causing the formation of nitrate crystals. In January 1863 the First Iowa Cavalry destroyed the works, burning and smashing the equipment. The kettles were rescued by locals and put to use for washing clothes and scalding hogs, well into the 20th century. A few still sit in yards today.

The county’s biggest skirmishes occurred in April 1864. During the battle of Whiteley’s Mill (now Boxley), Confederate guerrilla bands, including one lead by Captain John Cecil, fought a scout patrol lead by Captain William Orr of the Second Arkansas (US) Cavalry. Cecil, a Confederate, was Newton County’s former sheriff; his brothers fought for the Union. After two hours of fighting, the Union side withdrew due to lack of ammunition.

A few days later Orr joined with Major Melton and others to search for Confederates whose mission was to disrupt Union supply trains passing through the county from southern Missouri. The Union forces tried to sneak up on the Confederates, who were camped in Limestone Valley, but were spotted by a scout. Still, the Confederate camp was in disarray when it was attacked on either side by Union soldiers, who pursued the fleeing Confederates for eight miles through wooded mountains.

Foodways
Workers possibly threshing oats, with a cornfield in the background, Western Grove, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s.

Workers possibly threshing oats, with a cornfield in the background, Western Grove, 1910s. Boone County Library/Edith Welburn Collection (S-87-127-88)

“The only obstacle in raising turkeys in those days was that the woods was full of wild turkey, and my turkeys would mix with them and refuse to return to their home.”

James Villines
History of Newton County, 1950

Early settlers generally raised enough food and livestock to meet their immediate needs. Most farms were small, given the steep and heavily forested hills. Farmers grew clover, sorghum, corn, peas, and beans in the river bottoms and along the mountain “benches,” narrow shelves of land. Larger farms existed in the northeast section of the county and along the river bottoms, where fields of barley, oats, rye, corn, alfalfa, and wheat grew well. Around the turn of the 20th century cotton was the principal crop, but boll weevils took their toll.

Families ground their corn into cornmeal at home or, more likely, took it to their local grist mill, such as the Whiteley Mill in Boxley Valley. Hogs were fattened up and slaughtered in the fall. The dead hog was scalded in a vat of hot water and hung up by its back legs. The hair was scraped off, the blood drained out, and the entrails removed. Then the carcass was butchered. The meat was salted down and hung in the smokehouse for curing. The fat was rendered into lard, the skin fried into cracklings, and the remaining bits turned into sausage and head cheese. “Hog-killing time” was often a time for neighbor to help neighbor. They’d share both work and meat. Children enjoyed playing with the “balloon” made from the hog’s bladder.

In the late 1800s, James “Beaver Jim” Villines grew corn in the rich bottomland of Boxley Valley. But first he had to clear the land of a thick growth of river cane. It was hard work because, after the cane had been dug out, it had to be burned. But the soil was rich and Villines could get 50 bushels of corn or more per acre. He raised turkeys, grew sweet potatoes, and sold seed and plants to his neighbors. Villines was a successful hunter, trapping otter, mink, and beaver. Beaver skins sold for $3 each while high-quality otter pelts went for $20.

Over in Low Gap, Isaac Whishon grew fruit trees and berries on a hillside bench. He was so good at it that he had excess fruit. He purchased an evaporator and began drying fresh apples and peaches. Sometimes he would spread cut fruit to dry on the roof of his home. His wife Cynthia turned the fruit into preserves and fruit butters.

Some farmers ran small-scale beef operations for the cash it would bring. In the early 1900s there were concerns about southern cattle being infected by ticks carrying Texas fever, a contagious and deadly disease. While local cattle might have some immunity, midwestern and northern cattle did not. It was feared that cattle shipped north for slaughter might bring the disease. In 1906 the federal government began a tick eradication program, asking farmers to dip their cattle biweekly in vats of pesticide. While some farmers welcomed the effort, many were against the program, angry about the government’s intervention. In Newton County, tick inspectors met resistance. One inspector noted, “Some trouble here at first, as many refused to dip cattle.” But in 1914 the county was considered free from Texas fever.

Religion
Dinner on the ground at Easter, Plumlee, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s.

Dinner on the ground at Easter, Plumlee, 1910s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-97)

“This little church [at Walnut Grove, in the Boxley Valley] has been the scene of worship and weddings, revivals, and funerals for many years. . . . Near the church is a cemetery where our babies, our spouses, our parents, and our grandparents rest in peace.”

Orphea Duty (1969)
Old Folks Talking, 2006

The first churches were small, log structures. As communities prospered, larger, wood-frame buildings were built. These buildings were often shared by churches, schools, and fraternal organizations. They were places where the community gathered for all kinds of events, from revivals to school pageants to fund-raising pie suppers.

Religious activities occurred outdoors as well. Baptisms were held in the Buffalo River and other county streams. In the summer and fall, brush arbor revivals were held under a rough wood structure roofed with brush and leaves. Participants often sat on wood benches to sing, testify, and listen to sermons. Dinners on the ground were social affairs held by the members of a congregation. Sheets and blankets laid on the ground in a long row held all kinds of wonderful food.

Circuit-riding preachers traveled by horseback from one country church to another, preaching to and praying with the locals. Families fed and housed the preachers whenever they passed through their community.

In Lurton, Uncle Dan Hefley tended to his flock at the Lurton Assembly for over 20 years, beginning in 1944. He could baptize up to 40 people a day. When she was young, Hefley’s daughter Lillie often traveled with him by foot or horseback to participate in revivals at Hasty, Low Gap, Jasper, Mt. Judea, and Gum Springs. Some revivals lasted over two weeks. Lillie remembered a few Sundays when her father couldn’t preach because the church’s altar, where he stood, would be filled with people seeking the Lord, wanting to be saved.

Timber
Jim Tate driving a log wagon, William Armer’s place, Osage Township, Newton County, Arkansas, 1910s-1920s.

Jim Tate driving a log wagon, William Armer’s place, Osage Township, 1910s-1920s. Eva Taylor and Wally Waits Collection (S-85-51-6)

“The breaking of the log jam [on the Buffalo River] became a risk for the floaters. . . . As long as the logs are in a jammed stage, a person can run across them with ease, but when they begin to separate, stepping on them causes the logs to turn. This is what happened to my brother [Craft J. Lackey]. When he finally made it to the bank, he lost no time in locating the foreman to tell him that he had no further desire to float logs.”

Daniel Boone Lackey
Arkansas Historical Quarterly, 1960

Early settlers in Newton County found virgin forests full of ancient oak, ash, walnut, pine, and hickory. Red cedars lined the banks of the Buffalo River. One amazing cedar tree near Pruitt was about 42 inches in diameter at the ground and around 85 feet tall.

Besides using timber for building homes and barns, wood had commercial value. Local farmers could cut logs or barrel stave bolts for a much-needed infusion of cash. In the Low Gap area, Amos B. Lackey cut cedar trees during the winter in the 1880s. One year he was able to buy luxuries for his family including a metal washboard and clothes wringer for his wife, a set of harnesses for himself, and a “Hot Springs” diamond ring (quartz) for his daughter.

Logging was hard work and held many risks. Portable sawmills and stave mills were set up throughout the county, moving from section to section. Without a railroad line running through the county, transporting logs to market was difficult. Mule teams were used to snake logs out of the woods and haul log wagons over rough roads to neighboring counties and their railroad depots. Beginning in the early 1900s, tens of thousands of red cedar logs were floated down the Buffalo River to be turned into pencils.

The timber woods were soon depleted. After operating out of Boxley Valley for over two decades, the Malnar brothers of Austria left around 1940 once they could no longer find white oaks big enough to turn into barrel staves. By the 1950s most of the first- and second-growth trees were gone. Without reliable timber sales, the local economy faltered. Today many county farmers still use their timber woods to supplement their income, whether by cutting firewood or selling logs to manufacturers.

In 1989 several local environmental groups opposed a large-scale logging operation east of Jasper by Mountain Pine Timber. They were concerned about its impact on water quality, wildlife, and soil conservation. But some residents were in favor of the logging, both for the work the industry would bring and to protect property rights.

The southern half of Newton County is part of the much larger Ozark-St. Francis National Forests. When it was created in 1908, what was then the Ozark National Forest was, for a time, the nation’s only major hardwood timber land protected by the government. Purchasing cut-over land where virgin timber once stood, the U.S. Forest Service aimed to provide a renewable hardwood source for the area’s wood-based industries. Under today’s multiple-use management system, the forests’ 1.2 million acres are used for timber harvesting, recreational activities, grazing, and protection of wilderness and wildlife management areas. Counties receive 25% of revenues from use of resources. Much of these funds come from timber sales.

The Great Depression
Mrs. Garrett Jones and children at their home, Newton County, Arkansas, 1933-1935.

Mrs. Garrett Jones and children at their home, Newton County, 1933-1935. Opal and Ernest Nicholson, photographers. Katie McCoy Collection (S-95-181-31)

“We heard a lot about the depression on the radio and in the newspapers, how it was so hard on everybody across the country. But we weren’t bothered by it that much. . . . Maybe out in the eastern part of the county people might have been on welfare, but here in Boxley we had our good farms, and we raised about everything that we needed.”

Orphea Duty (April 1, 1996)
Old Folks Talking, 2006

In the 1930s timber was playing out, jobs were becoming scarce, and a regional drought affected farming severely. In some ways, the Great Depression hurt city folks more than country folks. The latter were used to being self-sufficient, producing their own food and making or repairing much of what they needed.

Cash might be earned by selling animal skins, stave bolts (used in barrel making), or goldenseal roots and ginseng, medicinal plants which grew in the wild. ‘Seal was used as an antiseptic and to stop bleeding while ‘seng was prized in Asia for its believed ability to restore and prolong youth.

But for some, their farms were too poor or their luck too rotten to make things work. They left the county, seeking employment elsewhere. Over in Boxley Valley, Tom and Gracie Fults moved to Ohio while the children of Tim Villines, a former enslaved worker, relocated to Oklahoma.

Some county residents received aid from the federal government. Ernest and Opal Nicholson ran a relief program in Newton County. They worked with several caseworkers to administer to the needs of their clients, many of whom were widows or people with disabilities who had no way to earn an income. Help came in many forms. Some clients were issued beef or canned goods, provided with reading material, supplied with clothing and household necessities, or given funds to purchase windows and screening materials.

A few clients were found jobs at sawmills or driving trucks. Clients received encouragement and advice from the case workers. One child was told “how nice she would look with her face washed nice and clean” while a woman was encouraged to plant flowers “because of the social value to [the] home.” Caseworkers were said to have “accomplished some desirable results by mentioning the nice things which the clients had done and suggesting other improvements.”

Through its many programs, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) gave employment to a variety of folks. The Federal Writer’s Project hired people to create travel guides and interview settlers and former slaves. In what was then the Ozark National Forest, the Civilian Conservation Corps created miles of trails. The courthouse at Jasper was built by WPA work crews, as was the gymnasium at the Newton County Academy and the Little Buffalo River Bridge, both in Parthenon. In Boxley the crews built concrete outhouses.

Rural Electrification
Rural Electrification Administration meeting, Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, late 1930s.

Rural Electrification Administration meeting, Newton County courthouse, Jasper, late 1930s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-89)

“My dad [C. V. Burdine] went from house to house almost day and night for several weeks signing up people as members of Carroll Electric Cooperative so that electricity could be brought into our area. . . . One of Dad’s favorite sales pitches and reasons for wanting electricity . . . [was] to have good lights in schools and churches. That reason just about won everyone—even if they weren’t too interested in getting electricity for their home.”

Kathryn Burdine Wheeler
Rural Arkansas, May 1984

In 1940 when the state population stood at 1.95 million, only 112,050 Arkansans had electricity, mostly in larger towns and cities. While there were several power-generating facilities, distribution was a problem. The federal Rural Electrification Act (REA) of 1936 was meant to improve that situation, along with improving the lives and incomes of farmers struggling with flood, drought, and the Great Depression.

Rural electrification was costly. Farms and homes were spread out, sometimes with just a few potential customers per mile. It often wasn’t profitable for privately owned power companies to take on rural customers. But with REA loans electric cooperatives could be formed, sharing the costs amongst their members. One such co-op is Carroll Electric Cooperative Corporation, incorporated November 1937.

In October 1938, 150 Carroll County customers were able to turn on electric lights in their homes for the first time. Seeing the success of the new venture, neighboring counties, including Newton County, petitioned the cooperative for similar service. County extension agents and volunteers went from home to home, explaining the work of the cooperative and signing up members for $5. Local residents were hired to clear brush and trees from right-of-ways, earning a whopping $2.40 a day during a time when the going daily rate for farm work was about 75 cents or $1.00. Soon utility poles and giant spools of wire were being brought in on big trucks.

Early co-op members were wired for one outlet per house with one drop light in each room. Over in Vendor, young Kathryn Burdine and her family waited anxiously for the electricity to be turned on, pulling on the light-bulb chain every now and then to check. When the electricity finally came one August night in 1940, she thought the folks at church seemed a little self conscious in the brightly lit building.

Electricity allowed Kathryn’s mother to use an electric iron for the first time while Kathryn and her siblings could listen to the Grand Ole Opry on the radio without fear of running down the battery. Later on, she and a sister saved money from their jobs and, with their brother’s sale of a pig, the three of them were able to buy a refrigerator for their parents. It was such a luxury for her dad to be able to have a thermos of ice water when he worked his farm fields.

In 1948 the REA began surveying the route for a proposed 33,000-volt high-power line to Jasper.

Highway 7
Jasper mayor A. B. Arbaugh introducing Governor Orval Faubus at the Newton County (Arkansas) dedication of Highway 7, Jasper County courthouse, September 7, 1956.

Jasper mayor A. B. Arbaugh introducing Governor Orval Faubus at the Newton County dedication of Highway 7, Jasper County courthouse, September 7, 1956. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-87)

“All this weekend there has been lots of activity around the Town Square when folks have been working like beavers, cleaning up, getting ready for our ‘Big Day.’ . . . Every day we’ve seen folks washing windows, cutting grass . . . and a whole crew, directed by Mayor A.B. Arbaugh were raking leaves on the Court House lawn and sweeping all gutters clean.”

Jessie Lu Abell
(Jasper, AR) Informer, September 1956

Early roads were often maintained by local governments. Able-bodied men armed with shovel, pick, and pry bar were expected to work on their community’s roads four days each year. Those who could afford it hired men to do the job for them. Many of these roads were poorly built, constructed under an elected township road overseer with little engineering or construction experience.

As the automobile gained prominence, road building took on greater importance. The Arkansas State Highway Commission was created in 1913 to address the need for a statewide system of roads. During the first half of the 20th century, Highway 7 was a rough, gravel road. But the need to improve it grew.

Road crews paved the road between Boone County and Jasper first. At the June 1951 dedication of this stretch of highway, onlookers enjoyed a parade and listened to the Harrison High School band. They also heard from speakers such as U.S. Representative J. W. Trimble, U.S. Senator J. W. Fulbright, and Governor Sid McMath and his aide, Orval Faubus. A noon dinner was served complete with “fried chicken, roast pork and roast beef, potato chips, bread, pickles, coffee and cake.” Festivities were paid for by local merchants. Both the Harrison and Russellville chambers of commerce sent car caravans. A similar celebration was held in September 1956 to celebrate the paving work from Jasper on south.

With its completion, Highway 7 became the first paved road to traverse the whole county. It linked Jasper to the larger cities of Harrison in the north and Russellville in the south, with all of their job opportunities, professional services, and shopping choices. The highway wasn’t a boon for all. Small towns like Lurton which once had a booming economy, due in part to the local wood-handle mill, suffered when it was bypassed by the highway.

The road linked Arkansas to Newton County, ushering in many tourism opportunities. Traveling south from Boone County, visitors would have had a chance to visit Dogpatch U.S.A., Paradise Hill with its craft and gift store, the county seat of Jasper, Diamond Cave, Arkansas’ “Grand Canyon,” Lost Valley with its six waterfalls, the Buffalo River and canoe outfitters at Ponca, and the Ozark National Forest. Highway 7 became the state’s first scenic byway in 1993.

Several landslides have damaged the road in recent years. In 2009 an area of highway just south of Jasper collapsed due to heavy rain. A few years later, repair work to fix the earlier damage caused a section of road to collapse again. In 2011 the state proposed changes to enlarge and realign the road and to replace the historic 1931 steel through-truss bridge over the Buffalo near Pruitt. A new bridge is expected to be built, but debate continues regarding the old bridge. While many want it preserved, neither the county nor the National Park Service can afford its maintenance.

Buffalo River
Canoeists at the take-out spot, Buffalo Point, Buffalo River, Newton County, Arkansas, June 25, 1972.

Canoeists at the take-out spot, Buffalo Point, Buffalo River, June 25, 1972. Mary Stockslager, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 6-25-1972)

“Everything you see here, everything except the tops of those bluffs, would have been submerged beneath a reservoir behind one of two dams the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers had planned to build. …Wild rivers, I’m afraid, are a vanishing species.”

Neil Compton
National Geographic, March 1977

“Movin’ out o’ here would mean givin’ up all I’ve got, all I’ve ever had. I hope to stay just as long as the Lord and those Government folks allow.”

Eva “Granny” Barnes Henderson
National Geographic, March 1977

Flowing about 150 wiggly miles east from its headwaters near Boxley towards its confluence with the White River, the Buffalo River has been many things to many people. Native Americans and later settlers used the river for food, water, and transportation. Entrepreneurs harnessed the river’s energy to run mills and float raw materials like cotton, minerals, and red cedar logs (for pencils) to market in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

As early as 1897 the U.S. Corps of Engineers looked at making the river navigable through a series of locks and dams, but the cost was too high. In 1936 a dam was proposed for power generation and flood control but never materialized because of the Great Depression and World War II. The Corps revised their plan in 1954, proposing two dams and the construction of Lone Rock Lake. While supported by many locals and members of the U.S. Congress, legislation to dam the river failed repeatedly.

In the late 1950s, Kenneth L. Smith, a University of Arkansas student, began a personal campaign extolling the beauty of the Buffalo through newspaper and magazine articles. His work helped popularize the notion that the river was worth saving in its natural state. U.S. Senator J. William Fulbright obtained an appropriation to fund a survey of the river by the National Park Service, which later declared that, as one of the last free-flowing rivers in the country, it should be preserved.

Dam proponents and opponents geared up for battle. Governmental agencies such as the Corps and Park Service opposed one another’s plans. Local organizations were formed, including the pro-dam Buffalo River Improvement Association and anti-dam Ozark Society, lead by Dr. Neil Compton of Bentonville. In Newton County some citizens wanted the dams for the progress and jobs they would bring, while many who lived along the river wanted neither dams nor a National River.

After many years of struggle, in 1972 the U.S. Congress officially designated the Buffalo a National River, the first in the nation. But opposition to a National Park continued. Many river-valley residents were upset with Park Service plans because it meant that they would be forced to sell their land to the federal government, leaving the homes and farms their ancestors had worked so hard to build.

In later years, Compton came to believe that pollution was the river’s greatest threat. In 2013 the Arkansas Department of Environmental Quality awarded a permit to build a major hog farm near Mt. Judea. Concerns quickly grew about the potential for damage to the river from accidental runoff of hog waste. After years of protest and litigation, in 2019 the State of Arkansas agreed to a $6.2 million buyout of the company. The land is now protected under a conservation easement.

 

Business
Joe Cowell and family at their cannery, near Deer, Newton County, Arkansas,1900s.

Joe Cowell and family at their cannery, near Deer, 1900s. Bill Bohannon Collection (S-86-250-91)

“No son of mine will ever sit down, fold his hands, and live off the Government. . . . I can’t keep the government from adding taxes and telling me how to run the plant I’ve spent half a lifetime building, but I can teach my sons to get out and hustle for themselves. By golly, the small business is the backbone of America . . .”

I. C. Sutton
Arkansas Gazette, October 16, 1949

Like churches, country stores were the heart of many a community. People collected their mail there and purchased or bartered for goods they couldn’t produce at home. Eggs could be traded for such things as baking powder, sugar, and salt. Store owners also bought animal skins and medicinal plants, selling what they gathered to traveling purchasing agents.

Boxley was named after William Boxley, the merchant who delivered goods to the valley stores and who later operated his own store there. The town of Ponca owes its name to the Ponca City, Oklahoma, Mining Company, which mined lead and zinc ore in the area in the early 1900s. As mining increased in the county, so did blacksmith shops which built and repaired equipment.

In 1929 I. C. Sutton bought a rough turn-handle mill and moved it to Lurton, renaming it the Lurton Furniture Factory. To keep the factory running during the Great Depression, it switched to making barrels and then handles for things like hammers, railroad picks, and axes. World War II bought prosperity to the newly renamed I. C. Sutton Handle Factory, the only war-related business in the county. After the war the business expanded its production to baseball bats, telegraph spade handles, and pike poles used for logging. The business relocated to Harrison in the late 1950s to keep down shipping costs. The move turned Lurton into a ghost town.

The paving of Highway 7 in the 1950s brought some prosperity to the towns along its path. New businesses sprung up. But the highway took away business, too. Some traveled to larger towns in neighboring counties, such as Harrison and Russellville, to conduct their business and do their shopping.

In the 1940s politics was the frequent topic of discussion in Jasper’s two cafés. Pearl’s Café was home to the Democrats while Upton’s Café hosted the Republicans. Today Upton’s is now the Ozark Café, and politics are still discussed.

In 2010 the Jasper Commercial Historic District, including the courthouse, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The simple, rockwork structures were influenced by the availability of the area’s plentiful stone and the town’s relative isolation, free from outside architectural trends. Five of the buildings were built by Gould Jones, a local blacksmith and builder. He constructed a small reservoir in town in the early 1940s to provide water to a tomato-canning factory. The factory was closed by the Arkansas Department of Health when tomato juice was found in local wells.

 

Commercial Hotel, Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s-1920s.

Commercial Hotel, Jasper, 1910s-1920s. A 1922 ad noted that the hotel offered, “electric lights, clean rooms, good meals, [and] special attention to tourists and [the] traveling public.” Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-67)

Camp Orr
Boy Scouts at Camp Orr, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,July 1967.

Boy Scouts at Camp Orr, near Jasper, July 1967. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-1967)

“We seek to create a camp where a boy will have opportunity for instruction and practice in woodcraft skills. We seek to develop physical fitness and resourcefulness to adapt himself to his surroundings and to live out of doors.”

L. M. R. Rogers
Scout Executive, Westark Area Council
Ozarks Mountaineer, September 1955

“Being on staff [in the mid 1960s] was kind of a dream for a teenage boy.  We’d work for four or five hours, then spend the rest of the day in this wilderness playground.”

Jack Butt
Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, May 25, 2003

Camp Orr was developed in the early 1950s by the Westark Area Council of the Boy Scouts of America, based out of Fort Smith. Located a few miles northwest of Jasper, along the banks of the Buffalo River, the camp is named after Raymond F. Orr, a Fort Smith industrialist and former Council president who was instrumental in the camp’s development.

When it came time to find a camp site, Orr and a few other men are said to have paddled the Buffalo in search of the perfect spot. Orr purchased parcels of land from local landowners and then sold hundreds of acres to the Council for $15,000.

The first organized camp activities were held in the summer of 1955. Early structures included a trading post, a dining hall housed in a large Army tent, and a 34,000-gallon concrete water reservoir. Today the camp hosts a few thousand campers each summer, making it Newton County’s second largest “town” after Jasper. Troops come from Arkansas and across the country to gain skill in such things as knot tying, fire building, and woodworking.

The camp’s natural resources are plentiful—a river for canoeing, forests for camping and backpacking, rocks for climbing and rappelling, and flora and fauna for studying. The camp even has its own haunting legend, that of Smokey Joe, a former scoutmaster who is said to have lost his sanity after being hit in the head with a rock.

When the Buffalo National River Wilderness Area was established in 1972, the camp found itself within the area’s boundaries, the only Boy Scout camp in America in a national park. At first there was concern over whether or not the camp could remain. Negotiations went on for five years. In the end it was decided that as long as the camp followed National Park Service guidelines, like keeping the road into the property unpaved, it could stay. In 2003 the camp celebrated its 50th anniversary in true camp fashion, with food, fun, and stories around the campfire.

Diamond Cave
“Piano” formation, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,early 1920s.

“Piano” formation, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, 1921-1925. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-12)

“There is a thrilling slide down Lover’s Leap to a point in the cave where visitors may behold the Pipe Organ . . . The calcite stems, or pipes of the organ, are so tense and delicate that the scale of music can be run by deftly tapping the rigid rock, and the cave is thus made to ring with melody.”

Playgrounds in Arkansas
1920s

Newton County is known for having a significant number of caves: Beauty Cave, Bat Cave, Civil War Cave, Beckham Creek Cave, and Hurricane River Cave. Perhaps the best known is Diamond Cave, located near Jasper. Likely named for the sparkling beauty seen as light glistens off of the cave’s dripping water and many-colored formations, the cavern is thought to have at least 20 miles of passageways.

The cave is said to have been discovered in 1834 by Sam and Andy Hudson, Tennessee migrants who homesteaded nearby. As the story goes, they were out hunting when their dogs disappeared into a hole in a hillside. Venturing into the cave with burning pine knots for torches, they found dogs and bears fighting. After killing the bears the men explored the cave for about three miles and saw its many wonders.

Early visitors explored with the aid of torches. They were guided by the son of one of the discoverers, who charged $2 for a group’s daylong tour. In 1922 W. J. “Jonah” Pruitt bought the cave and made improvements to it and the land. Three years later he sold the property to the Diamond Cave Corporation, maintaining a majority share of the stock. Walkways were created and protective handrails put in place. At first the cave’s electric light came from a gasoline-powered generator. Only one tour group could visit the cave at a time, as there wasn’t enough power to light multiple rooms simultaneously.

The trail through the cave was about two miles long. Fanciful names were given to various passages and formations—Crystal Lane, the Sugar Room, the Auditorium of Rome, the Statue of Liberty, and Fat Man’s Agony (a tight passageway). Baloney Pool owes it name to a tourist who didn’t believe the guide’s word that the water in a pool was deeper than it looked. Crying “Baloney!” he stepped into the pool only to realize the guide spoke the truth.

At various times the park had campgrounds and a bath house, rental cabins, a museum, and the Panther Inn, which sold refreshments and offered a hall for dances and parties. The rollerskating rink, built in 1939, was a popular place for local youngsters, who would often catch a ride to the rink on logging trucks from nearby communities like Deer, Ponca, and Low Gap. At its peak the cave had 10,000 visitors annually. On busy weekends the guides were given hamburgers as they left the cave with one tour group and immediately entered with another, eating on the go.

The cave closed to the public in 1988. In 1995 it was sold to the Mas Suerte Corporation of Texas. At the time the company indicated that it wanted to preserve and protect the cave and the surrounding property. Plans included restoration of native plants and trees and a wildlife refuge. The cave is closed at present.

Dogpatch
Statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone, Dogpatch U.S.A., Marble Falls, Newton County, Arkansas, June 1968.

Statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone, Dogpatch U.S.A., Marble Falls, June 1968. The fictitious Cornpone was an incompetent Confederate general and founder of Dogpatch. Bob Edmiston, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 6-1968 #1)

“Dogpatch is really something else. People in the East think all the creativity and action is on the coasts, but the Midwest comes up with some fantastic ideas—like Dogpatch. It is a fine thing for Arkansas and it doesn’t hurt me either.”

Al Capp
Baxter (AR) Bulletin, May 16, 1968

Al Capp, creator of the “Li’l Abner” comic strip, was approached by a group of Boone County investors for permission to recreate his imaginary town of Dogpatch in the wilds of Arkansas. In 1966 they purchased a 160-acre trout farm near the town of Marble Falls, north of Jasper.

The first phase of Dogpatch cost over $1.3 million. Opened to the public in May 1968, the park featured buggy rides, a miniature railroad known as the “West Po’k Chop Speshul,” a trout farm, Ozark arts and crafts, a honey shop and apiary for bees, 1800s-era log cabins, and various hillbilly characters. Over 300,000 people visited the first year. Adults were charged $1.50, children 75 cents.

Soon there was a change in leadership; businessman Jess Odom gained controlling interest. New rides were added and a campsite developed. A few years later Odom broke ground on the Marble Falls resort, next to Dogpatch. The resort included a convention center, an indoor ice-skating rink, and—surprisingly—ski runs kept white with machine-made snow. Financial problems and mild winters led to the resort’s closure in 1977, the same year Capp retired his comic strip.

An economic feasibility study of the park in the late 1960s suggested that, by its tenth year of operation, the park would see over one million visitors a year. At best it attracted 200,000 annually. Competition with the nearby Silver Dollar City theme park in Branson, Missouri, didn’t help. Times were changing. In 1980 fiscal debt, changes in leadership, a decrease in tourism, and two money-losing summers forced the owners to file for bankruptcy.

Even as it struggled, the park stayed open. It added new attractions and featured country music stars like Reba McEntire. Owners came and went. In an effort to rebrand itself, in 1991 “Li’l Abner” and the other cartoon characters were replaced with a generic Ozarks theme. Dogpatch closed October 1993. A year later the Carr brothers of Boone County bought the property but didn’t do anything with it. Over the years vandals and souvenir hunters took their toll on the former park. The statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone was taken to Branson and may still be there on the bed of a trailer.

In 2005 a father and his teenage son were riding their four-wheelers on the property when the son ran into a steel cable strung across the road and was hit in the neck. There were questions about whether the property’s caretaker, another Carr brother, knew about trespassers and deliberately put up the cable as a deterrent. In 2011 the Arkansas Supreme Court upheld an earlier jury’s verdict to award money to the injured family. As the Carrs didn’t pay the judgment, the Dogpatch property was transferred to the family and their lawyer. Since then, the land has been in limbo. The current owner is anxious to sell.

Elk
Elk, Boxley Valley, Newton County, Arkansas,January 24, 1993.

Elk, Boxley Valley, January 24, 1993. Jill Smith, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 1-24-1993)

“They’re mean, wild and stout. . . . A lot of people here would never get a chance to see them if we hadn’t brought them in. I’m just tickled to death with the way they’re doing and with having them here.”

Robert Harrison
Arkansas Gazette, February 11, 1985

Elk once roamed North Arkansas, as evidenced by name of the old Elkhorn Tavern in Benton County, which displayed a pair of elk antlers on its roof. But overhunting in the late 1800s and loss of habitat as prairies were transformed into farmland first reduced, then wiped out, the once-large population.

A century later, hunters petitioned the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission to reestablish the elk. When Hilary Jones joined the Commission in 1980 and saw Oklahoma’s successful elk reintroduction, he figured it could work in Arkansas. The Buffalo National River valley near his home in Pruitt seemed ideal.

In 1981 local volunteers brought the first seven elk from Colorado, where the animal was plentiful. The elk were transported in cattle trailers lined with sheets of plywood in order to reduce stress and minimize injuries. More elk were relocated over the next four years. Soon calves were being born. Today the population stands around 450.

The elk are quite a draw. Tourists often line Highway 43 in Boxley Valley to watch for elk, especially in October during the animals’ mating season. They also visit the new Elk Education Center in Ponca. Each year thousands vie for one of a few dozen permits for two five-day hunting seasons.

But not everyone is happy. Some locals have complained about the growing herd and their impact on cattle-grazing land and the region’s plants. There are also concerns about the danger to roadside tourists. A few worry that Boxley Valley is becoming a kind of zoo.

In 2012 several water, wildlife, and conservation agencies and groups sought to halt the U.S. Forest Service’s expansion of elk habitat into Bearcat Hollow, just east of the Newton County line. They claimed that the clear cutting, road building, and herbicide use needed to thin and manage the forest would be excessive and would endanger lands protected by the Arkansas Wilderness Act of 1984.

Mining
Kilgore Mine, Ponca, Newton County, Arkansas, 1916

Kilgore Mine, Ponca, 1916. From left: Hope Strong, Lick Greenhaw, Lynn Jones, Hobert Criner, Frank Cheatham, unidentified, and Carol Greenhaw. Willie Bohannan Collection (S-83-82-56)

“Usually only about four men could work in a small tunnel [at the Panther Creek Mine].  One man was engaged in wheeling out the waste and collecting the ore worth saving. . . . From the ‘diggings’ a . . . track capable of supporting a small hand gondola car extended some 300 yards to the ore mill.  At the end of the track the mined ore, a combination of dirt, rock, and ore, was dumped in the grill screen grates where it was broken . . . [and] fed to the crusher.”

Walter F. Lackey (1960)
Newton County Times, August 25, 1983

In the late 1850s, lead ore was mined and processed near the mouth of Cave Creek and at the headwaters of the Buffalo River near Ponca and Boxley. Over 18,000 pounds or more of ore was extracted, mainly for making lead bullets for rifles. The process was crude. Ore was dug out by hand from open cuts or shallow shafts. A crude smelter (furnace) made of stone was used to separate the metal from the rock. With the advent of the Civil War came the need for even more lead. The Cave Creek operation was worked by Confederate forces.

Lack of easy transportation limited the growth of mining. In the early days, raw ore and processed minerals were hauled by wagon over rugged terrain and then shipped down the Buffalo River. When railroads came to neighboring counties by the turn of the 20th century, materials were transported by wagon north to Harrison or west to St. Paul for shipment by rail.

By the end of the 19th century zinc mining had surpassed lead mining in importance. Zinc was used as a paint pigment, for battery electrodes, and to galvanize (coat) iron to protect it from corrosion. A 5,200-pound sample of nearly pure zinc from the Panther Creek Mine near Diamond Cave was said to have been sent for display to the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, winning first honors in its class.

The need for zinc further increased by 1915, as World War I was underway in Europe. During this time the Panther Creek Mine produced about 3,000 tons of zinc concentrates. Prices began to decrease in 1917 due to a glut of minerals on the market, the high production costs of refining the ore, the area’s poor transportation options, and the loss of an able labor force as young men were recruited to fight. After the war, North Arkansas mines and their adjacent boomtowns were often abandoned.

Lead and zinc mining occurred off and on over the years, mostly small shovel-and-pick operations. In the 1940s miners were back at the old Confederate mine near Cave Creek, extracting large quantities of zinc and lead ore.

While lead and zinc were the primary materials mined or quarried in Newton County, there are also significant deposits of limestone, sand and gravel, and sandstone, as well as some coal and iron. Between 1895 and 1936 1,500 tons of coal were extracted from two mines in the northeastern corner of the county. Perhaps the first recorded instance of quarrying involved a 45-ton limestone block quarried in 1836 near Marble Falls for the Washington Monument in Washington D.C. A century later, a limestone quarry southeast of Jasper produced an estimated 50,000 tons of crushed rock during the construction of Highway 7.

Newton County Academy
Members of the Herculean Society, Newton County Academy, Parthenon, Newton County, Arkansas, mid 1920s.

Members of the Herculean Society, Newton County Academy, Parthenon, mid 1920s. Formed in 1920 as a literary society, the Herculeans gave programs and performances and participated in debates. Elmer Casey Collection (S-83-115-14)

“We admit we were freshmen, Much greener than the grass, But now we’re glad to say, We’re the sophomore class.”

Thomas Ryker
Newtonian, 1922

During the 19th and early 20th centuries, one-room schools dotted the countryside, serving to educate students in communities and towns. Schools operated for only a few months each year, when the children weren’t needed for farm work. But there wasn’t an avenue for higher learning until October 1920, when the Newton County Academy opened with 144 students. It was part of the Southern Baptist mountain mission school program, dedicated to bringing education and civilizing influences to rural areas. Describing Newton County as “the most destitute field in Arkansas,” the Baptists worked with community leaders to establish the school.

Donations in the form of cash, trees, and sawn lumber were used to build a two-story, native rock building. A girls’ dormitory was built to house out-of-town students as the Academy was, for a time, the only high school in the county. A rockwork gymnasium was built in 1936 as part of the Works Progress Administration program. The stage was paid for in part by area businesses in exchange for advertisements on the curtain.

The school offered coursework in music, mathematics, business, Latin, and the social sciences. Student societies focused on literature and religion. Tuition was staggered, depending on the grade the child attended. Seniors paid $4.50 per month, or $36 for the entire session.

Keeping the school going financially was a struggle. Money was still owed for the main building, so some of the school’s land was sold to help pay the debt. Many individuals and groups stepped up to help. Womens’ Missionary Unions in Arkansas and Texas helped fund tuition fees. The women of the Second Baptist Church in Little Rock assisted with dormitory furnishings and clothing. Baylor University in Texas, which directed the Baptist Mountain School program, provided equipment and maintenance.

The state took over the Academy in 1930, switching it to a public school. School consolidation in the 1940s and 1950s forced many of the local schools to close, moving students to larger, more centralized schools. At the Academy, students were transferred to the Jasper Public School district. The last high school class graduated in Parthenon in 1948; the last year of grade school was 1954.

Over the years the dormitory burned to the ground, the school building was dismantled for its rocks, and the gymnasium lost its roof. In the mid 1990s, Beulah Shelton began a campaign to save the gym. Through the donation of labor and money, including state capital improvement funds, the structure was rebuilt and rededicated October 2005. Today it’s used for community functions. The Academy was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986.

Pastimes
James Braswell (far left) with members of the Jasper and Parthenon bands playing at a spring picnic, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,about 1910.

James Braswell (far left) with members of the Jasper and Parthenon bands playing at a spring picnic, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, about 1910. Ardella Braswell Vaughan Collection (S-89-81-15)

“ . . . by this time Highway 7 had been upgraded considerably and people came from miles around to shake their shaves, get boozed up, and let their hair down.”

Henry Sutton
Mid-American Folklore, 2000

James T. Braswell was born in Carroll County, but lived in Jasper for about 25 years. A carpenter by trade, he also made furniture and musical instruments such as mandolins and violins. On Saturday afternoons in the summer, he led Jasper’s town band from the bandstand next to the courthouse. Braswell was also a songwriter, penning “In the Land of a Million Smiles” in 1925. The song was written on behalf of the Ozark Playgrounds Association, which used it for many years to boost its tourism efforts in the Arkansas and Missouri Ozarks.

Community picnics were a frequent summer event in the early 1900s. Some picnics were quite elaborate with concession rights sold to the highest bidder. The day before the picnic, underbrush was cleared and booths set up for lemonade, ice cream, fruit, hot dogs, souvenirs, and the like. A horse- or mule-powered wooden “swing” gave round-and-round rides for a nickel. “Happy Jack” Moore of Swain was one of the best-known swing operators. He drew customers in with his singing, dancing, and snappy patter.

In Lurton, the picnic lasted for three days, drawing up to 1,000 people. Folks had a chance to catch a greased pig, dance to live music, or look for coins in a giant pile of sawdust. They could also pay for a ride in an airplane. In the 1930s, Lurton was the scene of some rowdy Saturday-night dances, courtesy of the local loggers and the workers from the Civilian Conservation Corps. As the nickelodeon played Western Swing music, couples courted and moonshine flowed.

Shooting matches were popular. In the early 1900s men and boys in the Low Gap community would lie on the ground with their muzzleloaders propped up on a log and take aim at paper targets tacked onto clapboards. Their rifles had names such as “Old Bangum,” “Yellow Jacket,” and “Old Countabore.” Contestants were given seven shots throughout the day, with the winners being declared after much scrutiny of the shot-up targets. Prior to the event, the contestants chipped in to purchase a steer for about $12. During the match, the animal was slaughtered. The winners received certain cuts of beef, depending on their ranking, with some selling their winnings to others.

In Low Gap, Isaac and Cynthia Wishon where known for their keen enjoyment of visiting with friends and neighbors. Cynthia was a good cook. The noon meal might include dried smoked beef and venison, sauerkraut, apple and pumpkin pies, fried chicken, potatoes, and turnip greens, all washed down with coffee, milk, and spicewood or sassafras tea. While the women gathered to quilt, knit, and share neighborhood news, the men played card games (“pitch” and “seven up”) and pitched horseshoes. Often folks tuned up their instruments to play songs such as “Buffalo Gals” and “Arkansas Traveler.”

Ted Richmond and the Wilderness Library
Ted Richmond (right) at the Wilderness Library, Mount Sherman, Newton County, Arkansas,1940s-1950s.

Ted Richmond (right) at the Wilderness Library, Mount Sherman, 1940s-1950s. Flossie Smith Collection (S-98-88-525)

“I literally started with a Bible and a prayer. It has not been easy, but I have had the most remarkable answers to prayers. One summer when the drought burned up the gardens, I used nearly all my slender grocery money for the library, and lived on wild roots, wild onions, berries, and the like. But the books kept coming, and that was what I wanted.”

Ted Richmond
Christian Science Monitor, April 5, 1947

Born in Nebraska, James Theodore “Ted” Richmond lived in many places and had several jobs. But he grew tired of living in a fast-paced world, isolated from his neighbors. Eventually he found his way to Mount Sherman, a few miles northwest of Jasper.

With the help of his neighbors, in 1930 or 1931 Richmond cleared some land, built a small log cabin, and started a goat herd. His aim was to establish the Wilderness Library, a place where his neighbors could have access to the knowledge of the world. At first the only book he had to lend was the Bible. But he wrote to friends and publishers and soon books and magazines began arriving.

As word of the library spread, folks made the trek to pay a visit and borrow a book. For those who couldn’t make it, Richmond hauled 60-70 pounds worth of books in a canvas sack along rugged mountain roads and trails. He visited neighbors, sharing books, preaching and praying, and gathering news to bring to the next family on his route. Seeing a need, he began the “Wilderness White Christmas,” gathering and delivering small toys, clothing, medicine, shoes, and other necessities to his neighbors.

The Wilderness Library grew. Shelves of books were placed in schools and churches. A few branch libraries were established, including the Raney Branch further up the mountain from Richmond’s place. In the early 1950s it held about 1,500 volumes, including The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and the Boy Scout Handbook. Light was provided by oil lamps. Borrowers recorded their loans in a notebook. If someone wanted to contact Richmond, he or she could holler for him using an old phonograph horn, hoping that the wind was blowing in the right direction for him to hear.

Richmond knew the value of a good story. He wrote articles about the library, which he sent to newspaper and magazine editors, and went on publicity tours. A few major publications sent reporters to interview him. A 1952 article in the Saturday Evening Post positively delighted in the tale of a backwoods hermit tending to the literary needs of his hillbilly neighbors. The locals weren’t pleased, going so far as to create the Newton County Betterment Group to fight this unfair portrayal.

Years of rough living and poor diet may have taken their toll, along with the arrival of a regional library system in 1944. In 1953, Richmond married longtime friend Edna Gardner of Texarkana, Texas, whom he had met through the Ozark Artists and Writers Guild. Not long after that, Ted Richmond left his cabin and library and moved to Texarkana. He died there in 1975.

Tourism
Pearl Wilhemina McGowan Holland with a stringer of goggle-eyed perch, largemouth bass, and catfish, by the store at Shady Grove Campground, Pruitt, Newton County, Arkansas,1930s.

Pearl Wilhemina McGowan Holland with a stringer of goggle-eyed perch, largemouth bass, and catfish, by the store at Shady Grove Campground, Pruitt, 1930s. Richard and Melba Holland Collection (S-98-2-340)

“I love it here. . . . You are so close to God you can just see it all around you. The birds sing all the time . . . and you should hear the whippoorwill at night. It’s the most peaceful place in the world.”

Pearl Holland
Tulsa World, June 20, 1965

Today, much of Newton County’s businesses are tourism related. Whether folks are camping in the Ozark-St. Francis National Forests or floating the Buffalo River or riding their motorcycles down scenic Highway 7, tourism dollars are important to the county’s economy.

The area’s rivers, especially the Buffalo, have always drawn anglers. For decades, visitors often stopped at the Shady Grove Campground at Pruitt to fish or swim the Buffalo. The camp was established in 1920 by F. A. Hammons. It offered a bathhouse, bathing suit and towel rentals, campsites, a dance hall, and a well-maintained river sandbar. When the new bridge was built in 1931, Hammons built a few rental cabins on the old bridge. Famous artist Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri was a campground regular. A sign at the camp read, “No hard drinks, shouting or unlawful acts allowed.”

For many years Hammons’ step-daughter Pearl McGowan Holland was the camp’s manager. Pearl’s son, Richard, grew up on the river—swimming, fishing, hunting, and exploring caves. At age 16 he quit school to become a fishing guide for tourists for a time. In 1973 the Holland family made a heartbreaking decision. They sold their land along the Buffalo to the National Park Service. They greatly missed the river and the opportunities the campground gave them to meet new people and visit with old friends.

In Boxley Valley in the late 1930s, Clyde Villines and others worked to clear many years of silt and vegetation out of the millpond which fed his grist and flouring mill. He stocked the revitalized pond with fish and built five small cabins to rent to weekend anglers from Harrison and other nearby towns.

Ponca is the headquarters for folks wanting to float a popular stretch of the Buffalo. On spring and summer weekends the river is lined with canoes and paddlers, many transported to the river by either the Lost Valley Canoe Service or the Buffalo Outdoor Center, the area’s two major outfitters. Locals sometimes see it as an “aluminum stream,” both for the canoes and beer cans that float on by.

In 2004 Randal and Debbie Phillips purchased a few of the buildings at the old Marble Falls ski resort next to Dogpatch, and began transforming them into a motorcycle resort complete with motel and restaurant, convention center, campground, and motorcycle-related shops. The Phillips hope to make Newton County the biker capital of Arkansas.

Whiskey Making
Men with sacks of corn at the Bat House Cave distillery, Wells Creek, near Hasty, Newton County, Arkansas,1900s-1910s.

Men with sacks of corn at the Bat House Cave distillery, Wells Creek, near Hasty, 1900s-1910s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-94)

“Several men were lounging around each still, but it was noticeable that none of them were drunk or even drinking. . . . [T]hey probably considered that they were at work, and a man cannot very well get drunk and work at the same time.”

Wayman Hogue
Back Yonder, 1932

For much of the 1800s, making alcohol didn’t require legal permits or taxes. Just the proper equipment, a few sacks of dried corn, and a good supply of water. Aside from the pleasures of home brew, distilling whiskey was a good way to use surplus corn and make some cash.

One of Newton County’s first stills was run by Alfred Carlton at a spring on his father’s homestead near Parthenon. At Henson Creek, John Dale put his still under a rock shelter. For 35 cents a customer could get a large gourd-full of “mountain dew.” Squirrel hunter Tom Reynolds stopped to visit with Dale one day, only to have the stopper from his powder horn pop out as he bent to light his pipe from a cooking fire. After the ignited gunpowder produced a loud bang, Reynolds said, “That White Mule sho do have some kick.”

In 1897 the U.S. government passed the Bottled-in-Bond Act, in part to guarantee that spirits were unadulterated (not diluted or impure). Only legal, government-bonded distilleries were allowed to manufacture and sell alcohol. Revenue stamps were affixed to barrels and bottles to show that the proper taxes had been paid. The taxation caused many distillers to hide their operations from the revenue agents, leading to the rise of moonshining. However, there were two legal distilleries in Newton County. One was Bill McDougal’s distillery near the Big Hurricane Creek.

Over at Bat House Cave at the head of Wells Creek, between Hasty and Yardelle, owners Charles Bethany and Newton Sanders operated their distillery within a natural rock shelter that had a good spring. One way to make whiskey was to soak corn kernels in water for a couple of days and let them sprout. The corn was crushed into bits or “chops” and placed in a wood barrel along with coarse-ground cornmeal to create a mash. After a few days of fermentation the starch in the corn was converted into sugar. The mash was placed in an enclosed metal cooker and heated. The rising steam was trapped in a coiled copper tube or “worm” which was cooled by water. What dripped out as liquid was further cooked and condensed to make whiskey.

The distiller at Bat House was Tom Raney. After fermentation the mash was dumped into a wood trough as hog feed, leading to a few tipsy pigs. Gaugers George Ray and Newt Jones weighed the whisky and placed government stamps on the barrels, proof that the distillery had paid its taxes. The distillery was allowed to make 12 gallons a day.

The distilleries closed in 1917, when Arkansas’ “bone dry” liquor law went into effect, which prohibited the “transportation, delivery, and storage of liquor.” The night Bat House closed, the liquor barrels were stolen from the warehouse. Moonshining continued as national prohibition went into effect in 1920.

Credits

Allen, Eric. “Confederate Powder Cavern Still Looms Above Buffalo.” Southwest Times Record, 11-27-1966.

Arden, Harvey. “America’s Little Mainstream.” National Geographic, Vol. 151, No. 3 (March 1977).

“Arkansas Elk Herd is on the Grow.” Unidentified and undated news clipping (1986). Shiloh Museum research files.

Arkansas Game and Fish Commission. “Ponca Elk Education Center.” (accessed 11/2013)

Arkansas Gazette. “Ore in Newton County Spurs Mine Activity.” 12-8-1940.

Arkansas Historic Preservation Program. “Gould Jones Reservoir, Jasper, Newton County.” (accessed 12/2013)

Arkansas Historic Preservation Program. “Jasper Commercial Historic District, Jasper, Newton County.” (accessed 12/2013)

Bethune, Ed. “What price elk? Stop the Bearcat Hollow Project. ” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-11-2012.

Blevins, Brooks. “Mountain Mission Schools in Arkansas.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LXX, No. 4 (Winter 2011).

Blevins, Brooks. Hill Folks: A History of Arkansas Ozarkers and Their Image. University of North Carolina Press: Chapel Hill, 2002.

“Bone Dry” Liquor Law of 1917. FranaWiki. (accessed 11/2013)

Bowden, Bill. “5 environmental groups unite to halt elk habitat expansion.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-30-2012.

Bowden, Bill. “Arkansas bridge falling victim to age, upkeep costs.Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 12-15-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Bowden, Bill. “Dogpatch dream dies: Owner of abandoned Arkansas theme park served foreclosure notice.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 12-8-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Bowden, Bill. “National park working to broaden its diversity.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 6-18-2012.

Branham, Chris. “Section of Arkansas 7 collapses near Jasper.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-15-2012.

Braswell, James. “In the Land of a Million Smiles.” Stephen A. Douglas Music Normal Association: Aldrich, MO, 1925.

Buffalo National River, National Park Service. “Whiteley Mill, April 1864.” (accessed 11/2013)

Carroll County Tribune. “Carroll Electric Will Mark Golden Anniversary.” 11-4-1987.

Carroll Electric Cooperative Corporation. “Burdine honored by Electric Cooperatives.”  3-2-2010.  (accessed 12/2013; no longer available 3/2020)

Cessna, Ralph. “Library in the Wilderness.” Christian Science Monitor, 4-5-1947.

Charles, Steve. “Ozark Byways.” Ozark Highways, Spring/Summer 1972.

Chestnut. E. F. “Rural Electrification in Arkansas, 1935-1940: The Formative Years.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XLVI, No. 3 [Autumn 1987].

Christenson, Jeff. “Camp Orr: Summertime Tradition for Scouts.” Harrison Daily Times, 7-28-1988.

Clayton, Joe. “Ted Richmond’s ‘Wilderness Library.'”  unidentified and undated news clipping (1950s). Shiloh Museum research files.

Compton, Neil. The Battle for the Buffalo River: A Twentieth-Century Conservation Crisis in the Ozarks. University of Arkansas Press: Fayetteville, 1992.

Craft, Dan. “Boy Scout Camp Turns 50.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 5-25-2003.

Craft, Dan. “Camp Orr Celebrates 50 Years.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 6-20-2003.

Croley, Victor A. “The Battle of Whiteley’s Mill Was Small.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 21, No. 5 (June 1973).

Deane, Ernie. “Multi-Purpose Forests.” Springdale News, 2-25-1981.

Dezort, Jeff. “Camp Orr’s 50th anniversary celebrated.” Newton County Times, 6-26-2003.

Dezort, Jeff. “No. 45: A scenic byway since 1993.” Newton County Times, 4-22-2010.

Dodson, Donna. “Christmas party brought down early courthouse.” Donna Dodson, Newton County Times, 3-18-2010.

Dogpatch U.S.A.” AbandonedOK.  (accessed 11/2013)

Dogpatch U.S.A.” Arkansas Roadside Travelogue, 4-2-2001.

Edmisten, Bob. “Dogpatch, USA, Growing.” Springdale News, 6-11-1969.

Edson, Arthur. “America the Beautiful: The Ozarks.”  Tulsa World, 6-20-1965

Electric Cooperatives of Arkansas. “Our History” [rural electrification]. (accessed 12/2013)

Faris, Ann. “I Didn’t Raise My Family To Live Off Of The Government” [Sutton Handle Factory]. Arkansas Gazette, 10-16-1949.

Faris, Paul. “Ted Richmond.” Ozark Log Cabin Folks. Rose Publishing Co.: Little Rock, 1983.

Field Report: Skirmish at Whiteley’s Mill.” Major James A. Melton, Second Arkansas Union Cavalry, 4-10-1864, Newton County, Arkansas and the Civil War, Ancestry.com.  (accessed 11/2013)

Greenhaw, Clyde. “Exploring a Cave in 1834.” Arkansas Gazette, 2-9-1941.

Haight, Christine. “Sutton Handle Factory: The Beginnings.” Newton County Times, 9-25-1997.

Hanley, Ray and Diane, with the Newton County Historical Society. Images of America: Newton County. Arcadia Publishing: Charleston, SC, 2012.

Hardaway, Billie Touchstone. These Hills, My Home: A Buffalo River Story. Western Printing Co.: Republic, MO, 1980.

Henderson, Shannon. “The Battle of Limestone Valley.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 13, No. 10 (November 1965).

Hogue, Wayman. Back Yonder: An Ozark Chronicle. Minton, Balch and Co.: New York, 1932.

Holland, Richard A. “Ellis & Pearl (McGowan) Holland.” Newton County Family History, Newton County Historical Society: Jasper, 1992.

Holland, Richard A. “Richard Holland.” Newton County Family History. Newton County Historical Society: Jasper, 1992.

Jansma, Harriet. “The Book Man and the Library: A Chapter in Arkansas Library History.” Arkansas Libraries, Vol. 39 (December 1982).

Johnson, Russell T. “Dogpatch USA.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 11/2013)

Jones, Melissa L. “Patching up Dogpatch.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 2-19-2007.

Lackey, Daniel Boone. “Cutting and Floating Red Cedar Logs in North Arkansas.”  Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XIX, No. 4 (Winter 1960).

Lackey, Walter F. “Historical Notes” [lead mining]. Newton County Times, 8-11-1983.

Lackey, Walter F. History of Newton County, Arkansas. S of O Press: Point Lookout, MO, 1950.

Lair, Dwain. “Parthenon Gym Gets New Life From Arkansas.” Harrison Daily Times, undated [1999].

Leith, Sam A. “Diamond Cave—Jasper’s Ace Attraction.” Ozarks Mountaineer, February 1957.

“Logan, Coy. “This I Remember, As It Was Told To Me.” Carroll County Historical Society, Vol. 2, No. 3 (June 1957).

Martin, Meredith. “Three Big Days, Three Big Nights, and One Petrified Indian Baby: Stories from Lurton, Arkansas.” Mid America Folklore, Vol. 28, No. 1-2 (2000).

Mays, Armon. “The Buffalo As A River Of Commerce.”  Marshall (AR) Mountain Wave, 1-28-1985.

McCamant, Richard E., and Dwight Pitcaithley. “National Park Service Protects Buffalo River.” Harrison Daily Times, 7-4-1986.

McGeeney, Ryan. “JPs get earful of yeas, nays on hog farm.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 3-6-2013.

McKnight, Edwin T. Zinc and Lead Deposits of Northern Arkansas. U.S. Department of the Interior, Geological Survey, U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington D.C., 1935.

Mosby, Joe. “Before the Buffalo Became ‘Aluminum Conveyor Belt.’” Arkansas Gazette, 6-17-1984.

Neal, Joseph C. Mining the Mountains: Pettigrew and Ponca in the Era of Zinc. Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, early 1980s.

Newton County Action Team. Pathways through Newton County, late 1990s.

Newton County Historical Society. “Diamond Cave: A lost Newton County gem.” Newton County Times, 7-21-2010.

Newton County Times. “A Century After Being Pushed West Elk Are Coming Home.” Mid 1980s.

Newton County Times. “Chamber of Commerce holds history of Newton County.” 6-23-2005.

Newton County Times. “Early Stories in the Newton County Times” [REA high-power line]. 12-12-2012.

Newton County Times. “Historic courthouse at center of festival.”  6-26-2003.

Newton County Times. “Historical Notes” [Highway 7].  6-1-1989.

Newton County Times. “History of Parthenon Academy revisited.”  9-29-2005.

Newton County Times. “Parthenon Preparing to Restore Old Gym.” 2-17-2000.

Newton County Times. “Sale of Diamond Cave to Texas Corporation Announced.” 9-4-1995.

Newton County Times. “Sawmilling, Logging Help Phillips Stay on Farm.” 5-31-1984.

Newtonian. Newton County Academy: Parthenon, 1922.

Ozarks Mountaineer. “Arkansas’ New Parkway—Highway 7 a Scenic Wonder.” Vol. 5, No. 4 (February 1957).

Perkins, J. Blake. “The Arkansas Tick Eradication Murder: Rethinking Yeoman Resistance in the ‘Marginal’ South.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LXX, No. 4 (Winter 2011).

Phelps, John E. “Skirmish in Limestone Valley, part 1 and part 2.” The War of the Rebellion: A Compilation of the Official Records of the Union and Confederate Armies, Vol. XXXIV, eHistory, OSU Department of History  (accessed 11/2013)

Pierce, Arthur. “Historical Notes” [Newton County Academy]. Newton County Times, 9-1-1988.

Pitcaithly, Dwight. “Zinc and Lead Mining Along the Buffalo River.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XXXVII, No. 4 (Winter 1978).

Playgrounds in Arkansas. “Diamond Cave, Newton County.”  Ozark Playgrounds Association: Joplin, undated [1920s].

Pruitt, Lisa R. “Law and Order in the Ozarks (Part LXXXV): Dogpatch lawsuit finalized.” (accessed 11/2013)

Putthoff, Flip. “Buffalo would be different today without Compton.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 11-8-1999.

Rodman, Mike. “Residents crusade to erase Dogpatch U.S.A.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 2-5-1994.

Rogers, L. M. R. “Orr Scout Camp—Wilderness Paradise in Arkansas.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 4, No. 2, (September 1955).

Rural Arkansas. Untitled article about Kathryn Wheeler [rural electrification]. May 1984.

S. 2125 (98th): Arkansas Wilderness Act of 1984.”  (accessed 11/2013)

Shiloh Museum of Ozark History. “Serving Our Clients: Rural Relief in 1930s Newton County.”

Sims, Scarlett. “State seeks to improve Arkansas 7.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 5-31-2011.

Smith, David A. Lead-Zinc Mineralization in the Ponca-Boxley Area, Arkansas. University of Arkansas-Fayetteville, 1978.

Smith, George S. “Capp to Open Dogpatch.” Baxter (Mountain Home, AR) Bulletin, 5-16-1968.

Smith, Kenneth L. “Highest Cliff in All Arkansas.” Arkansas Democrat, 12-6-1959.

Smith, Kenneth L. “The Seven Kettles—Actually There Were Eight—And the Confederates Put Them to Good Use.” Arkansas Gazette, 11-20-1959.

Spence, Hartzell. “Modern Shepherd of the Hills.” Saturday Evening Post, 11-8-1952.

Stewart-Abernathy, Leslie. “Cherokee.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas (accessed 3/2020).

Stroud, Raymond B., et al. Mineral Resources and Industries of Arkansas. U.S. Department of the Interior, Bureau of Mines, U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington D.C., 1969.

Suter, Mary. “Rural Electrification.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 12/2013)

Teter, Rhonda. “Newton County Academy.” Newton County Times, 9-7-2011.

Treiber, Peggy. Newton County slide show, produced on behalf of the Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, 6/2/1989.

“Tumbling Tumbleweeds” thread [re Jubilation T. Cornpone statue].  (accessed 11/2013; no longer available 3/2020)

“Twilight Trail an Eerie Place,” unidentified and undated news clipping (1950s). Shiloh Museum research files.

Walkenhorst, Emily. “C and H Hog Farms takes state buyout; $6.2M deal cut to preserve Buffalo River.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 6-14-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Wallworth, Adam. “Graze anatomy: Do elk crowd cattle?” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 5-9-2010.

Wallworth, Adam. “Newton County signs in sight.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette 4-5-2012.

Wallworth, Adam. “Residents hear options on cutting elk numbers.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 7-14-2010.

Whayne, Jeannie. “Early Twentieth Century, 1901 through 1940.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 11/2013)

Wilson, Ruth. “Elk returning to native habitat.” Arkansas Gazette, 2-11-1985.

Wood, Mary. “Ozark-St. Francis National Forests.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas.  (accessed 12/2013)

 

19th-Century Settlement
1901 map of Newton County, Arkansas

Modified portion of the 1901 “Map of Arkansas,” published by George F. Cram, Chicago.

Native Americans once lived in, farmed, and hunted throughout what’s now Newton County. In Boxley Valley, archeologists have found prehistoric home and work sites dating back almost 7,000 years. An 1817 treaty with the U.S. government brought Cherokee settlers to Northwest Arkansas and present-day Newton County. Most of them moved to Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma) in 1828, the result of another treaty with the government. Arkansas became a state in 1836. When Newton County was carved out of Carroll County in 1842, it was named for Thomas Willoughby Newton, then U.S. Marshal for Arkansas. One year later Jasper became the county seat. The first whites entering the area prior to statehood were hunters, trappers, and a few eager homesteaders. Some had Cherokee spouses and came with the first migration of Cherokee. They stayed in the area when the tribe was forced further west. Settlers used the forest to build their homes and selected rich bottomland to grow their crops. By 1850 there were 288 families in the county, numbering 1,711 people. Most were small-time farmers, without economic reason for holding enslaved workers. At the beginning of the Civil War there were about 25 African-Americans in the county, just a fraction of the overall population. Like much of Northwest Arkansas, loyalties were divided within communities and families—some sympathized with the Union while others were for the Confederacy. The county suffered its share of privation from bushwhackers, guerrilla bands, and skirmishes. Its valuable chemical and mineral resources were used for making gunpowder and bullets. After the war, the economy grew due to increased zinc and lead mining in the northern half of the county. Mines with colorful names like “Belle of Wichita” popped up everywhere, leading to boomtowns that flourished for a time. The rough terrain and remote location caused early railway planners to bypass the county entirely, making it the only county in Arkansas never to have a railroad.

20th-Century Growth
Logging truck, Newton County, Arkansas, 1970s-1980s.

Logging truck, Newton County, 1970s-1980s. Carl P. Hitt, photographer. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-2016-24-32)

By 1900 the population had swelled to 12,538, due in part to land speculators and new, out-of-state homesteaders. Timber harvesting joined mining as a major economic force. Large lumber companies and many local individuals bought thousands of acres of timber land. Numerous sawmills and logging camps were set up to harvest and process logs into railroad ties, mine props, barrel staves, pencils, dimensional lumber, equipment handles, furniture, and the like. It wasn’t long before the county’s extensive virgin forests were cut-over.

At the turn of the 20th century, cotton was a primary source of income for area farmers, but boll weevils decimated this cash crop. Other important agricultural products included livestock, wheat, corn, oats, and fruit. But without reliable and inexpensive transportation, these industries failed to thrive as long-term sources of revenue.

Newton County experienced a brief industry boom during World War I, fueled by the need for metals in the manufacture of cartridge and shell casings. Land rich in zinc and lead fostered the establishment of mines in Ponca, Pruitt, and Bald Hill. But a drop in prices and the inability to easily export these resources after war’s end lead to their demise.

The population of Newton County dropped steadily from 1900 to 1960, with an all time low of around 5,700 residents. It began a slow recovery beginning in the 1960s with the influx of newcomers arriving with the back-to-the-land movement. This growth continued in the 1980s.

21st-Century Future
Canoeists on the Buffalo River, Newton County, about 1989.

Canoeists on the Buffalo River, Newton County, about 1989. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-2016-24-41)

The county’s rugged geography has had a significant impact on its history and people. The progressive changes brought about in the past 100 years for most of the U.S. were late to arrive. Rural electrification was introduced as late as 1937; the first high-power lines weren’t installed until 1949. The first modern roads did not come until the 1950s, preventing sustained growth in manufacturing and industry.

However, it is the very nature of Newton County’s geographic seclusion which is largely responsible for the preservation of the natural beauty which attracts visitors from all over the world. Today tourism is the county’s major industry. Attractions include dude ranches and the Buffalo River which draws over 800,000 visitors each year. Ecotourism activities like hiking, camping, caving, outdoor cookouts, rock-climbing, and zip-lining in the Ozark National Forest and Lost Valley are popular. Many retirees come to the county to enjoy an easy-going lifestyle and beautiful scenery.

Timber continues to play an important economic role. While production has dramatically decreased over the decades, small-scale sawmills and other wood-product companies are still found amongst the hillsides.

The 2010 census reflects the relative isolation of Newton County. With 8,330 residents it is the 7th least-populated county in the state. Its population density is just 10 people per square mile. The largest city is the county seat of Jasper, with 466 people. Countywide, the median income is about $17,000 per person. More than 8,000 people self-identify as white, 9 as African-American, 90 as Native American, 25 as Asian, and 141 as having Hispanic origin.

Newton County’s rural past is still evident in the small, isolated communities tucked amongst its hillsides and valleys. This way of life is recognized and treasured in many ways, from the designation of the Buffalo as the country’s first National River in 1972 to the creation of the Big Buffalo Valley Historic District at Boxley in 1987. Fayetteville author Donald Harington immortalized the long-gone community of Murray via his mythical and magical “Stay More” novels. In them he blended the speech and manners of rural Newton County with plenty of tall-tales involving six generations of the Ingledew clan.

Newton County Close-Ups

Newton County Courthouse
Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, 1927.

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, July 3, 1927. John Robinson Collection (S-99-66-291)

“Most everyone became panic stricken, rushing down the main aisle for the door, screaming and shouting… All was in wild confusion and the noise was so loud that it was heard a mile or more away.”

J. Town Greenhaw
(Jasper, AR) Informer, February 28, 1948

There have been several courthouses in Newton County over the years. The first was a log structure, burned during the Civil War. After the war, court was held in several places, including a doctor’s office, a school building, and a saloon. Around 1873 Robbie Hobbs was charged with building a courthouse that would “last forever.” He built it out of cobblestone and coated the walls with mortar, polishing them until they were smooth and hard. Supposedly, a woman picked at the finish one day and made a hole. Some townsfolk, unsatisfied with the quality of the builder’s work, are said to have killed Hobbs.

A Christmas Eve party in the mid 1880s was held in the courtroom, even though a few cracks had begun to appear in the building’s walls. As the people awaited their gifts, someone shouted, “The courthouse is falling!” Panic struck. Some ran into the wood stove, knocking down the stove pipe. Many made a dash for the door while others leaped from the windows. Out on the lawn, women screamed for their children as doctors examined the wounded. Eventually the crowd quieted enough to receive their gifts. Apparently the building was strong enough to last another 15 or so years.

In 1902 land was purchased on the town square to build a new, two-story, limestone-veneer structure. In 1938 the courthouse burned to the ground, possibly as a result of arson. Many records were destroyed. A new courthouse, built by the Works Progress Administration, was begun in 1939 and completed three years later. Billed as fireproof, the Art Deco-style building has a concrete foundation and is made of stone quarried from the Little Buffalo River. It cost $42,000. The building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994.

Jasper’s courthouse square has been the scene of many celebrations including the Newton County Fair and the dedication of the paving of Highway 7.

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, circa 1984.

Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, circa 1984. Mary Parsons, photographer. Shiloh Museum Collection (S-84-90-17)

Civil War
Susie Villines with a kettle from the saltpeter works at Bat Cave, Boxley Valley, Newton County, Arkansas,about 1960.

Susie Villines with a kettle from the saltpeter works at Bat Cave, Boxley Valley, about 1960. It was used as a wash kettle for many years and first came into the family from Mrs. Villines’ grandfather, Abraham Clark. Courtesy Kenneth L. Smith, photographer.

“The enemy, surprised, barely attempted to form and scattered. . . . They fled in dismay, a race for life. In the charge and in pursuit for 8 miles, 30 were killed, a number wounded, and 8 taken prisoners. 23 heads of horses captured, and some 25 stand of arms, the larger portion of which was destroyed.”

Col. John E. Phelps
Second Arkansas [Union] Cavalry
April 23, 1864

The 1860 census listed 25 enslaved African-Americans for Newton County, less than one percent of the total population. Although there were no major Civil War battles in Newton County, skirmishes, bushwhackers, guerrilla bands, and divided families took their toll. Like the rest of Northwest Arkansas, some residents allied with the Union while others joined the Confederacy. The area’s many caves and isolated valleys hid men and supplied cover for military activities.

Malinda Newberry Logan lived on Kenner Creek near the Hopewell Community. During the war bushwhackers came to her home to steal food. They also ripped open the feather mattresses and rode their horses over them. The bedding was re-stuffed with dried leaves, causing a later band of marauding bushwhackers to remark, “Look here at this damn hog bed.” Malinda heard about a neighboring family who tried to hide their cured meat within a wall. The meat was discovered when grease stains penetrated the wood during warm weather.

The area’s natural resources were vital to regional war efforts. Lead deposits were mined to make bullets. Confederate forces established a saltpeter works at Bat Cave, near the headwaters of the Buffalo River. Saltpeter (potassium nitrate) is used to make gunpowder. It’s often found in the soil of caves heavy with bat and bird droppings. The soil was dug out and removed to wood vats. Water was filtered through and then boiled in large, iron kettles for hours, causing the formation of nitrate crystals. In January 1863 the First Iowa Cavalry destroyed the works, burning and smashing the equipment. The kettles were rescued by locals and put to use for washing clothes and scalding hogs, well into the 20th century. A few still sit in yards today.

The county’s biggest skirmishes occurred in April 1864. During the battle of Whiteley’s Mill (now Boxley), Confederate guerrilla bands, including one lead by Captain John Cecil, fought a scout patrol lead by Captain William Orr of the Second Arkansas (US) Cavalry. Cecil, a Confederate, was Newton County’s former sheriff; his brothers fought for the Union. After two hours of fighting, the Union side withdrew due to lack of ammunition.

A few days later Orr joined with Major Melton and others to search for Confederates whose mission was to disrupt Union supply trains passing through the county from southern Missouri. The Union forces tried to sneak up on the Confederates, who were camped in Limestone Valley, but were spotted by a scout. Still, the Confederate camp was in disarray when it was attacked on either side by Union soldiers, who pursued the fleeing Confederates for eight miles through wooded mountains.

Foodways
Workers possibly threshing oats, with a cornfield in the background, Western Grove, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s.

Workers possibly threshing oats, with a cornfield in the background, Western Grove, 1910s. Boone County Library/Edith Welburn Collection (S-87-127-88)

“The only obstacle in raising turkeys in those days was that the woods was full of wild turkey, and my turkeys would mix with them and refuse to return to their home.”

James Villines
History of Newton County, 1950

Early settlers generally raised enough food and livestock to meet their immediate needs. Most farms were small, given the steep and heavily forested hills. Farmers grew clover, sorghum, corn, peas, and beans in the river bottoms and along the mountain “benches,” narrow shelves of land. Larger farms existed in the northeast section of the county and along the river bottoms, where fields of barley, oats, rye, corn, alfalfa, and wheat grew well. Around the turn of the 20th century cotton was the principal crop, but boll weevils took their toll.

Families ground their corn into cornmeal at home or, more likely, took it to their local grist mill, such as the Whiteley Mill in Boxley Valley. Hogs were fattened up and slaughtered in the fall. The dead hog was scalded in a vat of hot water and hung up by its back legs. The hair was scraped off, the blood drained out, and the entrails removed. Then the carcass was butchered. The meat was salted down and hung in the smokehouse for curing. The fat was rendered into lard, the skin fried into cracklings, and the remaining bits turned into sausage and head cheese. “Hog-killing time” was often a time for neighbor to help neighbor. They’d share both work and meat. Children enjoyed playing with the “balloon” made from the hog’s bladder.

In the late 1800s, James “Beaver Jim” Villines grew corn in the rich bottomland of Boxley Valley. But first he had to clear the land of a thick growth of river cane. It was hard work because, after the cane had been dug out, it had to be burned. But the soil was rich and Villines could get 50 bushels of corn or more per acre. He raised turkeys, grew sweet potatoes, and sold seed and plants to his neighbors. Villines was a successful hunter, trapping otter, mink, and beaver. Beaver skins sold for $3 each while high-quality otter pelts went for $20.

Over in Low Gap, Isaac Whishon grew fruit trees and berries on a hillside bench. He was so good at it that he had excess fruit. He purchased an evaporator and began drying fresh apples and peaches. Sometimes he would spread cut fruit to dry on the roof of his home. His wife Cynthia turned the fruit into preserves and fruit butters.

Some farmers ran small-scale beef operations for the cash it would bring. In the early 1900s there were concerns about southern cattle being infected by ticks carrying Texas fever, a contagious and deadly disease. While local cattle might have some immunity, midwestern and northern cattle did not. It was feared that cattle shipped north for slaughter might bring the disease. In 1906 the federal government began a tick eradication program, asking farmers to dip their cattle biweekly in vats of pesticide. While some farmers welcomed the effort, many were against the program, angry about the government’s intervention. In Newton County, tick inspectors met resistance. One inspector noted, “Some trouble here at first, as many refused to dip cattle.” But in 1914 the county was considered free from Texas fever.

Religion
Dinner on the ground at Easter, Plumlee, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s.

Dinner on the ground at Easter, Plumlee, 1910s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-97)

“This little church [at Walnut Grove, in the Boxley Valley] has been the scene of worship and weddings, revivals, and funerals for many years. . . . Near the church is a cemetery where our babies, our spouses, our parents, and our grandparents rest in peace.”

Orphea Duty (1969)
Old Folks Talking, 2006

The first churches were small, log structures. As communities prospered, larger, wood-frame buildings were built. These buildings were often shared by churches, schools, and fraternal organizations. They were places where the community gathered for all kinds of events, from revivals to school pageants to fund-raising pie suppers.

Religious activities occurred outdoors as well. Baptisms were held in the Buffalo River and other county streams. In the summer and fall, brush arbor revivals were held under a rough wood structure roofed with brush and leaves. Participants often sat on wood benches to sing, testify, and listen to sermons. Dinners on the ground were social affairs held by the members of a congregation. Sheets and blankets laid on the ground in a long row held all kinds of wonderful food.

Circuit-riding preachers traveled by horseback from one country church to another, preaching to and praying with the locals. Families fed and housed the preachers whenever they passed through their community.

In Lurton, Uncle Dan Hefley tended to his flock at the Lurton Assembly for over 20 years, beginning in 1944. He could baptize up to 40 people a day. When she was young, Hefley’s daughter Lillie often traveled with him by foot or horseback to participate in revivals at Hasty, Low Gap, Jasper, Mt. Judea, and Gum Springs. Some revivals lasted over two weeks. Lillie remembered a few Sundays when her father couldn’t preach because the church’s altar, where he stood, would be filled with people seeking the Lord, wanting to be saved.

Timber
Jim Tate driving a log wagon, William Armer’s place, Osage Township, Newton County, Arkansas, 1910s-1920s.

Jim Tate driving a log wagon, William Armer’s place, Osage Township, 1910s-1920s. Eva Taylor and Wally Waits Collection (S-85-51-6)

“The breaking of the log jam [on the Buffalo River] became a risk for the floaters.  . . . As long as the logs are in a jammed stage, a person can run across them with ease, but when they begin to separate, stepping on them causes the logs to turn. This is what happened to my brother [Craft J. Lackey]. When he finally made it to the bank, he lost no time in locating the foreman to tell him that he had no further desire to float logs.”

Daniel Boone Lackey
Arkansas Historical Quarterly, 1960

Early settlers in Newton County found virgin forests full of ancient oak, ash, walnut, pine, and hickory. Red cedars lined the banks of the Buffalo River. One amazing cedar tree near Pruitt was about 42 inches in diameter at the ground and around 85 feet tall.

Besides using timber for building homes and barns, wood had commercial value. Local farmers could cut logs or barrel stave bolts for a much-needed infusion of cash. In the Low Gap area, Amos B. Lackey cut cedar trees during the winter in the 1880s. One year he was able to buy luxuries for his family including a metal washboard and clothes wringer for his wife, a set of harnesses for himself, and a “Hot Springs” diamond ring (quartz) for his daughter.

Logging was hard work and held many risks. Portable sawmills and stave mills were set up throughout the county, moving from section to section. Without a railroad line running through the county, transporting logs to market was difficult. Mule teams were used to snake logs out of the woods and haul log wagons over rough roads to neighboring counties and their railroad depots. Beginning in the early 1900s, tens of thousands of red cedar logs were floated down the Buffalo River to be turned into pencils.

The timber woods were soon depleted. After operating out of Boxley Valley for over two decades, the Malnar brothers of Austria left around 1940 once they could no longer find white oaks big enough to turn into barrel staves. By the 1950s most of the first- and second-growth trees were gone. Without reliable timber sales, the local economy faltered. Today many county farmers still use their timber woods to supplement their income, whether by cutting firewood or selling logs to manufacturers.

In 1989 several local environmental groups opposed a large-scale logging operation east of Jasper by Mountain Pine Timber. They were concerned about its impact on water quality, wildlife, and soil conservation. But some residents were in favor of the logging, both for the work the industry would bring and to protect property rights.

The southern half of Newton County is part of the much larger Ozark-St. Francis National Forests. When it was created in 1908, what was then the Ozark National Forest was, for a time, the nation’s only major hardwood timber land protected by the government. Purchasing cut-over land where virgin timber once stood, the U.S. Forest Service aimed to provide a renewable hardwood source for the area’s wood-based industries. Under today’s multiple-use management system, the forests’ 1.2 million acres are used for timber harvesting, recreational activities, grazing, and protection of wilderness and wildlife management areas. Counties receive 25% of revenues from use of resources. Much of these funds come from timber sales.

Great Depression
Mrs. Garrett Jones and children at their home, Newton County, Arkansas, 1933-1935.

Mrs. Garrett Jones and children at their home, Newton County, 1933-1935. Opal and Ernest Nicholson, photographers. Katie McCoy Collection (S-95-181-31)

“We heard a lot about the depression on the radio and in the newspapers, how it was so hard on everybody across the country. But we weren’t bothered by it that much.  . . . Maybe out in the eastern part of the county people might have been on welfare, but here in Boxley we had our good farms, and we raised about everything that we needed.”

Orphea Duty (April 1, 1996)
Old Folks Talking, 2006

In the 1930s timber was playing out, jobs were becoming scarce, and a regional drought affected farming severely. In some ways, the Great Depression hurt city folks more than country folks. The latter were used to being self-sufficient, producing their own food and making or repairing much of what they needed.

Cash might be earned by selling animal skins, stave bolts (used in barrel making), or goldenseal roots and ginseng, medicinal plants which grew in the wild. ‘Seal was used as an antiseptic and to stop bleeding while ‘seng was prized in Asia for its believed ability to restore and prolong youth.

But for some, their farms were too poor or their luck too rotten to make things work. They left the county, seeking employment elsewhere. Over in Boxley Valley, Tom and Gracie Fults moved to Ohio while the children of Tim Villines, a former enslaved worker, relocated to Oklahoma.

Some county residents received aid from the federal government. Ernest and Opal Nicholson ran a relief program in Newton County. They worked with several caseworkers to administer to the needs of their clients, many of whom were widows or people with disabilities who had no way to earn an income. Help came in many forms. Some clients were issued beef or canned goods, provided with reading material, supplied with clothing and household necessities, or given funds to purchase windows and screening materials.

A few clients were found jobs at sawmills or driving trucks. Clients received encouragement and advice from the case workers. One child was told “how nice she would look with her face washed nice and clean” while a woman was encouraged to plant flowers “because of the social value to [the] home.” Caseworkers were said to have “accomplished some desirable results by mentioning the nice things which the clients had done and suggesting other improvements.”

Through its many programs, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) gave employment to a variety of folks. The Federal Writer’s Project hired people to create travel guides and interview settlers and former slaves. In what was then the Ozark National Forest, the Civilian Conservation Corps created miles of trails. The courthouse at Jasper was built by WPA work crews, as was the gymnasium at the Newton County Academy and the Little Buffalo River Bridge, both in Parthenon. In Boxley the crews built concrete outhouses.

Rural Electrification
Rural Electrification Administration meeting, Newton County courthouse, Jasper, Arkansas, late 1930s.

Rural Electrification Administration meeting, Newton County courthouse, Jasper, late 1930s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-89)

“My dad [C. V. Burdine] went from house to house almost day and night for several weeks signing up people as members of Carroll Electric Cooperative so that electricity could be brought into our area.  . . . One of Dad’s favorite sales pitches and reasons for wanting electricity . . . [was] to have good lights in schools and churches. That reason just about won everyone—even if they weren’t too interested in getting electricity for their home.”

Kathryn Burdine Wheeler
Rural Arkansas, May 1984

In 1940 when the state population stood at 1.95 million, only 112,050 Arkansans had electricity, mostly in larger towns and cities. While there were several power-generating facilities, distribution was a problem. The federal Rural Electrification Act (REA) of 1936 was meant to improve that situation, along with improving the lives and incomes of farmers struggling with flood, drought, and the Great Depression.

Rural electrification was costly. Farms and homes were spread out, sometimes with just a few potential customers per mile. It often wasn’t profitable for privately owned power companies to take on rural customers. But with REA loans electric cooperatives could be formed, sharing the costs amongst their members. One such co-op is Carroll Electric Cooperative Corporation, incorporated November 1937.

In October 1938, 150 Carroll County customers were able to turn on electric lights in their homes for the first time. Seeing the success of the new venture, neighboring counties, including Newton County, petitioned the cooperative for similar service. County extension agents and volunteers went from home to home, explaining the work of the cooperative and signing up members for $5. Local residents were hired to clear brush and trees from right-of-ways, earning a whopping $2.40 a day during a time when the going daily rate for farm work was about 75 cents or $1.00. Soon utility poles and giant spools of wire were being brought in on big trucks.

Early co-op members were wired for one outlet per house with one drop light in each room. Over in Vendor, young Kathryn Burdine and her family waited anxiously for the electricity to be turned on, pulling on the light-bulb chain every now and then to check. When the electricity finally came one August night in 1940, she thought the folks at church seemed a little self conscious in the brightly lit building.

Electricity allowed Kathryn’s mother to use an electric iron for the first time while Kathryn and her siblings could listen to the Grand Ole Opry on the radio without fear of running down the battery. Later on, she and a sister saved money from their jobs and, with their brother’s sale of a pig, the three of them were able to buy a refrigerator for their parents. It was such a luxury for her dad to be able to have a thermos of ice water when he worked his farm fields.

In 1948 the REA began surveying the route for a proposed 33,000-volt high-power line to Jasper.

Highway 7
Jasper mayor A. B. Arbaugh introducing Governor Orval Faubus at the Newton County (Arkansas) dedication of Highway 7, Jasper County courthouse, September 7, 1956.

Jasper mayor A. B. Arbaugh introducing Governor Orval Faubus at the Newton County dedication of Highway 7, Jasper County courthouse, September 7, 1956. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-87)

“All this weekend there has been lots of activity around the Town Square when folks have been working like beavers, cleaning up, getting ready for our ‘Big Day.’ . . . Every day we’ve seen folks washing windows, cutting grass . . . and a whole crew, directed by Mayor A.B. Arbaugh were raking leaves on the Court House lawn and sweeping all gutters clean.”

Jessie Lu Abell
(Jasper, AR) Informer, September 1956

Early roads were often maintained by local governments. Able-bodied men armed with shovel, pick, and pry bar were expected to work on their community’s roads four days each year. Those who could afford it hired men to do the job for them. Many of these roads were poorly built, constructed under an elected township road overseer with little engineering or construction experience.

As the automobile gained prominence, road building took on greater importance. The Arkansas State Highway Commission was created in 1913 to address the need for a statewide system of roads. During the first half of the 20th century, Highway 7 was a rough, gravel road. But the need to improve it grew.

Road crews paved the road between Boone County and Jasper first. At the June 1951 dedication of this stretch of highway, onlookers enjoyed a parade and listened to the Harrison High School band. They also heard from speakers such as U.S. Representative J. W. Trimble, U.S. Senator J. W. Fulbright, and Governor Sid McMath and his aide, Orval Faubus. A noon dinner was served complete with “fried chicken, roast pork and roast beef, potato chips, bread, pickles, coffee and cake.” Festivities were paid for by local merchants. Both the Harrison and Russellville chambers of commerce sent car caravans. A similar celebration was held in September 1956 to celebrate the paving work from Jasper on south.

With its completion, Highway 7 became the first paved road to traverse the whole county. It linked Jasper to the larger cities of Harrison in the north and Russellville in the south, with all of their job opportunities, professional services, and shopping choices. The highway wasn’t a boon for all. Small towns like Lurton which once had a booming economy, due in part to the local wood-handle mill, suffered when it was bypassed by the highway.

The road linked Arkansas to Newton County, ushering in many tourism opportunities. Traveling south from Boone County, visitors would have had a chance to visit Dogpatch U.S.A., Paradise Hill with its craft and gift store, the county seat of Jasper, Diamond Cave, Arkansas’ “Grand Canyon,” Lost Valley with its six waterfalls, the Buffalo River and canoe outfitters at Ponca, and the Ozark National Forest. Highway 7 became the state’s first scenic byway in 1993.

Several landslides have damaged the road in recent years. In 2009 an area of highway just south of Jasper collapsed due to heavy rain. A few years later, repair work to fix the earlier damage caused a section of road to collapse again. In 2011 the state proposed changes to enlarge and realign the road and to replace the historic 1931 steel through-truss bridge over the Buffalo near Pruitt. A new bridge is expected to be built, but debate continues regarding the old bridge. While many want it preserved, neither the county nor the National Park Service can afford its maintenance.

Buffalo River
Canoeists at the take-out spot, Buffalo Point, Buffalo River, Newton County, Arkansas, June 25, 1972.

Canoeists at the take-out spot, Buffalo Point, Buffalo River, June 25, 1972. Mary Stockslager, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 6-25-1972)

“Everything you see here, everything except the tops of those bluffs, would have been submerged beneath a reservoir behind one of two dams the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers had planned to build. . . . Wild rivers, I’m afraid, are a vanishing species.”

Neil Compton
National Geographic, March 1977

“Movin’ out o’ here would mean givin’ up all I’ve got, all I’ve ever had. I hope to stay just as long as the Lord and those Government folks allow.”

Eva “Granny” Barnes Henderson
National Geographic, March 1977

Flowing about 150 wiggly miles east from its headwaters near Boxley towards its confluence with the White River, the Buffalo River has been many things to many people. Native Americans and later settlers used the river for food, water, and transportation. Entrepreneurs harnessed the river’s energy to run mills and float raw materials like cotton, minerals, and red cedar logs (for pencils) to market in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

As early as 1897 the U.S. Corps of Engineers looked at making the river navigable through a series of locks and dams, but the cost was too high. In 1936 a dam was proposed for power generation and flood control but never materialized because of the Great Depression and World War II. The Corps revised their plan in 1954, proposing two dams and the construction of Lone Rock Lake. While supported by many locals and members of the U.S. Congress, legislation to dam the river failed repeatedly.

In the late 1950s, Kenneth L. Smith, a University of Arkansas student, began a personal campaign extolling the beauty of the Buffalo through newspaper and magazine articles. His work helped popularize the notion that the river was worth saving in its natural state. U.S. Senator J. William Fulbright obtained an appropriation to fund a survey of the river by the National Park Service, which later declared that, as one of the last free-flowing rivers in the country, it should be preserved.

Dam proponents and opponents geared up for battle. Governmental agencies such as the Corps and Park Service opposed one another’s plans. Local organizations were formed, including the pro-dam Buffalo River Improvement Association and anti-dam Ozark Society, lead by Dr. Neil Compton of Bentonville. In Newton County some citizens wanted the dams for the progress and jobs they would bring, while many who lived along the river wanted neither dams nor a National River.

After many years of struggle, in 1972 the U.S. Congress officially designated the Buffalo a National River, the first in the nation. But opposition to a National Park continued. Many river-valley residents were upset with Park Service plans because it meant that they would be forced to sell their land to the federal government, leaving the homes and farms their ancestors had worked so hard to build.

In later years, Compton came to believe that pollution was the river’s greatest threat. In 2013 the Arkansas Department of Environmental Quality awarded a permit to build a major hog farm near Mt. Judea. Concerns quickly grew about the potential for damage to the river from accidental runoff of hog waste. After years of protest and litigation, in 2019 the State of Arkansas agreed to a $6.2 million buyout of the company. The land is now protected under a conservation easement.

 

Business
Joe Cowell and family at their cannery, near Deer, Newton County, Arkansas,1900s.

Joe Cowell and family at their cannery, near Deer, 1900s. Bill Bohannon Collection (S-86-250-91)

“No son of mine will ever sit down, fold his hands, and live off the Government. . . . I can’t keep the government from adding taxes and telling me how to run the plant I’ve spent half a lifetime building, but I can teach my sons to get out and hustle for themselves. By golly, the small business is the backbone of America . . .”

I. C. Sutton
Arkansas Gazette, October 16, 1949

Like churches, country stores were the heart of many a community. People collected their mail there and purchased or bartered for goods they couldn’t produce at home. Eggs could be traded for such things as baking powder, sugar, and salt. Store owners also bought animal skins and medicinal plants, selling what they gathered to traveling purchasing agents.

Boxley was named after William Boxley, the merchant who delivered goods to the valley stores and who later operated his own store there. The town of Ponca owes its name to the Ponca City, Oklahoma, Mining Company, which mined lead and zinc ore in the area in the early 1900s. As mining increased in the county, so did blacksmith shops which built and repaired equipment.

In 1929 I. C. Sutton bought a rough turn-handle mill and moved it to Lurton, renaming it the Lurton Furniture Factory. To keep the factory running during the Great Depression, it switched to making barrels and then handles for things like hammers, railroad picks, and axes. World War II bought prosperity to the newly renamed I. C. Sutton Handle Factory, the only war-related business in the county. After the war the business expanded its production to baseball bats, telegraph spade handles, and pike poles used for logging. The business relocated to Harrison in the late 1950s to keep down shipping costs. The move turned Lurton into a ghost town.

The paving of Highway 7 in the 1950s brought some prosperity to the towns along its path. New businesses sprung up. But the highway took away business, too. Some traveled to larger towns in neighboring counties, such as Harrison and Russellville, to conduct their business and do their shopping.

In the 1940s politics was the frequent topic of discussion in Jasper’s two cafés. Pearl’s Café was home to the Democrats while Upton’s Café hosted the Republicans. Today Upton’s is now the Ozark Café, and politics are still discussed.

In 2010 the Jasper Commercial Historic District, including the courthouse, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The simple, rockwork structures were influenced by the availability of the area’s plentiful stone and the town’s relative isolation, free from outside architectural trends. Five of the buildings were built by Gould Jones, a local blacksmith and builder. He constructed a small reservoir in town in the early 1940s to provide water to a tomato-canning factory. The factory was closed by the Arkansas Department of Health when tomato juice was found in local wells.

Commercial Hotel, Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,1910s-1920s.

Commercial Hotel, Jasper, 1910s-1920s. A 1922 ad noted that the hotel offered, “electric lights, clean rooms, good meals, [and] special attention to tourists and [the] traveling public.” Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-67)

Camp Orr
Boy Scouts at Camp Orr, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,July 1967.

Boy Scouts at Camp Orr, near Jasper, July 1967. Springdale News Collection (SN 7-1967)

“We seek to create a camp where a boy will have opportunity for instruction and practice in woodcraft skills. We seek to develop physical fitness and resourcefulness to adapt himself to his surroundings and to live out of doors.”

L. M. R. Rogers
Scout Executive, Westark Area Council
Ozarks Mountaineer, September 1955

“Being on staff [in the mid 1960s] was kind of a dream for a teenage boy.  We’d work for four or five hours, then spend the rest of the day in this wilderness playground.”

Jack Butt
Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, May 25, 2003

Camp Orr was developed in the early 1950s by the Westark Area Council of the Boy Scouts of America, based out of Fort Smith. Located a few miles northwest of Jasper, along the banks of the Buffalo River, the camp is named after Raymond F. Orr, a Fort Smith industrialist and former Council president who was instrumental in the camp’s development.

When it came time to find a camp site, Orr and a few other men are said to have paddled the Buffalo in search of the perfect spot. Orr purchased parcels of land from local landowners and then sold hundreds of acres to the Council for $15,000.

The first organized camp activities were held in the summer of 1955. Early structures included a trading post, a dining hall housed in a large Army tent, and a 34,000-gallon concrete water reservoir. Today the camp hosts a few thousand campers each summer, making it Newton County’s second largest “town” after Jasper. Troops come from Arkansas and across the country to gain skill in such things as knot tying, fire building, and woodworking.

The camp’s natural resources are plentiful—a river for canoeing, forests for camping and backpacking, rocks for climbing and rappelling, and flora and fauna for studying. The camp even has its own haunting legend, that of Smokey Joe, a former scoutmaster who is said to have lost his sanity after being hit in the head with a rock.

When the Buffalo National River Wilderness Area was established in 1972, the camp found itself within the area’s boundaries, the only Boy Scout camp in America in a national park. At first there was concern over whether or not the camp could remain. Negotiations went on for five years. In the end it was decided that as long as the camp followed National Park Service guidelines, like keeping the road into the property unpaved, it could stay. In 2003 the camp celebrated its 50th anniversary in true camp fashion, with food, fun, and stories around the campfire.

Diamond Cave
“Piano” formation, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,early 1920s.

“Piano” formation, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, 1921-1925. Hidy Bouher Eby, Butch Bouher, and Lota Dee Bouher Lagan Collection (S-2001-2-12)

“There is a thrilling slide down Lover’s Leap to a point in the cave where visitors may behold the Pipe Organ… The calcite stems, or pipes of the organ, are so tense and delicate that the scale of music can be run by deftly tapping the rigid rock, and the cave is thus made to ring with melody.”

Playgrounds in Arkansas
1920s

Newton County is known for having a significant number of caves: Beauty Cave, Bat Cave, Civil War Cave, Beckham Creek Cave, and Hurricane River Cave. Perhaps the best known is Diamond Cave, located near Jasper. Likely named for the sparkling beauty seen as light glistens off of the cave’s dripping water and many-colored formations, the cavern is thought to have at least 20 miles of passageways.

The cave is said to have been discovered in 1834 by Sam and Andy Hudson, Tennessee migrants who homesteaded nearby. As the story goes, they were out hunting when their dogs disappeared into a hole in a hillside. Venturing into the cave with burning pine knots for torches, they found dogs and bears fighting. After killing the bears the men explored the cave for about three miles and saw its many wonders.

Early visitors explored with the aid of torches. They were guided by the son of one of the discoverers, who charged $2 for a group’s daylong tour. In 1922 W. J. “Jonah” Pruitt bought the cave and made improvements to it and the land. Three years later he sold the property to the Diamond Cave Corporation, maintaining a majority share of the stock. Walkways were created and protective handrails put in place. At first the cave’s electric light came from a gasoline-powered generator. Only one tour group could visit the cave at a time, as there wasn’t enough power to light multiple rooms simultaneously.

The trail through the cave was about two miles long. Fanciful names were given to various passages and formations—Crystal Lane, the Sugar Room, the Auditorium of Rome, the Statue of Liberty, and Fat Man’s Agony (a tight passageway). Baloney Pool owes it name to a tourist who didn’t believe the guide’s word that the water in a pool was deeper than it looked. Crying “Baloney!” he stepped into the pool only to realize the guide spoke the truth.

At various times the park had campgrounds and a bath house, rental cabins, a museum, and the Panther Inn, which sold refreshments and offered a hall for dances and parties. The rollerskating rink, built in 1939, was a popular place for local youngsters, who would often catch a ride to the rink on logging trucks from nearby communities like Deer, Ponca, and Low Gap. At its peak the cave had 10,000 visitors annually. On busy weekends the guides were given hamburgers as they left the cave with one tour group and immediately entered with another, eating on the go.

The cave closed to the public in 1988. In 1995 it was sold to the Mas Suerte Corporation of Texas. At the time the company indicated that it wanted to preserve and protect the cave and the surrounding property. Plans included restoration of native plants and trees and a wildlife refuge. The cave is closed at present.

Dogpatch
Statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone, Dogpatch U.S.A., Marble Falls, Newton County, Arkansas, June 1968.

Statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone, Dogpatch U.S.A., Marble Falls, June 1968. The fictitious Cornpone was an incompetent Confederate general and founder of Dogpatch. Bob Edmiston, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 6-1968 #1)

“Dogpatch is really something else. People in the East think all the creativity and action is on the coasts, but the Midwest comes up with some fantastic ideas—like Dogpatch. It is a fine thing for Arkansas and it doesn’t hurt me either.”

Al Capp
Baxter (AR) Bulletin, May 16, 1968

Al Capp, creator of the “Li’l Abner” comic strip, was approached by a group of Boone County investors for permission to recreate his imaginary town of Dogpatch in the wilds of Arkansas. In 1966 they purchased a 160-acre trout farm near the town of Marble Falls, north of Jasper.

The first phase of Dogpatch cost over $1.3 million. Opened to the public in May 1968, the park featured buggy rides, a miniature railroad known as the “West Po’k Chop Speshul,” a trout farm, Ozark arts and crafts, a honey shop and apiary for bees, 1800s-era log cabins, and various hillbilly characters. Over 300,000 people visited the first year. Adults were charged $1.50, children 75 cents.

Soon there was a change in leadership; businessman Jess Odom gained controlling interest. New rides were added and a campsite developed. A few years later Odom broke ground on the Marble Falls resort, next to Dogpatch. The resort included a convention center, an indoor ice-skating rink, and—surprisingly—ski runs kept white with machine-made snow. Financial problems and mild winters led to the resort’s closure in 1977, the same year Capp retired his comic strip.

An economic feasibility study of the park in the late 1960s suggested that, by its tenth year of operation, the park would see over one million visitors a year. At best it attracted 200,000 annually. Competition with the nearby Silver Dollar City theme park in Branson, Missouri, didn’t help. Times were changing. In 1980 fiscal debt, changes in leadership, a decrease in tourism, and two money-losing summers forced the owners to file for bankruptcy.

Even as it struggled, the park stayed open. It added new attractions and featured country music stars like Reba McEntire. Owners came and went. In an effort to rebrand itself, in 1991 “Li’l Abner” and the other cartoon characters were replaced with a generic Ozarks theme. Dogpatch closed October 1993. A year later the Carr brothers of Boone County bought the property but didn’t do anything with it. Over the years vandals and souvenir hunters took their toll on the former park. The statue of Jubilation T. Cornpone was taken to Branson and may still be there on the bed of a trailer.

In 2005 a father and his teenage son were riding their four-wheelers on the property when the son ran into a steel cable strung across the road and was hit in the neck. There were questions about whether the property’s caretaker, another Carr brother, knew about trespassers and deliberately put up the cable as a deterrent. In 2011 the Arkansas Supreme Court upheld an earlier jury’s verdict to award money to the injured family. As the Carrs didn’t pay the judgment, the Dogpatch property was transferred to the family and their lawyer. Since then, the land has been in limbo. The current owner is anxious to sell

Elk
Elk, Boxley Valley, Newton County, Arkansas,January 24, 1993.

Elk, Boxley Valley, January 24, 1993. Jill Smith, photographer. Springdale News Collection (SN 1-24-1993)

“They’re mean, wild and stout. . . . A lot of people here would never get a chance to see them if we hadn’t brought them in. I’m just tickled to death with the way they’re doing and with having them here.”

Robert Harrison
Arkansas Gazette, February 11, 1985

Elk once roamed North Arkansas, as evidenced by name of the old Elkhorn Tavern in Benton County, which displayed a pair of elk antlers on its roof. But overhunting in the late 1800s and loss of habitat as prairies were transformed into farmland first reduced, then wiped out, the once-large population.

A century later, hunters petitioned the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission to reestablish the elk. When Hilary Jones joined the Commission in 1980 and saw Oklahoma’s successful elk reintroduction, he figured it could work in Arkansas. The Buffalo National River valley near his home in Pruitt seemed ideal.

In 1981 local volunteers brought the first seven elk from Colorado, where the animal was plentiful. The elk were transported in cattle trailers lined with sheets of plywood in order to reduce stress and minimize injuries. More elk were relocated over the next four years. Soon calves were being born. Today the population stands around 450.

The elk are quite a draw. Tourists often line Highway 43 in Boxley Valley to watch for elk, especially in October during the animals’ mating season. They also visit the new Elk Education Center in Ponca. Each year thousands vie for one of a few dozen permits for two five-day hunting seasons.

But not everyone is happy. Some locals have complained about the growing herd and their impact on cattle-grazing land and the region’s plants. There are also concerns about the danger to roadside tourists. A few worry that Boxley Valley is becoming a kind of zoo.

In 2012 several water, wildlife, and conservation agencies and groups sought to halt the U.S. Forest Service’s expansion of elk habitat into Bearcat Hollow, just east of the Newton County line. They claimed that the clear cutting, road building, and herbicide use needed to thin and manage the forest would be excessive and would endanger lands protected by the Arkansas Wilderness Act of 1984.

Mining
Kilgore Mine, Ponca, Newton County, Arkansas, 1916

Kilgore Mine, Ponca, 1916. From left: Hope Strong, Lick Greenhaw, Lynn Jones, Hobert Criner, Frank Cheatham, unidentified, and Carol Greenhaw. Willie Bohannan Collection (S-83-82-56)

“Usually only about four men could work in a small tunnel [at the Panther Creek Mine].  One man was engaged in wheeling out the waste and collecting the ore worth saving. . . . From the ‘diggings’ a . . . track capable of supporting a small hand gondola car extended some 300 yards to the ore mill.  At the end of the track the mined ore, a combination of dirt, rock, and ore, was dumped in the grill screen grates where it was broken . . . [and] fed to the crusher.”

Walter F. Lackey (1960)
Newton County Times, August 25, 1983

In the late 1850s, lead ore was mined and processed near the mouth of Cave Creek and at the headwaters of the Buffalo River near Ponca and Boxley. Over 18,000 pounds or more of ore was extracted, mainly for making lead bullets for rifles. The process was crude. Ore was dug out by hand from open cuts or shallow shafts. A crude smelter (furnace) made of stone was used to separate the metal from the rock. With the advent of the Civil War came the need for even more lead. The Cave Creek operation was worked by Confederate forces.

Lack of easy transportation limited the growth of mining. In the early days, raw ore and processed minerals were hauled by wagon over rugged terrain and then shipped down the Buffalo River. When railroads came to neighboring counties by the turn of the 20th century, materials were transported by wagon north to Harrison or west to St. Paul for shipment by rail.

By the end of the 19th century zinc mining had surpassed lead mining in importance. Zinc was used as a paint pigment, for battery electrodes, and to galvanize (coat) iron to protect it from corrosion. A 5,200-pound sample of nearly pure zinc from the Panther Creek Mine near Diamond Cave was said to have been sent for display to the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, winning first honors in its class.

The need for zinc further increased by 1915, as World War I was underway in Europe. During this time the Panther Creek Mine produced about 3,000 tons of zinc concentrates. Prices began to decrease in 1917 due to a glut of minerals on the market, the high production costs of refining the ore, the area’s poor transportation options, and the loss of an able labor force as young men were recruited to fight. After the war, North Arkansas mines and their adjacent boomtowns were often abandoned.

Lead and zinc mining occurred off and on over the years, mostly small shovel-and-pick operations. In the 1940s miners were back at the old Confederate mine near Cave Creek, extracting large quantities of zinc and lead ore.

While lead and zinc were the primary materials mined or quarried in Newton County, there are also significant deposits of limestone, sand and gravel, and sandstone, as well as some coal and iron. Between 1895 and 1936 1,500 tons of coal were extracted from two mines in the northeastern corner of the county. Perhaps the first recorded instance of quarrying involved a 45-ton limestone block quarried in 1836 near Marble Falls for the Washington Monument in Washington D.C. A century later, a limestone quarry southeast of Jasper produced an estimated 50,000 tons of crushed rock during the construction of Highway 7.

Newton County Academy
Members of the Herculean Society, Newton County Academy, Parthenon, Newton County, Arkansas, mid 1920s.

Members of the Herculean Society, Newton County Academy, Parthenon, mid 1920s. Formed in 1920 as a literary society, the Herculeans gave programs and performances and participated in debates. Elmer Casey Collection (S-83-115-14)

“We admit we were freshmen, Much greener than the grass, But now we’re glad to say, We’re the sophomore class.”

Thomas Ryker
Newtonian, 1922

During the 19th and early 20th centuries, one-room schools dotted the countryside, serving to educate students in communities and towns. Schools operated for only a few months each year, when the children weren’t needed for farm work. But there wasn’t an avenue for higher learning until October 1920, when the Newton County Academy opened with 144 students. It was part of the Southern Baptist mountain mission school program, dedicated to bringing education and civilizing influences to rural areas. Describing Newton County as “the most destitute field in Arkansas,” the Baptists worked with community leaders to establish the school.

Donations in the form of cash, trees, and sawn lumber were used to build a two-story, native rock building. A girls’ dormitory was built to house out-of-town students as the Academy was, for a time, the only high school in the county. A rockwork gymnasium was built in 1936 as part of the Works Progress Administration program. The stage was paid for in part by area businesses in exchange for advertisements on the curtain.

The school offered coursework in music, mathematics, business, Latin, and the social sciences. Student societies focused on literature and religion. Tuition was staggered, depending on the grade the child attended. Seniors paid $4.50 per month, or $36 for the entire session.

Keeping the school going financially was a struggle. Money was still owed for the main building, so some of the school’s land was sold to help pay the debt. Many individuals and groups stepped up to help. Womens’ Missionary Unions in Arkansas and Texas helped fund tuition fees. The women of the Second Baptist Church in Little Rock assisted with dormitory furnishings and clothing. Baylor University in Texas, which directed the Baptist Mountain School program, provided equipment and maintenance.

The state took over the Academy in 1930, switching it to a public school. School consolidation in the 1940s and 1950s forced many of the local schools to close, moving students to larger, more centralized schools. At the Academy, students were transferred to the Jasper Public School district. The last high school class graduated in Parthenon in 1948; the last year of grade school was 1954.

Over the years the dormitory burned to the ground, the school building was dismantled for its rocks, and the gymnasium lost its roof. In the mid 1990s, Beulah Shelton began a campaign to save the gym. Through the donation of labor and money, including state capital improvement funds, the structure was rebuilt and rededicated October 2005. Today it’s used for community functions. The Academy was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986.

Pastimes
James Braswell (far left) with members of the Jasper and Parthenon bands playing at a spring picnic, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, Newton County, Arkansas,about 1910.

James Braswell (far left) with members of the Jasper and Parthenon bands playing at a spring picnic, Diamond Cave, near Jasper, about 1910. Ardella Braswell Vaughan Collection (S-89-81-15)

“ . . . by this time Highway 7 had been upgraded considerably and people came from miles around to shake their shaves, get boozed up, and let their hair down.”

Henry Sutton
Mid-American Folklore, 2000

James T. Braswell was born in Carroll County, but lived in Jasper for about 25 years. A carpenter by trade, he also made furniture and musical instruments such as mandolins and violins. On Saturday afternoons in the summer, he led Jasper’s town band from the bandstand next to the courthouse. Braswell was also a songwriter, penning “In the Land of a Million Smiles” in 1925. The song was written on behalf of the Ozark Playgrounds Association, which used it for many years to boost its tourism efforts in the Arkansas and Missouri Ozarks.

Community picnics were a frequent summer event in the early 1900s. Some picnics were quite elaborate with concession rights sold to the highest bidder. The day before the picnic, underbrush was cleared and booths set up for lemonade, ice cream, fruit, hot dogs, souvenirs, and the like. A horse- or mule-powered wooden “swing” gave round-and-round rides for a nickel. “Happy Jack” Moore of Swain was one of the best-known swing operators. He drew customers in with his singing, dancing, and snappy patter.

In Lurton, the picnic lasted for three days, drawing up to 1,000 people. Folks had a chance to catch a greased pig, dance to live music, or look for coins in a giant pile of sawdust. They could also pay for a ride in an airplane. In the 1930s, Lurton was the scene of some rowdy Saturday-night dances, courtesy of the local loggers and the workers from the Civilian Conservation Corps. As the nickelodeon played Western Swing music, couples courted and moonshine flowed.

Shooting matches were popular. In the early 1900s men and boys in the Low Gap community would lie on the ground with their muzzleloaders propped up on a log and take aim at paper targets tacked onto clapboards. Their rifles had names such as “Old Bangum,” “Yellow Jacket,” and “Old Countabore.” Contestants were given seven shots throughout the day, with the winners being declared after much scrutiny of the shot-up targets. Prior to the event, the contestants chipped in to purchase a steer for about $12. During the match, the animal was slaughtered. The winners received certain cuts of beef, depending on their ranking, with some selling their winnings to others.

In Low Gap, Isaac and Cynthia Wishon where known for their keen enjoyment of visiting with friends and neighbors. Cynthia was a good cook. The noon meal might include dried smoked beef and venison, sauerkraut, apple and pumpkin pies, fried chicken, potatoes, and turnip greens, all washed down with coffee, milk, and spicewood or sassafras tea. While the women gathered to quilt, knit, and share neighborhood news, the men played card games (“pitch” and “seven up”) and pitched horseshoes. Often folks tuned up their instruments to play songs such as “Buffalo Gals” and “Arkansas Traveler.”

Ted Richmond and the Wilderness Library
Ted Richmond (right) at the Wilderness Library, Mount Sherman, Newton County, Arkansas,1940s-1950s.

Ted Richmond (right) at the Wilderness Library, Mount Sherman, 1940s-1950s. Flossie Smith Collection (S-98-88-525)

“I literally started with a Bible and a prayer. It has not been easy, but I have had the most remarkable answers to prayers. One summer when the drought burned up the gardens, I used nearly all my slender grocery money for the library, and lived on wild roots, wild onions, berries, and the like. But the books kept coming, and that was what I wanted.”

Ted Richmond
Christian Science Monitor, April 5, 1947

Born in Nebraska, James Theodore “Ted” Richmond lived in many places and had several jobs. But he grew tired of living in a fast-paced world, isolated from his neighbors. Eventually he found his way to Mount Sherman, a few miles northwest of Jasper.

With the help of his neighbors, in 1930 or 1931 Richmond cleared some land, built a small log cabin, and started a goat herd. His aim was to establish the Wilderness Library, a place where his neighbors could have access to the knowledge of the world. At first the only book he had to lend was the Bible. But he wrote to friends and publishers and soon books and magazines began arriving.

As word of the library spread, folks made the trek to pay a visit and borrow a book. For those who couldn’t make it, Richmond hauled 60-70 pounds worth of books in a canvas sack along rugged mountain roads and trails. He visited neighbors, sharing books, preaching and praying, and gathering news to bring to the next family on his route. Seeing a need, he began the “Wilderness White Christmas,” gathering and delivering small toys, clothing, medicine, shoes, and other necessities to his neighbors.

The Wilderness Library grew. Shelves of books were placed in schools and churches. A few branch libraries were established, including the Raney Branch further up the mountain from Richmond’s place. In the early 1950s it held about 1,500 volumes, including The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and the Boy Scout Handbook. Light was provided by oil lamps. Borrowers recorded their loans in a notebook. If someone wanted to contact Richmond, he or she could holler for him using an old phonograph horn, hoping that the wind was blowing in the right direction for him to hear.

Richmond knew the value of a good story. He wrote articles about the library, which he sent to newspaper and magazine editors, and went on publicity tours. A few major publications sent reporters to interview him. A 1952 article in the Saturday Evening Post positively delighted in the tale of a backwoods hermit tending to the literary needs of his hillbilly neighbors. The locals weren’t pleased, going so far as to create the Newton County Betterment Group to fight this unfair portrayal.

Years of rough living and poor diet may have taken their toll, along with the arrival of a regional library system in 1944. In 1953, Richmond married longtime friend Edna Gardner of Texarkana, Texas, whom he had met through the Ozark Artists and Writers Guild. Not long after that, Ted Richmond left his cabin and library and moved to Texarkana. He died there in 1975.

Tourism
Pearl Wilhemina McGowan Holland with a stringer of goggle-eyed perch, largemouth bass, and catfish, by the store at Shady Grove Campground, Pruitt, Newton County, Arkansas,1930s.

Pearl Wilhemina McGowan Holland with a stringer of goggle-eyed perch, largemouth bass, and catfish, by the store at Shady Grove Campground, Pruitt, 1930s. Richard and Melba Holland Collection (S-98-2-340)

“I love it here. . . . You are so close to God you can just see it all around you. The birds sing all the time . . . and you should hear the whippoorwill at night. It’s the most peaceful place in the world.”

Pearl Holland
Tulsa World, June 20, 1965

Today, much of Newton County’s businesses are tourism related. Whether folks are camping in the Ozark-St. Francis National Forests or floating the Buffalo River or riding their motorcycles down scenic Highway 7, tourism dollars are important to the county’s economy.

The area’s rivers, especially the Buffalo, have always drawn anglers. For decades, visitors often stopped at the Shady Grove Campground at Pruitt to fish or swim the Buffalo. The camp was established in 1920 by F. A. Hammons. It offered a bathhouse, bathing suit and towel rentals, campsites, a dance hall, and a well-maintained river sandbar. When the new bridge was built in 1931, Hammons built a few rental cabins on the old bridge. Famous artist Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri was a campground regular. A sign at the camp read, “No hard drinks, shouting or unlawful acts allowed.”

For many years Hammons’ step-daughter Pearl McGowan Holland was the camp’s manager. Pearl’s son, Richard, grew up on the river—swimming, fishing, hunting, and exploring caves. At age 16 he quit school to become a fishing guide for tourists for a time. In 1973 the Holland family made a heartbreaking decision. They sold their land along the Buffalo to the National Park Service. They greatly missed the river and the opportunities the campground gave them to meet new people and visit with old friends.

In Boxley Valley in the late 1930s, Clyde Villines and others worked to clear many years of silt and vegetation out of the millpond which fed his grist and flouring mill. He stocked the revitalized pond with fish and built five small cabins to rent to weekend anglers from Harrison and other nearby towns.

Ponca is the headquarters for folks wanting to float a popular stretch of the Buffalo. On spring and summer weekends the river is lined with canoes and paddlers, many transported to the river by either the Lost Valley Canoe Service or the Buffalo Outdoor Center, the area’s two major outfitters. Locals sometimes see it as an “aluminum stream,” both for the canoes and beer cans that float on by.

In 2004 Randal and Debbie Phillips purchased a few of the buildings at the old Marble Falls ski resort next to Dogpatch, and began transforming them into a motorcycle resort complete with motel and restaurant, convention center, campground, and motorcycle-related shops. The Phillips hope to make Newton County the biker capital of Arkansas.

Whiskey Making
Men with sacks of corn at the Bat House Cave distillery, Wells Creek, near Hasty, Newton County, Arkansas,1900s-1910s.

Men with sacks of corn at the Bat House Cave distillery, Wells Creek, near Hasty, 1900s-1910s. Newton County Times Collection (S-88-234-94)

“Several men were lounging around each still, but it was noticeable that none of them were drunk or even drinking. . . . [T]hey probably considered that they were at work, and a man cannot very well get drunk and work at the same time.”

Wayman Hogue
Back Yonder, 1932

For much of the 1800s, making alcohol didn’t require legal permits or taxes. Just the proper equipment, a few sacks of dried corn, and a good supply of water. Aside from the pleasures of home brew, distilling whiskey was a good way to use surplus corn and make some cash.

One of Newton County’s first stills was run by Alfred Carlton at a spring on his father’s homestead near Parthenon. At Henson Creek, John Dale put his still under a rock shelter. For 35 cents a customer could get a large gourd-full of “mountain dew.” Squirrel hunter Tom Reynolds stopped to visit with Dale one day, only to have the stopper from his powder horn pop out as he bent to light his pipe from a cooking fire. After the ignited gunpowder produced a loud bang, Reynolds said, “That White Mule sho do have some kick.”

In 1897 the U.S. government passed the Bottled-in-Bond Act, in part to guarantee that spirits were unadulterated (not diluted or impure). Only legal, government-bonded distilleries were allowed to manufacture and sell alcohol. Revenue stamps were affixed to barrels and bottles to show that the proper taxes had been paid. The taxation caused many distillers to hide their operations from the revenue agents, leading to the rise of moonshining. However, there were two legal distilleries in Newton County. One was Bill McDougal’s distillery near the Big Hurricane Creek.

Over at Bat House Cave at the head of Wells Creek, between Hasty and Yardelle, owners Charles Bethany and Newton Sanders operated their distillery within a natural rock shelter that had a good spring. One way to make whiskey was to soak corn kernels in water for a couple of days and let them sprout. The corn was crushed into bits or “chops” and placed in a wood barrel along with coarse-ground cornmeal to create a mash. After a few days of fermentation the starch in the corn was converted into sugar. The mash was placed in an enclosed metal cooker and heated. The rising steam was trapped in a coiled copper tube or “worm” which was cooled by water. What dripped out as liquid was further cooked and condensed to make whiskey.

The distiller at Bat House was Tom Raney. After fermentation the mash was dumped into a wood trough as hog feed, leading to a few tipsy pigs. Gaugers George Ray and Newt Jones weighed the whisky and placed government stamps on the barrels, proof that the distillery had paid its taxes. The distillery was allowed to make 12 gallons a day.

The distilleries closed in 1917, when Arkansas’ “bone dry” liquor law went into effect, which prohibited the “transportation, delivery, and storage of liquor.” The night Bat House closed, the liquor barrels were stolen from the warehouse. Moonshining continued as national prohibition went into effect in 1920.

Credits

Allen, Eric. “Confederate Powder Cavern Still Looms Above Buffalo.” Southwest Times Record, 11-27-1966.

Arden, Harvey. “America’s Little Mainstream.” National Geographic, Vol. 151, No. 3 (March 1977).

“Arkansas Elk Herd is on the Grow.” Unidentified and undated news clipping (1986). Shiloh Museum research files.

Arkansas Game and Fish Commission. “Ponca Elk Education Center.” (accessed 11/2013)

Arkansas Gazette. “Ore in Newton County Spurs Mine Activity.” 12-8-1940.

Arkansas Historic Preservation Program. “Gould Jones Reservoir, Jasper, Newton County.” (accessed 12/2013)

Arkansas Historic Preservation Program. “Jasper Commercial Historic District, Jasper, Newton County.” (accessed 12/2013)

Bethune, Ed. “What price elk? Stop the Bearcat Hollow Project. ” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-11-2012.

Blevins, Brooks. “Mountain Mission Schools in Arkansas.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LXX, No. 4 (Winter 2011).

Blevins, Brooks. Hill Folks: A History of Arkansas Ozarkers and Their Image. University of North Carolina Press: Chapel Hill, 2002.

“Bone Dry” Liquor Law of 1917. FranaWiki. (accessed 11/2013)

Bowden, Bill. “5 environmental groups unite to halt elk habitat expansion.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-30-2012.

Bowden, Bill. “Arkansas bridge falling victim to age, upkeep costs.Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 12-15-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Bowden, Bill. “Dogpatch dream dies: Owner of abandoned Arkansas theme park served foreclosure notice.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 12-8-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Bowden, Bill. “National park working to broaden its diversity.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 6-18-2012.

Branham, Chris. “Section of Arkansas 7 collapses near Jasper.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 8-15-2012.

Braswell, James. “In the Land of a Million Smiles.” Stephen A. Douglas Music Normal Association: Aldrich, MO, 1925.

Buffalo National River, National Park Service. “Whiteley Mill, April 1864.” (accessed 11/2013)

Carroll County Tribune. “Carroll Electric Will Mark Golden Anniversary.” 11-4-1987.

Carroll Electric Cooperative Corporation. “Burdine honored by Electric Cooperatives.”  3-2-2010.  (accessed 12/2013; no longer available 3/2020)

Cessna, Ralph. “Library in the Wilderness.” Christian Science Monitor, 4-5-1947.

Charles, Steve. “Ozark Byways.” Ozark Highways, Spring/Summer 1972.

Chestnut. E. F. “Rural Electrification in Arkansas, 1935-1940: The Formative Years.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XLVI, No. 3 [Autumn 1987].

Christenson, Jeff. “Camp Orr: Summertime Tradition for Scouts.” Harrison Daily Times, 7-28-1988.

Clayton, Joe. “Ted Richmond’s ‘Wilderness Library.'”  unidentified and undated news clipping (1950s). Shiloh Museum research files.

Compton, Neil. The Battle for the Buffalo River: A Twentieth-Century Conservation Crisis in the Ozarks. University of Arkansas Press: Fayetteville, 1992.

Craft, Dan. “Boy Scout Camp Turns 50.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 5-25-2003.

Craft, Dan. “Camp Orr Celebrates 50 Years.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 6-20-2003.

Croley, Victor A. “The Battle of Whiteley’s Mill Was Small.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 21, No. 5 (June 1973).

Deane, Ernie. “Multi-Purpose Forests.” Springdale News, 2-25-1981.

Dezort, Jeff. “Camp Orr’s 50th anniversary celebrated.” Newton County Times, 6-26-2003.

Dezort, Jeff. “No. 45: A scenic byway since 1993.” Newton County Times, 4-22-2010.

Dodson, Donna. “Christmas party brought down early courthouse.” Donna Dodson, Newton County Times, 3-18-2010.

Dogpatch U.S.A.” AbandonedOK.  (accessed 11/2013)

Dogpatch U.S.A.” Arkansas Roadside Travelogue, 4-2-2001.

Edmisten, Bob. “Dogpatch, USA, Growing.” Springdale News, 6-11-1969.

Edson, Arthur. “America the Beautiful: The Ozarks.”  Tulsa World, 6-20-1965

Electric Cooperatives of Arkansas. “Our History” [rural electrification]. (accessed 12/2013)

Faris, Ann. “I Didn’t Raise My Family To Live Off Of The Government” [Sutton Handle Factory]. Arkansas Gazette, 10-16-1949.

Faris, Paul. “Ted Richmond.” Ozark Log Cabin Folks. Rose Publishing Co.: Little Rock, 1983.

Field Report: Skirmish at Whiteley’s Mill.” Major James A. Melton, Second Arkansas Union Cavalry, 4-10-1864, Newton County, Arkansas and the Civil War, Ancestry.com.  (accessed 11/2013)

Greenhaw, Clyde. “Exploring a Cave in 1834.” Arkansas Gazette, 2-9-1941.

Haight, Christine. “Sutton Handle Factory: The Beginnings.” Newton County Times, 9-25-1997.

Hanley, Ray and Diane, with the Newton County Historical Society. Images of America: Newton County. Arcadia Publishing: Charleston, SC, 2012.

Hardaway, Billie Touchstone. These Hills, My Home: A Buffalo River Story. Western Printing Co.: Republic, MO, 1980.

Henderson, Shannon. “The Battle of Limestone Valley.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 13, No. 10 (November 1965).

Hogue, Wayman. Back Yonder: An Ozark Chronicle. Minton, Balch and Co.: New York, 1932.

Holland, Richard A. “Ellis & Pearl (McGowan) Holland.” Newton County Family History, Newton County Historical Society: Jasper, 1992.

Holland, Richard A. “Richard Holland.” Newton County Family History. Newton County Historical Society: Jasper, 1992.

Jansma, Harriet. “The Book Man and the Library: A Chapter in Arkansas Library History.” Arkansas Libraries, Vol. 39 (December 1982).

Johnson, Russell T. “Dogpatch USA.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 11/2013)

Jones, Melissa L. “Patching up Dogpatch.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 2-19-2007.

Lackey, Daniel Boone. “Cutting and Floating Red Cedar Logs in North Arkansas.”  Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XIX, No. 4 (Winter 1960).

Lackey, Walter F. “Historical Notes” [lead mining]. Newton County Times, 8-11-1983.

Lackey, Walter F. History of Newton County, Arkansas. S of O Press: Point Lookout, MO, 1950.

Lair, Dwain. “Parthenon Gym Gets New Life From Arkansas.” Harrison Daily Times, undated [1999].

Leith, Sam A. “Diamond Cave—Jasper’s Ace Attraction.” Ozarks Mountaineer, February 1957.

“Logan, Coy. “This I Remember, As It Was Told To Me.” Carroll County Historical Society, Vol. 2, No. 3 (June 1957).

Martin, Meredith. “Three Big Days, Three Big Nights, and One Petrified Indian Baby: Stories from Lurton, Arkansas.” Mid America Folklore, Vol. 28, No. 1-2 (2000).

Mays, Armon. “The Buffalo As A River Of Commerce.”  Marshall (AR) Mountain Wave, 1-28-1985.

McCamant, Richard E., and Dwight Pitcaithley. “National Park Service Protects Buffalo River.” Harrison Daily Times, 7-4-1986.

McGeeney, Ryan. “JPs get earful of yeas, nays on hog farm.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 3-6-2013.

McKnight, Edwin T. Zinc and Lead Deposits of Northern Arkansas. U.S. Department of the Interior, Geological Survey, U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington D.C., 1935.

Mosby, Joe. “Before the Buffalo Became ‘Aluminum Conveyor Belt.’” Arkansas Gazette, 6-17-1984.

Neal, Joseph C. Mining the Mountains: Pettigrew and Ponca in the Era of Zinc. Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, early 1980s.

Newton County Action Team. Pathways through Newton County, late 1990s.

Newton County Historical Society. “Diamond Cave: A lost Newton County gem.” Newton County Times, 7-21-2010.

Newton County Times. “A Century After Being Pushed West Elk Are Coming Home.” Mid 1980s.

Newton County Times. “Chamber of Commerce holds history of Newton County.” 6-23-2005.

Newton County Times. “Early Stories in the Newton County Times” [REA high-power line]. 12-12-2012.

Newton County Times. “Historic courthouse at center of festival.”  6-26-2003.

Newton County Times. “Historical Notes” [Highway 7].  6-1-1989.

Newton County Times. “History of Parthenon Academy revisited.”  9-29-2005.

Newton County Times. “Parthenon Preparing to Restore Old Gym.” 2-17-2000.

Newton County Times. “Sale of Diamond Cave to Texas Corporation Announced.” 9-4-1995.

Newton County Times. “Sawmilling, Logging Help Phillips Stay on Farm.” 5-31-1984.

Newtonian. Newton County Academy: Parthenon, 1922.

Ozarks Mountaineer. “Arkansas’ New Parkway—Highway 7 a Scenic Wonder.” Vol. 5, No. 4 (February 1957).

Perkins, J. Blake. “The Arkansas Tick Eradication Murder: Rethinking Yeoman Resistance in the ‘Marginal’ South.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. LXX, No. 4 (Winter 2011).

Phelps, John E. “Skirmish in Limestone Valley, part 1 and part 2.” The War of the Rebellion: A Compilation of the Official Records of the Union and Confederate Armies, Vol. XXXIV, eHistory, OSU Department of History  (accessed 11/2013)

Pierce, Arthur. “Historical Notes” [Newton County Academy]. Newton County Times, 9-1-1988.

Pitcaithly, Dwight. “Zinc and Lead Mining Along the Buffalo River.” Arkansas Historical Quarterly, Vol. XXXVII, No. 4 (Winter 1978).

Playgrounds in Arkansas. “Diamond Cave, Newton County.”  Ozark Playgrounds Association: Joplin, undated [1920s].

Pruitt, Lisa R. “Law and Order in the Ozarks (Part LXXXV): Dogpatch lawsuit finalized.” (accessed 11/2013)

Putthoff, Flip. “Buffalo would be different today without Compton.” Morning News of Northwest Arkansas, 11-8-1999.

Rodman, Mike. “Residents crusade to erase Dogpatch U.S.A.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 2-5-1994.

Rogers, L. M. R. “Orr Scout Camp—Wilderness Paradise in Arkansas.” Ozarks Mountaineer, Vol. 4, No. 2, (September 1955).

Rural Arkansas. Untitled article about Kathryn Wheeler [rural electrification]. May 1984.

S. 2125 (98th): Arkansas Wilderness Act of 1984.”  (accessed 11/2013)

Shiloh Museum of Ozark History. “Serving Our Clients: Rural Relief in 1930s Newton County.”

Sims, Scarlett. “State seeks to improve Arkansas 7.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 5-31-2011.

Smith, David A. Lead-Zinc Mineralization in the Ponca-Boxley Area, Arkansas. University of Arkansas-Fayetteville, 1978.

Smith, George S. “Capp to Open Dogpatch.” Baxter (Mountain Home, AR) Bulletin, 5-16-1968.

Smith, Kenneth L. “Highest Cliff in All Arkansas.” Arkansas Democrat, 12-6-1959.

Smith, Kenneth L. “The Seven Kettles—Actually There Were Eight—And the Confederates Put Them to Good Use.” Arkansas Gazette, 11-20-1959.

Spence, Hartzell. “Modern Shepherd of the Hills.” Saturday Evening Post, 11-8-1952.

Stewart-Abernathy, Leslie. “Cherokee.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas (accessed 3/2020).

Stroud, Raymond B., et al. Mineral Resources and Industries of Arkansas. U.S. Department of the Interior, Bureau of Mines, U.S. Government Printing Office: Washington D.C., 1969.

Suter, Mary. “Rural Electrification.” CALS Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 12/2013)

Teter, Rhonda. “Newton County Academy.” Newton County Times, 9-7-2011.

Treiber, Peggy. Newton County slide show, produced on behalf of the Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, 6/2/1989.

“Tumbling Tumbleweeds” thread [re Jubilation T. Cornpone statue].  (accessed 11/2013; no longer available 3/2020)

“Twilight Trail an Eerie Place,” unidentified and undated news clipping (1950s). Shiloh Museum research files.

Walkenhorst, Emily. “C and H Hog Farms takes state buyout; $6.2M deal cut to preserve Buffalo River.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 6-14-2019.  (accessed 3/2020)

Wallworth, Adam. “Graze anatomy: Do elk crowd cattle?” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 5-9-2010.

Wallworth, Adam. “Newton County signs in sight.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette 4-5-2012.

Wallworth, Adam. “Residents hear options on cutting elk numbers.” Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, 7-14-2010.

Whayne, Jeannie. “Early Twentieth Century, 1901 through 1940.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas. (accessed 11/2013)

Wilson, Ruth. “Elk returning to native habitat.” Arkansas Gazette, 2-11-1985.

Wood, Mary. “Ozark-St. Francis National Forests.” Encyclopedia of Arkansas.  (accessed 12/2013)

 

NEWSLETTER